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Sea Ray 370 Sedan Bridge

Discussion in 'Sea Ray Yacht' started by Piper, Jan 29, 2016.

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  1. Piper

    Piper New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2014
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Kingston , Ontario
    Hello everyone, I'm a new member considering the purchase of what appears to be a reasonably well maintained 1996 Sea Ray 370 Sedan. I haven't made any offer yet, and of course any offer would be contingent on a thorough structural survey, and a mechanical survey.

    While doing my research, some interesting questions arose, and I would enjoy hearing any comments from other more experienced members that may have experience with this model.

    First: Vessel weight
    The spec sheet show s a 370 sedan has a dry weight of only 15000lbs. In comparison to several other boats in the 36-39ft range, the 370 weighs considerably less. The others seem to be heavier and range from 19000- 25000lbs. I 'm like to know how this model, being so much lighter, and with it's modest 12"4"" beam would perform in rough water. Would it bob like a cork? Would it tend to cut through the chop better?

    Second: Engine access
    This would be my first Sea Ray, and from the various mid 30ft models I've looked at, it seems Sea Ray likes to squeeze their engines pretty close together. The 370 has only about 5-6 inches between manifolds. I'm just wondering how difficult or easy it is to change spark plugs, change oil, reach for drain plugs in the block etc.

    Third: Radar arch
    In order to accommodate my indoor storage facility, the radar arch would most likely have to be lowered. I'm wondering if I could rotate it into a more horizontal position, then support it from the cockpit with a couple of long vertical 2x4's. I'm suspecting there are approx 6-8 internal electrical cables in the arch. Would there be enough slack to allow the Arch to tilt? Anyone have any idea how heavy the arch will be? How is the arch attached? Has anyone ever tried this?

    As I've said , this would be my first Sea Ray. I'd be interested in hearing if there are any "hidden areas", or "peculiar features" or "weak spots" that I should pay particular attention to.

    Thank you in advance
    Piper
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Messages:
    5,097
    Location:
    Miami, FL
    Weight does help going thru as long as the hull is sharp enough to cut thru. You need to do a sea trial to see if it works for you and the conditions you are likely to encounter.

    6" between engines? I would never buy a boat with engines that close,maintenance is a nightmare, will cost you three times more than it should. It s mot just the spark plugs and dipstick, but check access to raw water pump (to change the impeller), belts, etc.. Is it Vee drive? If so does it have conventional stuffing box or dripless? How is the access. If conventional and hard to reach chances are they have been ignored are probably throwing salt water under the engines... If dripless you still need to be able to reach them for inspection or maintenance.

    Same with generator. Sea Ray has a history of making them very hard to reach. If you can't access the impeller belt and plugs without spending 20' wiggling towards the Genset in a series of crazy yoga positions, forget it...

    As to the arch, you can't know how much slack there is in th wiring until you look.you will need to make some heavy duty stainless steel plates and hinges, and reinforce th glass. doable but not cheap