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How to protect varnished teak cap-rails?

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by david_japp, Nov 8, 2011.

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  1. david_japp, Nov 8, 2011
    #1
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    I'm soon coming to the end of the 5 year rebuild of my 1961 62ft Feadship Alto Volante (soon to be renamed with her original 1961 name but with a slightly different spelling, being "Tiki" instead of "Tiky". Next spring we will move her to the Mediterranean.

    We are using Epifanes traditional oil based varnish on all exterior teak surfaces and Im wondering what is the best way to protect the brightwork from the Mediterranean sun (and winter winter) , especially as there will be long periods when we wont be aboard to maintain the varnish on a daily basis.

    Of course, one way is to have removable covers but they difficult to make and fit, especially on the bulwark cap-rails as they have to have openings for every stanchion and mooring bollard etc . Does anyone have any ideas?
    regards
    David
  2. AMG, Nov 8, 2011
    #2
    AMG

    AMG YF Moderator

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    Hi, this is one of the things we have to live with I am afraid..? If you start with about 12 coats of varnish and keep it clean and dry, you may get away with adding two coats in the spring and two in the fall.

    But if you leave it for months, you may end up with spots that has to be sanded down and built up from scratch.

    I have this same problem and would like to hear if anyone know some miracle cure..?
  3. dennismc, Nov 8, 2011
    #3
    dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    Varnish

    Actually it is the wood that you really trying to protect, as the UV rays penetrate the varnish the top fibers of the teak break down and then the varnish loses adhesion with resulting cracking etc. So, the multiple coats of varnish are really the only answer unless you do make covers, my boat in Florida has the covers, I never take them off. My boat in Vancouver has no covers, way too much teak and the winter actually does more damage than the summer sun. You have my sympathy.
  4. Capt. Mike, Nov 8, 2011
    #4
    Capt. Mike

    Capt. Mike New Member

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    AMG,,, What varnish do you use.


    david_japp ,,, I am in Tennessee and I have seen people make teak covers, it may not look the best but it will help

    [​IMG]
    http://newimages.**************/2/3/1/6/2/2316259_102.jpg?1300843194000
  5. AMG, Nov 8, 2011
    #5
    AMG

    AMG YF Moderator

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    On my teak brightwork I use Epifanes and it can flake off in places. My mahogany boat is with International Schooner and it seems to be "softer", I mean it sticks to the wood as it is flexing, instead of cracking.
  6. chuckb, Nov 8, 2011
    #6
    chuckb

    chuckb Senior Member

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    Le Tonkinois

    I've had good luck with Le Tonkinois, what I really like is that it doesn't require lots of prep work (sanding) and can be applied in a relatively wide range of conditions (although they do recommend rigging an awning if its really hot with direct sun). Google the name and you'll find it has quite a following...
  7. david_japp, Nov 8, 2011
    #7
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    Hi guys - we've already started using Epiphanes so changing now to another make will be a problem - we have thought of fitted covers for the capping but there is a lot of it (handrail and bulwark..ie 4 x 62ft so 245ft in total at a cost of $4000 for capping alone) but the problem is that she a steel-hulled vessel so fitting pop-catches to keep covers on the capping isn't an option for the bulwark capping. Handrail cover is easier to fit and could be lashed or have Velcro . We may have to use use cut-up sections of plastic down pipe as clips ...not pretty but will at least keep covers on .

    I was wondering if there was a any kind of inexpensive UV proof self-adhesive plastic sheeting that could be used and peeled off when no longer required?
    best
    David

    Attached Files:

  8. Savasa, Nov 8, 2011
    #8
    Savasa

    Savasa Senior Member

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    Good Morning David,
    WOW, a labour of love to be sure! In lieu of snaps for the cap rail, how about magnets, being that the hull is steel? Discs for example. They could be sewn into hem pockets although I'm not sure how you would deal with possible results of rusting (maybe the plastic coated ones).
    Peter
  9. NYCAP123, Nov 8, 2011
    #9
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    One of the basic tenants of boating is "Wood means Work". There are only three ways around that: 1) Be rich enough to hire someone else to do the work. 2) Develop the mindset that it is a labor of love (if you have a lot of free time available). 3) Let it go and tell everyone that you like the natural aged look.
    Personally I just love the look and feel of a nice piece of wood, and hate the look and expense of covers. After all, you have wood because you love to see it. Unfortunately neither 1, 2 or 3 work for me so fiberglass and stainless are my compromise.
  10. david_japp, Nov 8, 2011
    #10
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    a Labour of love indeed - she s been totally rebuilt inc new interior , new deck, new PH , new engines , new wiring & systems etc etc etc and approx 30sq mt of hull plating ! Ill be posting pics over the next couple of weeks

    ...I did think of magnets to keep covers on but to make them hold fast in strong winds they have to be very heavy..
  11. Marmot, Nov 8, 2011
    #11
    Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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  12. david_japp, Nov 8, 2011
    #12
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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  13. NYCAP123, Nov 8, 2011
    #13
    NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Very good recommendation. I had thought about that carpet cling stuff, but that could be a PITA to deal with and it's effectiveness would be questionable. This looks really good. Hope lots of varnished wood guys are seeing this. We could start seeing more wood out there and fewer canvas covers.
  14. Laurence, Nov 8, 2011
    #14
    Laurence

    Laurence Senior Member

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    Mahogany

    I have had good success with Bristol Finish on my mahogany rails on my Chris Craft in Alabama. Three years now with no real degradation but in a covered slip.
  15. david_japp, Nov 8, 2011
    #15
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    Your very lucky to have a covered slip - unfortunately I don't and that's the problem! Also I have teak which is notorious fro shedding varnish
  16. Capt J, Nov 8, 2011
    #16
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I really like the schooner. If I was starting with bare wood, I used to use about 6 coats of jet speed, then start laying on layers of schooner on top of the jet speed. Yet I'd usually end at around 9-10 coats, then re-coat as soon as it lost a little of it's sheen.....usually every 9 months here.....
  17. Boatbuilder, Nov 9, 2011
    #17
    Boatbuilder

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    Why don't you topcoat with a good two part clear coat? They have exceptional UV's; can be brushed or sprayed, and are patchable and buffable for the inevitable repairs. The best way is to apply these products over well varnished and well cured varnish.

    Very regular paste waxing will do wonders in extending the life of both varnish and clear coats.
  18. david_japp, Nov 10, 2011
    #18
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    hiya
    the reason we didn't use 2 pack varnish is because of my (and other's ) very bad experience in past with it on teak - ie that its too hard, cracks easily and when it does go bad, is very difficult to remove. But maybe applying 2 pack after the trad oil based varnish is a solution..

    what paste wax have you used?
    best
    david
  19. Capt J, Nov 10, 2011
    #19
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I use Collinite Insulator wax, and it works very well on varnish (as well as s/s, anodized aluminum, strataglass, ez2cy and more.)
  20. david_japp, Nov 10, 2011
    #20
    david_japp

    david_japp Senior Member

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    wax to polish boats

    thanks ..I'll give it a go
    best
    David
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