Shore Power/Bank 2 Issues

Yes, the number of the nearest licensed marine electrician before you burn your entire boat down (replaced 30amp breaker with toggle switch ). Otherwise you can start checking with a multimeter from the breaker on, but honestly this is beyond your scope of abilities and dangerous.

What Marinas are in Toledo that lets Carvers in? We may need to warn the neighbors another Darwin candidate could be close by..
F I

+1. (Don't like eliminating a breaker). But I'd check the shore power cords first. Reverse them and see if the problem changes sides.

Lets fan the smoke.. Plug something else into a fire trap.
Another F I

What makes you think a fire is imminent? He's been plugged in. Until he exceeds 30 amps he should be fine. If he switches the cords and that turns out to be the problem he just needs to (have an electrician) reinstall the breaker.

Shannon, Sounds like you brought us in midway through the 2nd act. Did you check the juice at the breaker before you pulled it? If there wasn't juice there your problem is most likely the connection outside or the cord. If there was you just had a bad breaker. Why eliminate the breaker instead of swapping it for a new one? I've seen a lot of 30 amp cords with a little lip for weather protection that prevented them from fitting some pedestals. Your fix could be as simple as giving it a trim.

And your telling him to swap cables and plug in again.
Takes a real SFB not to see the problem here.

Hold on. Straining my memory here. Do you even have a 2nd shore power cord on that boat? Other than the galley and a/c what else on that uses a.c.? Any chance you have a picture of your panel?

Oh do tell. What is his problem? Because I have a feeling that it's very simple. As for any fire hazard, if the toggle is rated for the load he should have no problem unless there's a surge. My advice is get the breaker back in and then think KISS.

BTW Ralph, I've been away from YF for awhile. Have things changed? We used to welcome new members to YF, not call them stupid or mock the boat they chose.

If their is anything that is shorted on the boat, when he plugs in the shorepower cord, there is no break TO TRIP and disconnect the electric service, IE instant electrical fire.

Absolutely "IF" he had a short, except that he's already had it plugged in and didn't have a fire. I happen to think that he may just not be familiar with his panel. That's an entry level boat.

BTW Shannon you might find this helpful https://www.carveryachts.com/support/owners-guides/
To start with your boat is apparently a 1984 model (which would have come out in 1983).

I'm back to ensure skippy123 has not killed you yet and you don't have a new kinky hair do, or worse, your dock did not suddenly disappeared last night.
Your problem is the black wire on the inside if the ships service inlet connect has fried.
So, Before these bad things happen, go find a proper marine tech to correctly fix it for you.

I turned off last night when one non marine electrical person was trying to help another non marine electrical person.

A nice message to the both of you kids; You can die messing with these wires if you have no clue what your doing.
Obviously, you both don't have a clue.

Oh, Welcome to YF. Some of us care about your life. Don't bypass a breaker with a switch and we will be more open to talk with you.

Replacing breakers with toggle switches is why boats go up in flames...

Clearly you do not know enough about electrical system to trouble shoot this issue. I m all for helping out new members and fellow boaters but shorepower isn’t something to mess with especially when no info is given like type of shore power.

The problem with attempting to remotely troubleshoot an electrical issue on a 35 year old boat is that nobody knows what has been modified in the past.

mine thing that was not mentioned although it may be irrelevant on an 1984 boat is the breaker or fuse installed near the shorepower inlet. It is mandatory when the inlet is more than 8’ from the main panel breaker. If the breaker or one of the fuses is bad, you could have power on one leg and not the other one

also, it would help if we knew what kind of shore power we are talking about. Single 30amp? Dual 30 amp? 125/250-50? Although that s unlikely on a boat that small. Single 125/50 maybe which was common back then?

If you're referring to my post clearly you shouldn't be messing with electrical systems since you don't know how to read.
"+1. (Don't like eliminating a breaker)"
"needs to (have an electrician) reinstall the breaker"
"My advice is get the breaker back in"

BTW, in case nobody has noticed it appears that after being mocked and ridiculed for trying to learn from us Shannon has decided to stay silent and maybe seek advice from another forum where he will feel more welcome.

A very common mistake boaters new to this Carver system make is to not realize that there's a toggle switch that has to be switched over to check each line, and I believe (but could be wrong since I haven't been on a Carver in 10 years) the meter will stay down if there's no draw (a/c and stove are off). ,Another common mistake they make is to not securely connect the shore power cords due to the lip I mentioned earlier. Changing the breaker over to a toggle switch is clearly a mistake most likely attributable to over-thinking the situation since he states that he's new to the boat and it was working fine when he laid it up just after purchasing it at the end of last season, something it seems that most responders to his question also did.

And actually replacing breakers with toggle switches is not why boats go up in flames. When boats go up in flames due to electrical issues it's because the circuit got overloaded and the breaker failed or there was a short. Based on the fact that I've never heard of someone switching out a breaker with a toggle I don't think it's a very common occurrence.

Or maybe she is doesn't like being called "he."

Absolutely "They" it is.