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MAN 1360 V12

Discussion in 'Engines' started by crackerD, Aug 14, 2016.

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  1. crackerD

    crackerD New Member

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    Is there any online or otherwise tutorials on how to changes the oil on these engines? My understanding is it's pretty simple, but want to make sure I have all my bases covered (filters, zincs...)

    Thanks for any input.
  2. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    If you need to ask, you really are better off hiring a Man mechanic. You're talking about an engine that costs $80k to rebuild if you screw it up. Mans don't have any zincs. Does the boat have a built in oil drain pump? Usually if it does, Man's have a selector valve with a red handle mounted low and near where the gear mounts to the engine. One direction drains the gear, the other the engine. On the oil filters, there will be 2 drain bolts near the bottom of the housing, hit the head with a hammer a couple of times before trying to remove one of them. Have a catch bucket or rubbermaid underneath it and works best if you have an oil pump at the ready to stick right in or over the bolt hole or to drain the pail as it fills. You want to drain this for a while if waiting on gravity (30 mins) or not nearly is long if sucking on it with a pump. Then you have to take the bolt out of the center top of each housing and they're almost a 2 man job, one to hold the housing down and the other to take the bolt out (spring loaded). Once you take the bolt out and housing off, take the element out. You want new elements, new o-rings, and new crush washers for the drain bolts and oil filter housing bolt. When you install the new filters, you need to align and hold the housing down and get the bolt started and tighten it (2 sets of hands helps a lot here), do not over tighten either the filter or drain bolts. Use Mobil delvac 15w-40 (it's what man recommends/sells), for Common rails delvac full synthetic is REQUIRED, but your engines are pre-common rails I'm almost positive,confirm with MAN dealer, so they use conventional oil.
  3. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Special synthetic oil.

    No zincs in the MAN engine. The clutch and accessories may have their own coolers that may need a zinc.

    The oil filters can be a pain depending where they are.
    A not so dirty trick for those hard oil filters to get a bucket properly under; Start the night before, warm engine, shut down and red tag the start switches and/or breakers.
    Now pump the oil out of the sump. By this time, all oil pressure should be off the oil filter cans. Remove the top bolt on both the oil filter cans. Oil towels ready. Watch for a copper gasket on that plug.
    The next morning, the oil will have drained out of the oil filter cans and into the sump (oil pan).
    Pump out the sumps again. When you service your filters old oil wont be pouring everywhere. When you put the oil filter cans back together, point the top plug towards the top. Use new O rings and copper washers on all you take apart.

    The last secondary fuel filters will test any persons temper.
    1 draining the filter bowel with the fingers of superman. 2 The only way your going to get that plastic cap off is with the proper sized 6 point socket (22mm??).
    Oil that new O ring.
    3 The MAN priming pump has a very short stroke. If your fingers are not bloody and swollen from draining the filter, they will be in priming all 4 sec filters (2 per engine).

    To help the finger and hand cramps, I'm usually consuming plenty of fluids by now,,,,, The rum also helps wash off the dried blood from the hard to reach places under the fuel filters.
  4. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    I didn't see where he mentioned what year his were, so wondering why you said probably pre-common rails?

    We have V12-1360 Common Rail.
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Over 1100 hp I figured CRs.
  6. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    Well, the OP should be looking in his manual for appropriate oil regardless.
  7. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    They made V12 pre-common rails. I ran a 57' Bertram that had them. They were rated at 1350hp and figured possibly rated at the OPs 1360. The only V12 common rails I dealt with were rated 1550hp. But I see MAN does have 1360hp common rails, so I'm guessing the common rails are rated at 1360hp to differentiate them from the 1350hp non common rails.

    But if they are indeed common rails you want to use the Mobil Delvac full synthetic, think it is 15w-40, but might be 10w-40, I haven't looked at the 5 gallon bucket in the engine room lately. I purchase it from the MAN dealer, so I know it's the correct stuff.
  8. P46-Curaçao

    P46-Curaçao Senior Member

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    Boatdiesel.com has some manuals Screenshot_11.jpg
  9. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    I know....but you said you were guessing his were pre-common rails and I didn't see where he gave the age of his boat or engines, which I think would help him in seeking an answer. That was my question if perhaps I was missing something.
  10. crackerD

    crackerD New Member

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    Wow thanks guys. Yes, they are 2013 engines- so CR. 5W-40 Delvac is the oil. The boat is a same year Viking. Has the oil change pumps. I've had the rig a couple of years and never put in the time to learn to do the oil change on engines or generator. Figured I'd ask to see how complex this process really is.
  11. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Not so complex, the oil filters....which also happen to be the same ones on the German U boat in the museum in Chicago, are a messy pain in the rear. Also because nobody uses the remote mount kit so they're both in the aisle and accessible because yeah that's $4500 per engine. I wish the Germans would really get with the 2000s and use spin on filters like everyone else does and get away from using those stupid threadserts.

    The fuel filters are another story. You have to put one in first because with the other one in place won't be able to get the previous one in (or out). Also cannot fill them completely with fuel so have to open the fuel bleed screws on top of the housing and hand pump the rest.

    BE VERY CAREFUL to hit every bolt a few times with a hammer and hard tap (to loosen up the crush washers) and even then 1-2 threadserts will come out with the bolt regardless, usually will screw back in and reseal. Why are they using threadserts in a cast iron oil filter mount anyways???

    I could service a Neptunus with C 18's (oil/filters, all fuel filters) in 3-4 hours by myself. ALL of the filters were spin ons (or racor) and in the aisle I could sit on a 5 gallon pale and change all including priming the new ones in an hour without even rushing. Another boat I manage with great access with common rail 1100's took me over a day to do the same service.

    If I were you, I'd just pay the dealer to do the service. Man is very picky about warranty, and they're not a fun engine to work on even if out of warranty.
  12. ESSRTEE8

    ESSRTEE8 Member

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    I've seen the MAN/U Boat filter housing on MTU motors as well. It's a German thing. Just like Mercedes cars used to be (maybe still are?), a paper filter and housing.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I did not see any bashing or comments on the red-neck filter service on post #3. Was hoping to see any comments here.
    Lucky for us, our last MAN boat was delivered south.
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Oh, that U-Boat in Chicago,U505,, Great (& funny) reading in Admiral Gallery's book; U-505 (original title: Twenty Million Tons Under the Sea) (1956).
    I did visit that museum and was startled to find that U-boat there after reading the book many (many) years before. Not to blow a good real adventure, You kids have to read the book. Very well worth your time.

    http://www.uboatarchive.net/U-505.htm
  15. ESSRTEE8

    ESSRTEE8 Member

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    Huh?
  16. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    What's to bash? Yeah those MAN primaries are a royal pain in the butt (these are the wall mounted filters) with the clear bowl on the bottom that NEVER wants to come off, and the delicate wiring harness on them that you have to be super careful with. I HATE doing a service on a MAN, last one I did was about 3 years ago. I've sub-contracted them out ever since.
  17. CSkipR

    CSkipR Member

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    Agree the wiring harness on the primary filter is a pain. Actually have disconnected the wiring on both of mine for that exact reason. Never had a water issue and I check all the time for one.
  18. olderboater

    olderboater Senior Member

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    The boats we have MAN's in are typical in that they are sport boats and have all the possible engine that will fit. At the best, that is going to lead to some service challenges.