Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Beau, Apr 14, 2019.
Thanks for the info. The grease rec seems counter to many of the other posts?
Sorry I don't understand.
The replacement of the drain plug w/ a grease Zerk, was adamantly rejected by the Seacock manufacturer because of damaging the seal when I discussed this with them over the telephone.
The other posts also identify the possibility of seal damage and their "seat of the pants" solution to avoid that damage.
The concern about pressurized grease damaging the seal has been consistent throughout this topic.
My solution to clean (remove crud), then lubricate with grease the stem and stem seal washers, followed by proper tightening of the gland nut, has not been counter to other posts, because that solution has only been presented by me.
Does your seacock valve match mine, or is a different manufacturer and / or style? What seacock valves are used on your vessel?
I read the advice as saying open the seacock half way to avoid seal damage? There's even discussion about different grease to use?
Yes, it is the decision of the reader about following that "seat of the pants" advice.
There is very, very, very low friction from moving a highly-polished sphere within a slippery matching plastic cavity. If that path is chosen, please report on the results of forcing high-pressure grease between the very tight fit of that soft plastic part and the hard stainless part.
Or, the lever stem gland nut may be tightened so tightly that rotational motion may be prevented, or loose enough for easy movement w/o leaking.
Here is a reply warning about the possibility of high-pressure grease damaging the seal and another reply describing the futility of replacing the drain plug w/ a grease Zerk to force high-pressure grease between that hard, highly polished stainless sphere and that soft, slippery plastic cavity.
Holy crow wingless you are getting bashed here....not regarding the hot linked photos...but the photos were/are great! You and I have the same cocks ! Lol, no pun intended. Mine are working fine from 1981, but I did ring off the handle on one down to the stud flush with the body...with a whack of a hammer trying to get that last tinny bit shut...live and learn right?
Your third comment says it all, the gland nut whether on the front or back of the through bolt/stud must be tightened just right to where you get no leaks and smooth handle movement. All the grease in the world won't help until you readjust the gland nut or backing nut like the old WC sea cocks.
I know PB Blaster penetrating oil sprayed on the sea cock a day before will help things out, including loosening the gland nut for adjustment.
Any way great post and info.
My gland nuts have been in place for 20 years??
Hi Beau. Just noticed your post about the sea cocks I have the same boat as you. Anyway I took off the crash pump intake stuff and removed the crash intake valve and got some outboard motor gear oil in the tube and inserted and squeezed in the elbow above the closed sea cock and it ran down and seaped thru on the ground a little Then went outside under boat and sprayed oil up in thru Hull after taking screen off. Then developed system of excersizing valve and it worked
Thanks Dan. I loosened them mechanically by moving them back and forth a 100 ? times. I'm in the water except for short hauls every other year which is due this spring. I'll work on them then... Happy and healthy New Year.