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Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by alloyed2sea, Jan 7, 2005.

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  1. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    Post progress on your wintertime projects here.
    Get free advice and moral support not found elsewhere, eh? :D
    Me? I'm changing out the 37 year old gas & water tanks - this after the water tank "broke out" bottomside this summer. Couldn't imagine what 100+ gals of fuel in the bilge would have been like, and don't ever want to.
    Hey, it gives me a chance to "firm up" the aft deck as well - in preparation for a new TEK-DEK surface layer.
    America - land of opportunities! :D
    Here's the going-in shot:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 17, 2005
  2. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    And a little later....

    ...., the new starboard gas tank!
    (116 vs 110 gals/original). :D

    Attached Files:

  3. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    And later...

    ...new port gas and rear water tanks. :p
    Atlantic Coastal Welding did the job - nice work ($2900).

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 17, 2005
  4. YachtForums

    YachtForums Administrator

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    Most projects turn out to be bigger than you expect. Kind of like the pics you posted above. :p (reduced 'em to 540 pixels)

    So this is where you've been!
  5. 9lives

    9lives Member

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    I just love seeing major construction sites!

    Did the company that did the welding have to add baffles to the fuel and water tanks? What is the material you used?
    Mark
  6. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    New Tanks

    They're aluminum, fully baffled - and slightly larger than original advertised tanks of 110 gals.
    Water tank had no similar plaque identifying all key variables such as size, but looks exactly the same.
    Had'em made as exact replicas - all the better to fit on the original supports/straps. Kept the thin non-carbonic gasket underneath those straps - just in case (the old ones were galvanized steel).
    Wish us luck - just finished rebuilding the deck supports/framing today - whew!
    Next: new underlayment and then, TEK-DEK !
    (When the next shipment from the UK comes in that is).
    CHeers!
    Eric
    65 degrees here today.
    Bottom paint, then, splash!
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2005
  7. 9lives

    9lives Member

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    65 eh!
    It is still snowing here, but inside it is considerably warmer! Putting the trim tab actuators back into place minus the potentiometer for now. Also refinishing the mahogany head board above the dash. Will wait for more humidity to arrive before I refinish the teak deck. The humidity was down to the low teens for a couple of weeks and humidifier malfunctioned. Now I have the building back to about 38% but that is a long ways from where it needs to be. Good luck on the Tek Dek!
    Mark
  8. kips ahoy

    kips ahoy New Member

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    Lake City, Mn
    Non slip deck, What to use?

    I want to paint my bow deck and would like to have something to keep my butt off the floor.... from slipping :mad: , I have used the interlux stuff however I was hoping for a liitle more grip, any Ideas??

    Also is there a way to get an e-mail for all post not just my posts?

    Kip's Ahoy
  9. YachtForums

    YachtForums Administrator

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    Go to the forum "Chris Craft Roamer Discussion", so that all the threads of this particular discussion are in your window. Next, go the top right hand corner of the NavBar, click on "Forum Tools". A window will drop down. Click on "Subscribe to this Forum". The next window will ask your preference on "e-mail notification" (it's a drop down window). Here, you can choose daily or weekly updates.

    You can do this for each forum you want to subscribe to. :)
  10. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    Magic in a can.

    Big easy. "Non-slip" additives come in a little paint can from West Marine.
    When doing my decks last year, I simply added some to my regular Petit White paint and it worked like a charm. Just be sure to mix it thoroughly (my starboard decks are definitely more "non-slip" than port side ones).
    Problem solved. :p
  11. RSheaffer

    RSheaffer New Member

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    St. Croix River, Bayport Marina (MN)
    New tanks


    Eric,

    I can't stop thinking about your speculating on what 100+ gallons of fuel in your bilge would be like .... I sure don't want to find out either!! Since my Riviera is 38 yrs old, with nearly 200 gallon tanks, it's a thought I just can't shake!!!

    Is this a common problem? Is there any way to tell the condition of the water and fuel tanks BEFORE one "breaks through?" Are water tanks more suseptable than the gasoline tanks?

    ....Geeezzzz - - I wish I hadn't heard that story.

    Has the Tek-Dek arrived?
  12. RSheaffer

    RSheaffer New Member

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    Location:
    St. Croix River, Bayport Marina (MN)

    How did the deck painting go? I have a couple of areas that are "bubbling," but the paint hasn't cracked yet (... only a matter of time). Then I'll find myself thinking about the same thing.

    Did you have to scrape any (sand, grind, etc) any, or was the deck in pretty good shape. Did the attached suggestion work out OK? Did you remove and re-caulk the the toe rail?
  13. CaptainRoamer

    CaptainRoamer New Member

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    I'd also like to know if you removed the toe rail! If so, how and how did it go?

    Looks like we'll get one more year out of our decks, then the toe rail will have to be removed and have the decks sand blasted and repainted. We have bubbling.
  14. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    Yikes!

    RS -
    I merely took preventative measures.
    Upon inspection, in the somewhat narrow "venue" that the gas tank intake pipes allowed, my galvanized steel gas tanks looked A-OK. Baffles kept us from making further inspections. Another CC Cdr owner here in the marina changed his tanks, but my mechanic (who did my changeover as well), said his tanks actually looked ok after taking them out.
    I think the big clue is flaking inside - iffin' alot of water gets in, they will eventually start rusting. If you have had any unusual problems getting fuel to the motors - it might be a good sign that "flakes" are getting in the the fuel lines via rust in the tanks. Of course, rust outside the tanks is the big "10-4" on replacement time, but otherwise, you should be ok for a few more seasons.
    Just start planning accordingly, nothing lasts forever.
    My budget was such that I felt it was time.
    New tanks will also help you sell her when itz time as well.
    You should probably just take a good, hard look underneath the tanks as a preventative measure. Tap around with a small headed hammer: if it goes through, well, by all means, run like ****. Otherwise, it passes the test,eh?
    Sorry for the long response, itz a obsessive boater thing.
    ANd, yeah, water tanks must be more susceptible - mine had multiple welds underneath, little to my knowledge.
    Cheers!
    Eric
    PS - Dammit, the TEK-DEK guy is running me around. He has his good reasons (eye surgery) , but naked marine plywood aint gonna cut it.
  15. RSheaffer

    RSheaffer New Member

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    RE: Yikes

    Thanks for the reassuring words. Hadn't really thought about clogging of fuel filters whichwould be a tell-tale sign - and it hasn't happened. Externally, they look fine.

    You're right, nothing lasts forever, but I dred the day when/if I have to rip up my teak aft deck to remove tanks!

    RE: Fresh water ... I do get some residue through the faucets when my tank nears empty, but that's probably perfectly normal. But I wouldn't say it's rust ... just "junk."
  16. kips ahoy

    kips ahoy New Member

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    I tried to rmove tor rail and could not :mad: :mad: The black gooey stuff chris craft put under it holds very very very very well, so I decided to leave on, Refinishing is going well just harder while attached to boat. Tht front deck never had any paint problems just to slippery :eek:
  17. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

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    Toe-to-toe.

    Well, don't forget, toe rails are held down by the black (gray here) gooey stuff AND, surprise(!) brass screws. The bung holes are the clue to their whereabouts - good luck getting those out.
    Have to replace a small section upfront (anchor rash) and don't especially look forward to it.
    Here, tanks are all in, starboard motor has a new cam shaft & carb, and decks are all "wooded" (marine plywood). New thru-hulls (marelon) and insulated couplers underneath the raw water intakes round out the winter projects. Swim platform gets another coat of ZSPAR today.
    Cheers!
    Eric
  18. CaptainRoamer

    CaptainRoamer New Member

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    Can it be removed without destroying it? Would it be easier to have the decks sandblasted around the rail and painted (that seems shady)? Help!
  19. CaptainRoamer

    CaptainRoamer New Member

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    I'll try and get a picture this week coming up of the issue at hand.
  20. kips ahoy

    kips ahoy New Member

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    Yes, I removed all the brass screws. after removing all the bung holes (took several hours) to discover my toe rail was not going anywhere. then replace all brass screws some new and all new bung holes..... :cool: ......then sanding sanding and more sanding and I am now ready for stain.