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Winter storage/blocking question Ocean 55

Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by jet55, Oct 17, 2018.

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  1. jet55

    jet55 New Member

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    Storing with a new yard this year. Does anyone have the recommended blocking procedure for an 1988 Ocean 55?
  2. justold

    justold Member

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    look in your owner manual . I have a 38 SS and t is very specific about blocking locations . I don't know about the 55' but the 38 has a foam filled keel and it is easily damaged .
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    When in doubt, the more blocks the better.
    Find the graving plan for your hull. It offer best strap lifting points and best block and pad requirements.

    Oh, take lots (LOTS) of pictures for your insurance company, including the ground they place the stands and blocks..
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    and put 3' 6x6" blocks under your rub rail a little bit where the front slings go. On a 1987 63' Ocean SF that I managed, if we didn't it would crack and pop all of the varnish on the toe rail for 6' on each side because the hull would flex inward so much.
  5. Trinimax

    Trinimax Senior Member

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    Hi Jet

    I have attached the blocking instructions that I got from ocean a few years ago when I had the same question for my 1989 38 ft. This drawing is for a 42, but I see the instructions go for a range of larger sizes.

    hope this info is helpful

    Attached Files:

  6. jet55

    jet55 New Member

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    Thanks guys. I work at the dealership where it is being stored and they were extremely careful. Extra, extra blocking and stands and she is sitting pretty.
  7. Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Take some photos of how it's presently blocked and replicate that at your new yard?
  8. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Hey Trinimax , Thanks for the Drawing! That's hard to come by. I have an 81' 42' sunliner. I just printed it out and will put it on my boat.
  9. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    You want to typically have blocks on the fwd and aft engine room bulkheads, the transom corners on stands, and a few bulkheads or transverse frames ahead of the engine room bulkhead. A couple of stands fwd in chines that are supported by bulkheads.
    The worst thing you can do is to put blocks or stands in between bulkheads or transverse frames, as you are pushing up on an unsupported panel.
    The travel lift slings should be wider then the beam of the boat so you do not pinch the sheer/rubrail or pop out a port light. You may have to put blocks where the slings meet the chine and the sheer/rub rail to avoid this squeeze. This is an issue with boats that have relatively narrow chine beams versus their rub rail beam or have a a lot of flair.
  10. Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    I leave my 60,000 lbs in the water year around for all the reasons above. IMO, I don't care how well you block a heavier boat, there will be distortion. These things were designed to ride on their whole bottoms, not just points. BTW, if the travel lift doesn't have the width and the slings must be blocked outward, you're at the wrong yard. They used to do that for extruded wood chines, but not much any more. If the boat doesn't fit comfortably in the slings you risk "squeezing" it and causing compression damage. The bottoms may be full glass but most modern hulls are cored. And don't rely on that cored deck for lateral strength either.

    I also find that being in the water, moderates the daily temperature change on the inside. Freezing at night, warm sun during the day. During the coldest months I use my engine heaters and can maintain 50+ in the engine room, that warmth weeps up to the living areas.
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2018
  11. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Ahh...I do miss the good old marine rail way...Johnson Brothers in Bay Head N.J. had around four or five until the 1980s..that's the way to haul a boat. But a big deal to slide the boat off the rail car via wood blocks all greased up and set boat onto a cradle or wood stands if you planned to stay out for a bit. The big railway supported the keel at many locations and did not put the "squeeze" on you hull and rub rail like slings do.
    Also many a boat over the years has been dropped by the sling type lift .
    My yard dropped a 42' footer just after they put MY 42' footer in a day or two before !....one of the slings broke due to weathered/stress/old age. They looked ok , not frayed or ripped up, but just lost their strength.

    Not sure of the not sure how long slings need to be changed out to keep up there ratings, but it always makes me nervous.
  12. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Second that, block heaters are a Detroit Diesel’s best friend!
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yep. Were in South Georgia (Jax FL). It's amazing how those block heaters keep the whole boat warm.
    I'm a wimp when it comes to cold. Don't speak Spanish so I'm as far south as I can go. Our electric bill is near zip vs our summer cooling bill.

    Before block heaters, just drop a couple of 40 - 60W trouble lights under the oil pans.
    Amazing how well that works to keep those blocks warm.
  14. Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    That drawing may not be applicable to your boat? Dunno