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SeaRecovery Watermaker & Dripless shaft seal

Discussion in 'Props, Shafts & Seals' started by CSkipR, May 24, 2011.

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  1. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2008
    Messages:
    934
    Location:
    New Smyrna Beach, Fl
    It looks like I need to replace the electric motor on the SeaRecovery low pressure water maker. Can someone tell me how to remove the electric motor? After unbolting the 4 bolts that hold the electric motor onto the pump what is the next move. Do I need to take apart the pump section to remove the motor? Thanks

    Also have another question. On Sunday about 30 miles offshore the Man engines slowed down with an oil pressure alarm. Opened hatch to a bunch of oil. I am sure its the engine oil cooler gasket on the starboard engine since the port blew out two years ago. Flawed design on the CR900 Mans. My question is when we idled back at 800rpm on the one engine will the dripless shaft seal on the engine not running overheat and have to be replaced. The boat is a 05 Cabo 43.
    Thanks again.
  2. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

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    In some cases the complete "wet" end of the pump will just slide off the motor shaft after you unbolt it from the motor. In others you have to open the wet end up and take the impeller off the shaft first. You'll just have to see which style you have.

    I would think you would have done no damage to the seal running at low RPM like that without the extra coolant water going to it. But give it a good once over after you get the engine up and running again.
  3. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Do you have pictures of the electric motor and the make/model?

    I too don't think it would hurt it at low speeds. If you did, it would be dripping right now...............in the future wrap a rope around the shaft opposite of the direction it's turning like wrapping a piling on the dock and tie it off to something in the engine room.
  4. Sea Gull

    Sea Gull Member

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    Aug 3, 2010
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    Location:
    CT
    can't help you on the watermaker, but had to chime in on the engine issue.

    I have the same engines and have blown both oil coolers (last season only 20 hours apart). You are right that it is a flaw with these engines. I ran about 10 hours on one engine to get out of the path of a hurricane with no issue, but I have cross over water supply so that the lame shaft seal gets water from the running engine. The other issue is freewheeling of the transmission for that length of time. I know there are devices available to do this, but without taking a swim I have found no easy - on the fly- way to stop the prop from spinning.
  5. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    What about a locking chain wrench or Pipe Wrench on the shaft that can be stopped from turning by being up against the engine bed etc - both of which should only be applied when the shaft is stationary.

    Once you get going the load on the stopped prop is pretty constant and there will not be any pulsing or back and forth movement to knock the tool off.
  6. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

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    1,434
    Location:
    Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale FL

    That's they way I've done it in the past. Just used Vise Grips on the coupler nuts. Or used the Vise Grip chain wrench on the shaft. You can either tie them off or sometimes if you have a couple of them you can just wedge them against the hull or stringer.
  7. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2008
    Messages:
    934
    Location:
    New Smyrna Beach, Fl
    Thanks guys great input on the stationary prop. Next time will tie it off, use vise grips or chain vise to hold it. I do have a large pipe wrench on board but didnt think to use it.
    Regarding the watermaker I talked to SeaRecovery and they took me through the removal and replacement of the electric motor. You do have to remove part of the pump housing to remove the electric motor.
    Thanks