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Rudder Post Leak

Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by alvareza, Aug 2, 2019.

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  1. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Check out what Buck Algonquin has to offer.
  2. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Leave them dry and empty...
  3. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    Buck Algonquin has a bronze backing plate that seems to be a good fit for the existing rudder posts. The boatyard guys are recommending using G10 bonded to the hull for improved backing plate. Any thoughts on pros/cons of each?
  4. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    I haven’t used G10 off the shelf material but don’t have a problem with an frp backing block as long as the thickness is sufficient - I would go a bit overboard and use 1/2” .

    https://custommaterials.com/g10-material-strong/

    One other comment - I always drill and tap the top of the exposed rudder shaft and screw in a fabricated T-bolt so in case of the rudder arm loosening the entire rudder does not slip through the bearing and drop , leaving a hole in your boat and the subsequent “mayhem”. I have also seen them cross drilled with a dowel in place to prevent the same.
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    A thought not brought up earlier in this thread.
    Look over your hull construction when the post log is out. Is that a real solid and thick hull skin?
    Any fatigue cracks from the log or bolts? When in doubt, back it up.

    It is common for near any underwater hull fitting to have a backing and bolted in. Rudders and struts are under all kinds of pressure and usually have the hull beefed up around these attachment points.

    If I was working on a boat and the hull was not tank built around that area, OR even questioned the strength of that area, I'd install a back plate.

    The G10 panels, built of epoxy and glass under some pressure, offers an excellent backing material. Certainly easier, faster and possibly cheaper, than building up glass as I did years ago.
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    When your projects do kick off, don't forget to post pile of pictures here.
    It will help lots of folks and Ya Know,, I like to watch..:cool:
  7. Boomer

    Boomer Senior Member

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    Great story here...need to check mine soon
  8. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    What is G10? Same as Starboard plastic sheet ?
  9. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    Keep in mind Buck Algonquin has shaft lock collars too, to help keep things in place ... Get my stuff shipped to me from Deep Blue Yacht Supply.
  10. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    If it ain't broke , don't fix it. I've been around a lot of old Oceans , mine being very old, and I've never heard of the rudders falling/ripping out under normal use...put it all back in the way it came out.
    Ocean used Buck Algonquin stuff, just use their plate. Ocean beefed up all areas needed on your boat. I think the yard is trying to build up the invoice with wasted time and materials .
  11. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    It’s layers of frp laminate, more structural than Starboard. See my link on post #24.
  12. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    43ABB714-D523-4407-BB5E-2C90119912F7.png The hull where the rudder mounts is solid fiberglass about 1.5 inches thick. Seems pretty substantial though I don’t really know.

    Picture from the bottom up of the opening with rudder out.
  13. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    The rudder ports were cleaned up like new. The indentation for the rudder port below the hull was larger than the bronze flange so...

    The guys used the ports as molds with thickened epoxy to make the opening a snug fit. They used wax paper to keep the epoxy from adhering to the metal.

    D5E7F6AF-C889-45DF-B3AC-357E389BEFD7.jpeg
  14. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    Below is a picture of the component being dry fit.

    I decided to use the G10 for the backing plate since the hull was rough and bonding it to the hull or leveling for the metal backing was about the same effort.

    A few of the bolts and washers had been sunk into the fiberglass. I suspect to try to stop the slow leak instead of re-bedding.

    I chose a low profile rudder bearing flange drone Tides. It was just thin enough to work without modifying the steering gear or rudder shelf. It does require a much larger hole through the shelf. So the shelf is being reinforce with a G10 plate.
    952428D9-9D5D-4ABD-9E41-767836A3CA2A.jpeg
  15. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    That's the way to do it.
    dancinggator.gif
  16. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Stainless steel bolts with a bronze Rudder Bearing Plate?? Underwater??
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I did not notice that;

    Yea, What PacBlue said....

    Probably $5 for the screw, nuts, washer per screw hole but worth the insurance of it done rite the first time.
    I can see the stainless nut without washer and lock nut so the stainless screw may be temporary anyway.
    Als%20gator.jpg
  18. alvareza

    alvareza Member

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    PacBlue and Captain Ralph both correct. Final assembly seems correct with bronze screws, wagers and nuts. The top pin is back n place as a fail safe to keep rudder from falling out.
    Thank again to everyone for all the advice.

    994F79A8-57EC-4792-8689-3122F44C5E74.jpeg 707BA9EE-9548-4F5B-A88D-398A4F3D4C3C.jpeg
  19. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    This turned into a great project.
    What other projects can we find, to spend your money on?
  20. cleanslate

    cleanslate Senior Member

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    On the last photo, see those little S/S machine screws and nuts coming through the hull; They hold the Ocean Yacht metal of some sort trim tab to the hull. Ocean used S/S on mine.

    While you are out, check them all to see if they are still snug.
    I have a 1981 O.Y. and some of mine are corroded with in the hull. They may look good, but go bad in between. I am replacing some of mine now while I'm out for the winter.