Need Moral Support

Hi,

In my experience, If the covers are open at the back side against the engine it is actually quite easy to reach in and feel the belt or to see it's condition with a flashlight.

On long trips I have spare belts in place, behind the protective shields and ready to replace the old belt. All I need to do is adjust the support holding the alternator etc and flywheel and put the replacement belt in place, adjust tension, tighten the bolts and back to the trip. As an owner, not an engineer or mechanic I like to have things in place "in case of",
Fact: you replace belts FAR less often than you pass the running engines and exposed dangers.
Just my 2c.

Hi,

That is the truth, also if you setup a routine to replace them on a hours or calendar based routine you will never have one fail unexpectedly.

Obviously the Mfgs. consider it a liability, because it seems each newer motor encloses it tighter and tighter. When they first started covering them they did leave room to get a finger in to check tension, and the edges were visible. That becoming less possible to impossible, especially in cramped engine rooms where your viewing angles are limited.

From your lips to the owner's ears. Many of the boats I run are a one time affair when the owner (who normally runs it himself or uses it as a floating condo) has guests. These engine rooms hopefully get seen by a mechanic at Spring commissioning and for winterization, after a breakdown and when I take it out. The rest of the time that hatch never gets opened. Remember, many of these people think their boat is something akin to a house and a car.
Another problem is time. I was once coming up the East River against the current toward Hell Gate (many of you know the situation) transporting new owners when a belt broke. I wouldn't call the owners anything close to competent, but they were my only crew. Fortunately the previous owner did leave another belt but even that took precious seconds to find. The last thing I would want in that situation is anything that would increase my time down in the engine room like removing a cover. Seconds off the helm felt like hours. Fortunately this was an older boat with no cover, and it was a quick change.

Best of luck with the new boat. I would suggest you also get the after coolers cleaned both inside and out while doing the engine work.

My suggestion would be to look for a cash reduction. You'd rather have the work done by someone you know, and if there's something other than what you've asked to have repaired, the seller would by honest in not repairing an item that may have been found but was not on the conditional acceptance.

Hi,

If you are replacing the Jacket Water Pumps you should also look at the Sea Water Pumps particularly if they are of the flexible impeller type, these are not as long lasting as the Circ Pumps and will require a more frequent servicing than the other ones.

In regards to the HP, Did you get your own engine survey done? If so how were the engines described? Are they described in writing anywhere as 375 Hp?

If you are happy with the current performance you might as well live with it, at 300 hp you will probably get longer life out of the engines as a whole anyway.

There is definitely a case that could be made to recind the deal for fraud if that's your desire. There's definitely a case to be made against your surveyor for negligence if he didn't catch it, which I might be more inclined to pursue as I might have little faith in his survey and want to have another done at his expense. However, you sea trialed the boat and it did what you wanted? If so I'd consider it just a number.
Several years ago I purchased a new car. 2 months later I received a letter from the manufacturer stating that my motor was something like 134 hp instead of the advertised 138hp. All I cared about I'd learned on the test drive, but for that mistake they extended my warranty by a year.

fingers crossed

I guess crossing those fingers only got you so far.

Down here 300 HP engines listed as 375 HP would be covered in the listing by "all items should be checked by the purchasers agent or surveyor".

If you are happy with the work done by the present mechanic I would have him fully check all of the machinery and send a bill to the original surveyor.

...or you could give $10,000 to an attorney and sue everybody involved.

"There's definitely a case to be made against your surveyor for negligence if he didn't catch it ..."

Read the first page of the survey report, it almost certainly states very clearly that the surveyor has zero responsibility for anything written in the report. If he said it was steam powered he still isn't responsible.

And sad to say, there are many of those little hammer whackers who don't know the difference.

steam

I do not know of one surveyor, hull or engines, who would know what steam powered is but plenty who have been to school in Stuart who fill their reports explaining that "good" is better than "fair" but not as good as "very good".

If you're happy with the boats performance the 300hp version of the 3208 will give you better service. That engine originally put out 210 hp. At higher output levels the cooling system is marginal. The sheetmetal housing on the heat exchanger is prone to corrosion. I would run distilled water with a conditioner additive to ward off rust. The cast iron end pieces or "bonnets" as cat calls them need to be inspected also. Keep the zinc pencils changed.

So you had a good time and besides the sea trial, this trip confirms that even though the "speed" was slower for the damaged engine, you LIKE the boat.

As others have pointed out, this can have advantages for the longevity and therefore future costs on the engines.

Best attitude as a boat owner! In the long term, you will have forgotten this issue and there are many more surprises to come, it's all part of boating.
Enjoy yourself and good luck Shawn!

only the 425 hp 3208 TA version are aftercooled and the 375hp version are not aftercooled, look in a CAT book to confirm it. According to CAT's website, there is NO 300hp version. There is a 210hp naturally aspirated version, a 375hp version (with a turbo), and the aftercooled version is 435hp. http://marine.cat.com/cda/files/1014960/7/Spec+Sheets+-+Cat+3208+Propulsion.pdf


I wouldn't bother changing the coolant circulating pumps, they rarely fail, just buy and have a spare if it concerns you. RAW water pump impellors should be changed and the raw water pumps fail 3x more often than coolant circulation pumps (but still not that often). I'd have a spare raw water pump way sooner than I'd carry a spare coolant circulation pump around.

Less power means a little less speed but also less engine wear and less fuel burned. So if the boat is fast enough for you it will give you the desired quality time on the water with somewhat less expenses, or in other words more fun time for the money.
So if you feel the engines are powerful enough enjoy the boat. However, I´d feel tempted to suggest that the broker and you surveyor should do their homework with a little more attention.

Edit: I just noticed what Capt J mentioned. Well them, the engine power is no issue anyway. Be happy with the fat Cats and enjoy your new boat. Congrautlations

@ Capt J: The 3208 engine, is that the repainted Perkins? I am not perfectly familiar with Cat model numbers. If they are someone just bought a boat with really wonderful engines.