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Messy Oil Changes

Discussion in 'Post Yacht' started by RELENTLESS 7, Sep 30, 2013.

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  1. RELENTLESS 7

    RELENTLESS 7 New Member

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    Point Judith, RI
    I have a 1990, 44 Post with Detroit 6V92 engines. I just changed the oil for the season and it was a messy process as always. The oil filters are mounted forward of the engine and they are mounted at a slight angle, not true verticle. This makes for about 2 quarts of oil above the filter to drain. The hull of course is not level and buckets to catch the oil don't sit flush. Need many Oil pads for the clean up. Has anyone any ideas to make this job a little easier and cleaner? Any suggestions are welcome.
  2. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    First, there are twin small drains at the base of the filter housing, alan key operated, second, if not spin ons, get the adapters from DD, not expensive, makes life much cleaner.
  3. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    After cracking the seal I always take off filters inside a garbage bag.
  4. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

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    Me too, those big, thick Hefty ones. No leaks or mess.
  5. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    If on DD" you drain the filters first, no need for that garbage bag nonsense, that's why the drains are there.
  6. RELENTLESS 7

    RELENTLESS 7 New Member

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    I will have to get adaptors from DD. I have spin on filters and there is no drain. When you crack them the oil flows all over. I have even punctured the bottom of the spin on's and tried to drain. The garbage bag also is a good idea. Thanks
  7. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Yeah, I have been using large Zip-Lock bags: Break the seal, then put the bags on from the bottom up, then keep twisting the filters off inside the bag:
    Leave oil-soaking rags underneath and the mess should be minimal..:cool:
  8. oceaneer

    oceaneer Member

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  9. RELENTLESS 7

    RELENTLESS 7 New Member

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    What a great tool! I will look into it. Thanks.
  10. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    This, or use a portable oil change pump, to pump the oil out of the drain bucket/container as it's filling into a 5 gallon bucket.
  11. Robertoman

    Robertoman Member

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    If you have some room you can punch a hole in the bottom side of the spin on with a hammer and a screw driver and drain the filter oil into a bucket. When you loosen the filter the oil will come out easily. Let it drain and it makes the filter assembly a lot easier to handle.
    This advice is approved by my dock neighbor with 6/71's in his 38 Uniflite.
  12. Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    I also put an oil absorbent pad in the bag, and use nitrile (?) gloves - less slippery if/when oil gets on the outside of the bag.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I hate to confess a not so correct way I have done things;
    Get them hot, pump the sump. Next day; pump the sump again.
    Then remove filters.

    Yes, yes; it's not the way it's 'spose to be done. Breaks near every rule and quality rule there is in oil changes, BUT; in tight places, less mess, no burns or scars, it works.
    If it's yours, you know it. If it's a customer, tell him. Then sell him a fix; remote filters and a oil change pump.
  14. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    I use the garbage bag and small bucket method but always seem to end up with a clean up.

    And I keep lots of oil diapers close.

    The most difficult thing seems to pre-fill the filters from the 5 gallon buckets without spilling any oil.

    The filters are rounded on the bottom so they wont stand up on their own when filling.

    I am going to try one of those ketchup style pumps that fit in the top of the 5 gallon bucket to fill the filters next time.

    how full should the filters be when I put them back on?
  15. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    If the motor was recently run, I don't see the need to pre-fill the filters. If the filters are in a real easy location, straight up and down then I will bother pre-filling them about 85%. However, if the motor was run that day or the day before, there will be enough oil on the bearings and liners for the motor to run the 2-3 seconds it takes for the oil pump to fill the filters.
  16. T.K.

    T.K. Senior Member

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    Interesting tool, thanks for the link.
  17. captbluewater

    captbluewater New Member

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    Had same problem with Mann engine filters. I buy cheap aluminum cookie trays and make a drip pan that drains into bucket
  18. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I do the oil changes on the 3412Es here on the boat I run, 40 gal and two big filters per engine... It took me a couple of times but I know manage without spilling a drop

    First, I would NEVER use open pails to collect the oil, I ve seen guys carrying open pails down the dock, that s nuts. I reuse pails with the lid on, putting in the hose from the pump in the hole instead. This way they are sealed tight.

    Garbage bags don't work well for me to catch the oil leaking from the filters... Slippery, can tear, etc... Instead I use a small bucket, large enough for oil coming from the top of the he filter to be caught, but small enough to fit between the filter and the block. A slightly flexible container helps, like a gallon size mixing cup. Whatever fits. It allows me to support the filter from the bottom when it slips off the thread at the end.

    I also set up a big box, lined with a compactor bag and paper towel at the bottom to store the used filters. Also, I keep a pail nearby with a funnel to drain the filters before putting them in the box. Same trick with the bucket for the two secondary filters on each engines

    The next one isn't needed with a smaller Detroit as you only need a pail or engine, but I use a hose long enough to reach outside the boat so that I don't have to lug 9 pails (8 for the mains, 1 for the gennies) on board. Zip tied to the hose, I have the wires to a remote switch so I can control the pump from out side as well. To catch any possible spill, I place each empty pail being filled in one of those small concrete mixing tbus from Home Depot... They re like 18" x 30". Our finger pier extends far enough to reach close to the ER, on sport fish you could easily set up in the cockpit but on some MY it s a lot of carrying up the deck and down to the ER

    This has worked for me very well and I usually don't spill a drop in the process.
  19. captainwjm

    captainwjm Senior member

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    Interesting idea. What size pump are you using? I assume that the hoses lead through vent openings?
  20. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    It's just your basic oil change pump. All I did was to add an on off switch tapped in the pump power supply. I still set the fill / off /drain switch on the pump but can turn the power on or off from outside

    I run the hose and wire up that stairs thru the salon door or into the master a
    And out a porthole. But on many boat you could also run it thru the ER vent. When I got on the boat 5 years ago, the hose was long enough but there was no switch so it was a two person job... Made no sense...

    It s a back saver! carrying 8 or 9 pails up and down isn't fun