Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by Boomer, Jun 2, 2018.
Only 1 zinc? Why 2 holes then? Just curious
Less zinc & zinc waste (zinc flakes, mud, pieces) to block the small HE tubes at the coolers inlet.
Should be no problems on less zinc.
No problems at all if thru hull and cock are bonded.
Ok...I will remove one from the inlet side
And look thru it well..
Ok...I will also remove the hose view the 1st cooler screen to make sure no issues...there is good water flow out the tail pipe
I'm sure it looks good, but you can not tell by eye if 50 GPM or 150 GPM is flowing.
Removed hose and locked at first screen..couple barnacle pieces and some salt residue..cleaned out with coat hanger...took her out saturday..same problem...getting raw water side acid washed today
Follow the raw water from the pump to various components. I had one Detroit where the first stop was the fuel cooler and it was full of broken off zincs. On another Detroit, the raw water pump had a 2" spacer on the intake side and one of it's surfaces was warped and sometimes it allowed the pump to suck air and the motor to overheat and other times it was fine.
Will check if the backflush and acid wash doesn't work
I also had another one where the raw water side was relatively clean and the coolant side of the heat exchanger was completely clogged with sediment.
Thermostat was good...replaced it anyways...heat exchanger to be pulled and boiled down
Make sure the screen/strainer on the outside of the hull is clean. My diver forgot to clean mine and it caused me to overheat.
Bottom cleaner scheduled for next week
Wouldn't be shocked to find pieces of zinc, impeller, etc in the heat exchanger point of entry that's helping to disrupt water flow. Good to put a temp gun on both input and discharge of the heat exchanger to discover temp delta. Compare against opposite engine.
Hi, I'm new to this site. I have a 1988 48ss that I bought a couple years ago. My heat exchanger failed on my starboard engine shortly after I bought it. It all happened pretty fast, didn't realize it until engine started chugging, I looked back and tons of black smoke coming out from exhaust and engine room, I thought we were on fire. Not a good thing. I ended up repowering her with brand new Cummins QSC 8.3-600's. She's really fast now and pretty much mechanically a brand new boat, but it was a lot more expensive than one heat exchanger. Get that sucker looked at quick.
Well, between the backflush (nothing came out) and filling the system with barnacle buster for a few hours, it works great again...ran at speed for hours and she purred the whole time...maybe 5 degree creep under speed but stopped around 190 or so
190 appears way to high at cruise, not convinced the problem has been solved. My temps at cruise are around 175 on both engines. The thing that bugs me is early on you said the turbo hose blew off. I assume that is the approx 2" in raw water hose going into the dump can. That is symptomatic of the dump can being clogged. Not familiar with your aftermarket dump can, but mine had many small diameter holes which would be easy to clog with sea water debris and zincs. Certainly proceed with caution and maybe schedule to look at the can dump over the winter months.
Air side, not the water side
..2 different issues
Yeah still a little to warm, ...did you do the heat exchanger in the tank?
Other wise you may have to do another overnight soak with barnacle buster again. You definitely got some of the junk out on the first soak but you may have to do a second one as I said.
The heat exchanger should look a worlds difference when you get it to the right person to have it cleaned out make sure you use somebody who knows what they're doing with a good reputation.
Agreed...water cooling off in the gulf now...I should have no problem until winter when I pull them to get boiled...i know i am marginal currently but some of our best boating weather is.coming