Brand new high pressure pump with less than 3 hours run time. Baldor 240v motor on a 2400 GOD sea recovery. Pump hums, doesn’t build any pressure and turns pretty slowly when observing the coupling thru the mounting flange. I can hear a change in sound from the generator. If left on for more than a few second, it shuts down. I uncoupled the pump from the motor. Pump turns fine by hand with as one resistance but it s not seized motor spins up fast without the pump. I am wondering if one capacitors isn’t bad. There are three capacitor in the box. Never tested any and before following some directions found on YouTube I figured I d ask here. Yes I have a fluke capable of reading uF of course this happens on day two of a month long trip to the Exumas... not quite dead in the water as right before leaving I listened to that little voice and installed a back up 800gpd SeaWater pro.
It did work for 3 hours? Old pump on board? I can put a used one together this evening and ship it out in the morning.
R U sure it isn't a 230V 50Hz motor? I can't read all the yellow label on the box, but it does show 230VAC at its top. Anyway, the symptoms you describe indeed suggest a bad running (not starting) capacitor. Not sure of why there should be 3, though.
No the 16 year old belt driven pump was trashed. It is 240v 60hz going to test the capacitors, easier to ship and replace than a 150 lbs pump
Standing by. I have a new kit to install on the Cat Pump. Just have not installed it knowing this was a spare pump that was just going to sit.
You might be unable to spot a defective run capacitor with just a multimeter. Easier to just replace it and see what happens - it's not a big investment anyway! If you pull the capacitors out of their brackets and post pics of their labels, we can see who's who. Don't forget to discharge them, after detaching the wires!
I pulled the two capacitors and tested them. They re both within acceptable range 229 MFD range 216-259 and 40 MFD range 40 MFD +- 6% The third thing in the box isn’t a capacitor but a switch.
Call the sales guy. Failure in 3 hours is a warranty issue. What can they do to keep a customer happy? Find a replacement close by? Help with shipping you another one? How is your second RO system running?
The back up is fine, but only 36gph Christmas week... installer is out of town but got back to me quickly about testing the capacitors. His supplier is closed till next week.
Well now it s working. Reinstalled the capacitors and tried it.... started right up. Odd. All the connectors were nice and tight when I pulled them. We ll see
I hate bugs like this. I can never trust it till I find a problem that I know was the problem. Intermittent does not fix it self. Fingers cross for you.
I know.... it did that a couple of months ago, first time I tried using it. Two days later when tech came it was fine... I wonder if a capacitor can fail intermittently. Or maybe that switch which controls the capacitors
Tell me more about that switch, Like a starter relay on an A/C compressor? Manual on/off? Pressure activated? It is a cap started motor, so I do not think it has a swinging weight switch on the motors shaft,, or does it? Intermittent does not fix it self. Only luck keeps things going like this.
I posted a picture earlier but low res and hard to read the label. It has four terminals which are connected to either capacitor and one line in. Here is a clearer picture. I know issues rarely fix themselves
Like a compressor, a start relay. Just it looks like a cap in that bake-light package. https://www.witmermotorservice.com/477205015U03-Stearns-SINPAC-Electronic-Switch/item/2VR50-310 Amazon had them. If the motor starts, don't turn it off. Ease up on the pressure to reduce noise and ACv current draw, just don't turn it off.
And didn't he mention that a multimeter test with no load on a capacitor is as reliable as tossing a coin? Based on your latest findings, two things are clear and another remains a question mark: The two clear things are that the motor is fine, and whenever it doesn't run it's due to a faulty electrical supply. The question mark is about whether the culprit is the run capacitor or some other parts of the circuit, like the switch you mentioned. Now, I have no clue about what that switch is for and how it works, but the 40 MDF run capacitor (which I envisaged to be defective already in my post #3) is something I could buy for less than 10 Eur in any electrical store here, so I'd be surprised if you couldn't do the same anywhere in the US. In other words, it's a no brainer - just replace it and chunk the old one in the garbage. I bet that the problem will not reappear. Of course, if instead it would, you should look into that switch first, whatever it's meant for. Hard to comment that without an electrical scheme, though.
The closest decent electrical store is 250nm away... going to get replacement capacitor and switch ordered and brought in by the next people coming in two weeks. Shipping them here is a major PITA