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Replacement Cylinders for the aft stowage door, Lazarra LSX

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by CHRIS KELLEY, Jan 4, 2019.

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  1. CHRIS KELLEY

    CHRIS KELLEY New Member

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    I am looking for a replacement cylinder(s) source for the hydraulic cylinders for the aft stowage door at the transom of an LSX, nineties era(?)

    A young yacht services professional came into our shop last December in need of a replacement hydraulic cylinder for his client’s Lazarra LSX yacht. As you may know, Lazarra was an engineer passionate about building quality boats, and in doing so, specially designed many of his own parts – the cylinders in question being one of them.

    (Please see attached photo).

    My interest in this is trying to connect this man with a resource who may know of a marine “bone yard” or yacht scrap yard or “parts jobber” where he might find one or two [ideally two] of these old cylinders.

    Attached Files:

  2. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    You want to find Joey Lazarra. Richards son. I understood he was still supporting the products.
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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  4. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Looking at the picture, a hydraulic cylinder with end travel sender.
    Somewhere on the case (outer tube) should be a part number or din number you can track down to the mfg or custom shop.
    At least, a hydraulic shop should be able to replace the case and the tech can fix the travel sender.

    Next idea is an electric screw lift like;
    http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/products/hatch-lifts
  5. boatpoor

    boatpoor New Member

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    Any good marine hydraulic shop can duplicate these. Gulf Coast Air and Hydraulics in Mobile does our work.
  6. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I dont think Lazzara made those. I will PM you the phone nr of a guy who used to work for Lazzara doing warranty work. He really knows these boats and has done some work on the 2009 84' i ve been running for the a couple of years

    Also Lazzara came with very detailed manual listing pretty much every component used. May want to have him check that
  7. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    How do you release these? Looks like they use a pull pin which may be hard to rig so it can be tripped when hatch is closed... the large forward hatch on the 84 uses a couple of electric lifts which are getting a little weak... but i need something that cna be open manually if needed. The ones we have do not hold th hatch down so two people can lift it manually
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If I remember correctly when they were used as deck and engine hatches, you could pull up against them several inches, reach in and release the hinge pin on the top end.
    All of the weight of the hatch would be on you now but it is open-able.

    It's been many (MANY) years since I worked any style of boat that uses these.
    Mostly express fishing boats.

    Found this;
    http://www.lencomarine.com/index.ph...nco-hatch-lift-specifications?category_id=223
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2019
  9. CHRIS KELLEY

    CHRIS KELLEY New Member

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    One this one from the Lazarra boat, you have to provide 24 V power to the black pigtail at the cap [blind] end to energize an internal solenoid valve enclosed in that cap-end assembly; otherwise, free flow into / out of the cylinder cap [blind] end is denied and the cylinder cannot extend or retract.
  10. CHRIS KELLEY

    CHRIS KELLEY New Member

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    Captain Ralph. Thank you, sir for your hyperlink. I forwarded it to the young man for him to look at.

    Cheers!
  11. CHRIS KELLEY

    CHRIS KELLEY New Member

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    Hi Pascal. You see that black pigtail to the cap end assembly of the cylinder? It provides 24 volts to a normally-closed solenoid operated valve enclosed in that large assembly that inserts up into the cylinder. The cylinder must get this 24 volts to open that [hidden] solenoid valve and allow oil flow, so the cylinder can extend or retract.

    Cheers.
  12. wdrzal

    wdrzal Senior Member

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    Looks like a more robust design is in order ,a closer look would be needed to determine the mode of failure. Either internal pressure or external forces caused the tube failure . Unless you find a cheap exact replacement, which you would expect to fail in the same way eventually. Find a good hydraulic/machine /fabrication shop like already mentioned.

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