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teak covering boards

Discussion in 'Post Yacht' started by jerryd, Apr 3, 2012.

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  1. Pascal, Apr 7, 2012
    #21
    Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I used cetol light and clear before natural became available; it was fine on rails. I switched to Bristol almost 2 years ago and find it much better looking. No sanding between coats like cetol and a varnish like appearance. Got almost 2 years out of it.
  2. captbluewater, Apr 8, 2012
    #22
    captbluewater

    captbluewater New Member

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    Semco has several colors but if you want the newly sanded look go with natural color base. If someone scratches it it easly can be touched up. A gallon will last you about a yr.
  3. Davidoc, Apr 9, 2012
    #23
    Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    Back to natural?

    HI guy's, I was reading all of your posts on restoring your covering boards and have been thinking of removing my Awlgrip paint (that needs to be repainted) and restoring my covering boards to the natural teak. Many of you will think I'm crazy but I think I would like to give it a shot.

    Has anybody done this project and if so, what is the best way to get the Awlgrip off and prep the wood?

    Thanks

    Dave
  4. Capt J, Apr 9, 2012
    #24
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Try a heat gun and a sharp putty knife.......Heat the awlgrip up and see if it will peel off with the putty knife. If not, you could try a marine stripper for awlgrip (be extremely careful not to get it on anything else). If that doesn't work, you could always sand it off.......
  5. jerryd, Apr 9, 2012
    #25
    jerryd

    jerryd Member

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    Hi Dave,
    In removing the sikkens cetol I used a heat gun and a pull scraper. The putty knife will try to remove some wood also, not good. Slow square pulls did a fine job, no gouges. Use the putty knife along the covering board and the super structure. The pull scraper can't get up to the edge with out hitting the fiberglass at that point.
    I used bleach, water (50/50) and dish soap today to wash down my stripped covering boards. Will keep you updated with the out come.
  6. chesapeake46, Apr 10, 2012
    #26
    chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    Heat gun and Red Devil 3010 scraper works well too. You need to keep it sharp though so have a file handy.
    If using Cetol the instructions are that you use bleach to kill the bacteria on raw wood.
    Between clear coats, light sanding wiped off with a lintless rag dampened with alcohol will pick up the dust and leave no residue to speak of.
  7. mwwhit1, Apr 10, 2012
    #27
    mwwhit1

    mwwhit1 Senior Member

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    Dave, I attempted to remove the paint from the 1/2 round trim around the house. I found the grain in teak is deep and it would have required a ton of sanding to get all the white out so ended up repainting. You may have to sand the covering boards down so much to remove all traces of the paint that some screw heads now show through and you are redrilling\plugging. Still worth a try.
  8. Davidoc, Apr 10, 2012
    #28
    Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    Awlgrip removal on teak

    Thanks a lot guy's. You have kept my motivation up to give it a shot. I love the teak. The heat gun sounds best to me. I have stripped varnish but never Awlgrip. I will let you know how she comes out.

    Dave
    OUTPOST
  9. jerryd, Apr 11, 2012
    #29
    jerryd

    jerryd Member

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    Update,
    After stripping and washing with bleach mixture many little miss spots showed up. Rescraped with pull scraper, heat gun and putty knife. Washed with mixture again will see what tomorrow brings. The bare teak still has the color of wood, maybe a stronger solution of bleach is needed?
    Jerryd
  10. RT46, Apr 11, 2012
    #30
    RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    i have two part varnish on my teak that looks great but it is starting to wear in some spots and will have to be redone this year.

    I have the teak brows and toe rails also.

    Funny, but I have considered awlgripping the teak because it seems easier and less maint than varnish.

    does anybody still have the rear bulk head varnished on thier Post?

    I know most have been awlgripped to math the gelcoat.
  11. chesapeake46, Apr 12, 2012
    #31
    chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    Hi,
    The freshly sanded teak will have an orangeish (? ) color until it fades, if you leave it natural or until you put some type of coating on it
    It won't be silver or gray until it fades.
  12. Capt J, Apr 12, 2012
    #32
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    If I remember correctly, there is a product out there called "bleach it" or something along those lines, that will take all of the coloring out of the teak.......I saw Merritt's using it a long time ago.
  13. Capt J, Apr 12, 2012
    #33
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    If I remember correctly, there is a product out there called "bleach it" or something along those lines, that will take all of the coloring out of the teak.......I saw Merritt's using it a long time ago.

    You can also use Oxalic acid to bleach wood.
  14. jerryd, Apr 13, 2012
    #34
    jerryd

    jerryd Member

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    Thanks Capt J,
    I do know about Oxalic acid wood bleach $7.99 lb at the hardware store. I does raise the grain though. I might give it a try this weekend.
    thanks jerry
  15. coastalgeorge, Apr 16, 2012
    #35
    coastalgeorge

    coastalgeorge New Member

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    HEY JERRY' how did the teak come out? And were you able to launch Sunday, weather was sure on your side. Hope it all goes well and will contact you privately to meet you at your vessel.Thanks again for your help.
    George
  16. jerryd, Apr 16, 2012
    #36
    jerryd

    jerryd Member

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    Well George, I didn't get to the oxalic acid this weekend. The teak looks good. Spent the day hooking up the water, ice marker, etc, etc. Call me anytime.
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