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How to protect varnished teak cap-rails?

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by david_japp, Nov 8, 2011.

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  1. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    NO, Hatteras wasn't doing it, I don't think. Although I did see a few where it was only applied to the non-skidded decks and nothing else. Some other company was doing it for Hatteras international customers/dealers back then. I mostly saw it on the Hatteras' bound for their Greek and Italian dealers back then. They did a bunch of them, then by the time the boats were run to Ft. Laud, sat here waiting for a ship, then shipped to the MED, they had several more on the way with the crap stuck on it before they found out how hard it was to get off and it was haulted. LOLOLOL...... I remember trying to peel it off of one, what a disaster. When it was fresh, it was actually easy to peel off if it was laid on thick, if it was thin it just crumbled in your hand without removing all of it. I remember hearing the Italian dealer telling them that after 3 months of trying to get all of it off, they'd still find it in cracks and crevices on the boat. They had someone in the cockpit of I think a Cabo that it was done on for an entire day with toothbrushes trying to work it out of the factory non skid........ not to mention it was that ugly bright blue that stuck out like a sore thumb LOL
  2. SHAZAM

    SHAZAM Senior Member

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    I was having a tower built at Pipewelders when I saw two 60ish hatteras sf's painted smurf blue from the rubrail up. They had painted everything, decks, house, windows, console, everything! I just ordered five gallons of this material to throw on a couple of boats we have in the yard, I'll let you know how hard of a time my guys have taking it off.
  3. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    The thicker you lay it on, the easier it tends to be to peel off in a sheet without breaking apart. Somewhere between 1/8-1/4" thick seems to be about right. Have fun
  4. macka17

    macka17 New Member

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    Hi.

    Here in Queensland/ the UV is one of highest indexes in the world.
    Sun gets everything.

    I've had a few yachts over the yrs. Timber. and steel.

    My last timber one was Jarrah Hull. Teak and Mahogany topsides.
    When new (('65) she sparkled.
    When I bought her. I let the teak fade. I like grey teak.
    But everybody whinged. So I started oiling it with teak oil.
    Once a month was fine.and no build up as such.
    Works well if you living there.

    Eventually I went to the "Everdure" System (British Paints)

    Sand the timber.
    Water the 2 pack epoxy down with same volume of thinners.
    33% 33% 33%
    and brush it onto timber. Just recoat till grains are full and no more saturation.
    That seals timber forever.
    While still tacky. Mix up some E'Dure 50\50.
    Brush a coupla coats on top.

    My last boat was still good last time I saw her. 5 or 6 yrs later.

    It draws all the grain out and highlights it.Stabilises any Rotten\soft wood around and seals it from sun.

    Get a bit and try it on some timber first if you not sure.
    Just wash timber down. and get oils out of teak surface,
    b4 you start.
    Otherwise it'll not soak in fully.

    If you have an older boat. with nice carved teak timbers that are getting a bit soft or rotten.
    Get a Syringe and large needles. Plus a heat gun.

    Dry timber out completely first.
    Drill small dia holes all over the soft timber. and inject the 3 part mix fully. Several times.So ALL timber saturated.
    The timber will then last forever and not need replacing.
    Keep the dust from drilling. Mix it with some of the epoxy mix and cover drill holes.
    Nothing will show.

    I've done a fair bit of this with some of the old beautiful timber yachts with lotsa carving, and beautiful timber in them. That is irreplacable..
    It completely stabilises the timber.

    Not structurally. Obviously...
    It will strengthen. But I wouldn't trust it.

    You wouldn't believe some of the things we used to do in the old trawlers in the 50's to keep 'em afloat and back to the beach.
    Every boat had bags of sawdust. plugs and big tarp's to drag underneath to seal bad leaks.

    We were Coastal fishing in the 50's. Pots and set lines.
    with some boats built in the late 1800's and early 1900's.

    For my 13th Birthday. I was tossed over the side and dragged along for a while. In the North Sea in winter.. Skip said "that'll grow some hairs on your balls" (After I found 'em. About 3 days later")
    Woke you up in a hurry.
  5. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Well, I used to run a 75' Hatteras MY that had a lot of varnish. When the boat was not being used by the owner, it would sit behind someone's house. So it made sense to cover all of the brightwork with covers, because their was nobody that would look at the varnish anyways, so why have it sit there baking in the sun. Then when it went to a marina with the owner on it, the covers stayed off the entire time.
  6. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    When the boat is in "Storage" there is no reason to show off the beatiful teak/varnsish, unless the admirer wants to keep it up using his or her own elbow grease and checking account..:D
  7. saltysenior

    saltysenior Senior Member

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    it all depends if ''storage'' means under or in a shed....
  8. david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    Protecting brightwork

    Unfortunately, I have to work for a living so only get to use my boat for a few weeks a year and although I find varnishing very theraputic, I have 240 ft of bright-finished teak handrail capping, to say nothing of approx 50ft of teak suoerstructure, so I'd prefer not to have to spend those precious few weeks varnishing. But, Mysue, you're very welcome to come and do it for me!
  9. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Not being used, but outdoors, no shed, no hangar, no nothing.
  10. david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    varnished cappings

    on my 1961 62 ft Feadship Alto Volante (soon to be renamed Tiki) we've decided to use Coelan (a miracle product if ever there is one) on the handrail cappings. Coelan gives a finish as good as any traditional varnish but resists sun and sea like no varnish can ). I will have covers made for short term protection when were not aboard but will be fitting "Cap Wrap" during long periods that we dont expect to be on board. Cap wrap is described as "a chaffing/surface protection tape is for use where a low-tack adhesion is required. The tape is a low density polyethylene, co extruded, white over black, puncture resistant film with a low tack pressure sensitive adhesive applied on the black side. It is suitable for short term, less than 6 months, protection of non porous smooth surfaces, such as, acrylic, glass, plastic, and other metals" Many mega yachts yachts use it to protect the cappings during long sea passages when owner/guests aren't aboard
  11. GeorgeBertil

    GeorgeBertil New Member

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    Hi David,

    I am very curious how Tiki looks now. She was and is one of Feadship's finest built by the Van Lent yard. Is she finished now?
  12. david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    Tiky / Alto Volante - vintage Feadship

    hello
    She's almost finished - the interior is complete and the new Pilot House is built and ready to be fitted . She is currently at Fox's Yard in Ipswich (Suffolk on the East coast of UK) having some remaining engineering done while hull is being filled /faired prior to being painted. We hope she'll be completed by end of year - we are planning to do sea trials in /around Ipswich around Jan /feb then down to the Med in April (probably to be based in Imperia in NW Italy) either on her own bottom via Biscay or on a transporter ship. I'll post some pics in due course but if you (or anyone one else who is interested) sends me a private message with an email address , I'll be happy to send you some pics now. regards David
  13. HIBANX

    HIBANX Member

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    x2!

    Best method I have found in FL. It is what all of the experienced yard professionals recommend.
  14. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I don't think so. First off, 18-20 coats is too thick and can cause the varnish to crack, lift, and be brittle because of it's MIL thickness of so many coats. Secondly I don't like putting awlclear over varnish, because varnish gives off VOC's it's entire life (breathes) and Awlclear being a Eurethane does not breathe, so eventually the gassing of the varnish will bubble or lift the awlclear.

    If you're going to go with Varnish, 10 coats, 12 at most.......then 2 coats every 6-12 months depending on sun/salt exposure.
  15. T.T.

    T.T. Senior Member

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    Like Capt.J states, a lasting finish is achieved with sufficient mil. thickness, and this can vary with product. When finishes fail on teak, it is most often due to moisture intrusion. On the boats I am involved with, many times the finish has to be stripped off and started over with a long term system in mind. I have found that repairing the loose joints is the best place to start. Instead of sealers, I prefer penetrating epoxy x 3 on all the teak,all the same day. Before the last coat of P.E. has completely flashed off, apply the first coat of varnish, or finish of your choice.
    Build until 8-10 coats. In 6 months or less, depending on location and care, light sand and add 2 -3 coats depending on how much you sand. By using the penetrating epoxy first you have impregnated the top cell structure of the teak and prevented moisture intrusion in the teak. By laying the first coat of varnish on the almost flashed off last coat of P.E., the varnish is bonded to the epoxy which is bonded to the teak. I haven't had to stip a boat again with this system.
    When the finish is beginning to loose gloss, time for maintenance coats.
    Ahh, the price of floating furniture!
  16. saltysenior

    saltysenior Senior Member

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    2 coats of dago brown covered with 2 coats of awlclear....99% of the people who see it will not know the difference....:eek:
  17. Berean

    Berean Senior Member

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    I agree with the multiple coats of varnish though I generally start with 8 coats. I am in FL too, I actually add 2 coats every quarter, min 3X a year. This seems to work well for me. The Awl Clear is new to me, I'll have to check it out.
  18. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Raising this older thread so I can get the most an best answers. Thanks.

    We're having the rail and pulpit and some other pieces varnished on the Hat. Our girl recommends West Epoxy for durability. I hadn't even thought that way. This is not my area of expertise. What's your thoughts on that or recommendations. Keep in mind this is mainly a northern boat, and the work will be done now in N.C. (temps 40*-70*F, moderate humidity).
  19. Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    soon coming to the end of the 5 year rebuild We are using Epifanes traditional oil based varnish on all exterior teak surfaces and Im wondering what is the best way to protect the brightwork from the Mediterranean sun (and winter winter) , especially as there will be long periods when we wont be aboard to maintain the varnish on a daily basis.




    I never took my Egg Harbor to the deep south, by I had a 10-12 coat base of varnish on all exterior teak. Sanded in the spring and then again in the later fall. and reapplied varnish. I never need to cover those woods because I used the boat often. So its the everyday rotation of the sun on a stationary boat that needs to be defended. I have seen a lot of rail covers etc.on boats that are stationary. I don't like the look but recognize the efficiency. For me, those covers would have to come off as soon as I'm on boat
  20. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    The West may work on a northern boat, but it's far too hard for a Southern boat and the FL sunshine and heat will cause it to crack and lift.