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Repowering a 54' Donzi Sportfish

Discussion in 'Donzi/Roscioli Yacht' started by DOCKMASTER, Sep 5, 2019.

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  1. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    I'm starting a new thread to cover the Repower of my 1994 54' Donzi (by Rosciolli) Sportfish. Today I formally placed the order for CAT C18 ACERT 1150 hp engines and ZF665A gears. These will replace the existing Detriot 12v92TTA's. In addition to the engines and gears I am also replacing the generators, propulsion controls, oil change system and likely other items as well that make sense while we are torn apart. I'm still making final decisions on some items and will post once I have info.

    To swap engines we have to cut out the salon floor and aft salon bulkhead as there are no hatches. Today we started removal of Settee's, carpet, dining tables, cabinetry and joinery work. We have done our mock ups and laid out the access cuts. The boat is scheduled to be hauled and go into a building on 9/26. I'll document progress and post pictures as we go along.
  2. German Yachting

    German Yachting Senior Member

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    I have been watching the other thread, looking forward to this project.
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    This may be one of the most watched threads on Y F.
    I will look forward to every pic and update.
    Thank you for sharing your passion (and pains) with us.

    ,Ralph
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Is it possible to take the salon window (aft) out and get the engines out that way without cutting the bulkhead?
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I bet he has to cut up the deck under the after bulkhead.
    Been there on another boat years ago.
  6. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    My lead guy has been doing detailed layout and mock up the last few days. The good news is the holes in the deck/engine room ovhd will not need to be as large as we thought. We will separate the engine/gears and have a sequence to be able to get the items in/out along with the gens. By doing this we do not have to touch any of the galley equipment or cabinetry, etc. The window in the aft bhd is not large enough. We will be cutting just above the cockpit freezer and below the flybridge. But will leave enough room for fiberglass overlays going back. I spoke to CAT and they have no issue with us separating the gears from the new engines since they work with us regularly and know our capability. In the attached picture you see the galley island/bar with granite countertop. By reducing the deck hole size this can now stay in place. Boy things sure get ugly in a hurry when you start tearing things apart!

    I should be receiving the final quote from Northern Lights shortly. I am going with the 20kw and 9kw, with sound enclosures, secondary isolation mounts, high output 12v alternators to charge 12v house bank and digital gauge panels.

    I'm also ordering the Reverso GP-806 oil change system. This package is way better than the pump and manifold system original to the boat.

    Now I'm researching the option of using an electric power steering pump to feed the Hynautic steering. The existing system has an engine mounted pump and cooler on each engine. If I can find a suitable electric pump I can eliminate the need for a second set-up on the other engine and will have more flexibility of where to mount things and reduce the number of hoses.

    I'm also considering upgrading my watermaker now too. The existing system is an old modular unit with pumps in different places, a manual control panel in the engine room, and filters in the lazarette. With all the equipment that is being removed I think I may have a good spot for a contained package unit fwd of my stbd fish box. But I would need a remote panel to control it. Any suggestions?

    IMG_3297.JPG
  7. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Seems like I seen this before ). The way in is where you mentioned, that is how they were put in in my boat. We did remove the galley island though. I wish had been documented with photos.
  8. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    I wish you had photos too! :) If memory serves you went to bigger engines. The C18's are near identical to the 12v92's, actually a smidge smaller. On the port side we will decouple the gear, slide the engine fwd until up against the fwd bulkhead, then remove the gear and small gen, then we can slide the engine aft and get it out with the deck hole aft of the island.
  9. captholli

    captholli Senior Member

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    You'll find that the C-18's are a bit taller than your old "V" configured Detroit's. I repowered a vessel in 2016 by removing triple 12 cyl MAN's with no issues space and rigging wise and had everything figured out for the new Cat installs until coming through the aft sliding salon doors with a lifting stinger that the C -18 wasn't going to clear the raised threshold and O/H door valance without wood butchering and engine accessory removals taking place. The rigged C-18s were 10 inches higher vertically coming in than the v-12 MAN units were leaving.


    IMG_0099 (1).JPG imagejpeg_0 (24).jpg
  10. captholli

    captholli Senior Member

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    For clarification, your lift rigging points on the Detroit's are going to be significantly lower in the well of the "V" as opposed to the lifting points on top the straight 6 cyl Cat C-18's and that was a difference that snagged me 9 months after the MAN's came out. I adapted and overcame in the end but I'm assuming that your going to reduce the size of your Detroit's via removing the turbo's , blowers, heads & motor mounts to keep its profile skinny when removing?
  11. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    is there anyway to angle the C 18 sideways possibly or at somewhat of a sideways angle to get it in the hole? While it is tall, it's a narrower motor than the 12v92's
  12. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    The C18’s are approx. 1” shorter than the 12v92’s
  13. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Soon the saws come out and the destruction really begins.
    I like your idea off possibly using a electric pump for your p/s. I have the p/s pump changed to only run off one engine not both like originally designed.

    I have a Spectra watermaker pump and filters installed below sink in cockpit, and the membrane in the starboard lazarette. There is enough room to move the whole watermaker there also
  14. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    I need power steering even if I'm only running one engine. I do long hours of slow speed trolling on one engine only. I wouldn't want to have all those hours be on one side only. So that's why I'm looking at electric so I have only one pump and cooler but it is running regardless of which engine is running. I have to try to figure out how much pressure and flow is needed so I can find the right electric pump.

    I don't have any room under the cockpit sink. We reconfigured that about 5 years ago and made that whole area into a custom tackle center with 10 large drawers. There is quite a bit of room in the Laz fwd of the stbd fish box now that the trolling valve and gear selector actuators and cables all go away. Where do you have the control panel for your watermaker?
  15. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    That is the my problem also. But you still will have steering, just no power assist. But I am differently interested on what you find out about a electric. Have you called Hynautic to see if they offer something?

    My w/m control panel is mounted aft on starboard wall
  16. captholli

    captholli Senior Member

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    Have you considered adding a jog stick / follow up lever system? I removed - upgraded a Simrad A/P pump with a Jastram HFU 360 pump skid that was a bit of overkill for the A/P but gave the vessel instant and effortless jog lever steering and we even had a tethered jog lever that you could walk around with on the F/B or W/H . We didn't need a cooler on this 34 meter vessel because the system didn't work that hard even when in A/P mode in heavy following seas. If that's not an option for you than I'd give Jastram a call concerning an electric hydraulic pump adaptation to your Hynautic system as Jastram is right around the corner from u in B-C and has an excellent engineering staff to work a solution for you.
  17. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    Have you called Hynautic to see if they offer something?

    Not yet. I'm still trying to sort out gear ratio issues with ZF. I no sooner think it is resolved only to find issues with delivery time, discontinued ratios, etc. Hoping to have more info today. Once I get everything set on the big stuff (engines, gears, controls) I'll start on the other items.
  18. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    You may have to consider bumping the ratio near the 2.0 range to get a standard (and readily available) gear.
    Better case for overall performance, worst case for increased out of pocket expenses.
    May be time to look at your struts to see how much bigger in shaft diameter you can go, is there any meat left for a larger Cutlass Bearing, etc. And take a look at how the shaft exits the hull and your shaft log ID, how much clearance to go greater than your existing 2.5" Shaft diameter?
  19. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    I was really hoping to keep the 2.5". I'm currently exploring 1.525:1, 1.757:1 or 1.9:1. I realize the 1.9:1 is probably best option but I'm guessing that drops my safety factor below 3 on the 2.5" ? How much difference will there really be in performance? And, of course, if I change shaft size then I have no choice but to do props as well.
    I know when Donzi 54 repowered he indicated he was able to bore the existing struts and go up to 3" shafts. I don't know about the hull shaft entry? Perhaps Donzi 54 will weigh
  20. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Here's a look at where you where at and going forward:

    Original Installation with 12V-92TA's:

    upload_2019-9-9_12-59-58.png

    CAT C-18 with ZF 665-A gear and 1.757 ratio:

    upload_2019-9-9_13-3-11.png

    And with CAT C-18 and 1.971 ratio:
    upload_2019-9-9_13-5-20.png

    Looks to me you would need at least a 2-3/4" Shaft.

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