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Hot water heater removal 1993 Luhrs 290 Open

Discussion in 'Luhrs Yacht' started by DRL, Oct 29, 2020.

  1. DRL

    DRL New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2020
    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Cape May
    Does anyone have any experience with removal of the hot water heater on a 29' Luhrs Open (1993)?

    I recently replaced the water pump and when the system pressurized I'm almost certain the original hot water heater failed. The floor area started to get damp fight below the stairs leading down to the cabin. Verified that it is not antifreeze from the supplementary coolant circulating system so likely the heater failed, could be the connecting lines but access to them also requires getting to the back of the heater tank, hence same process (trying to determine what that process is) as removal to get a visual on the connections. Going to replace anyway since heater is original.

    Initial take leads me to believe I need to dismantle the entire cabinet that houses the heater and the storage area above to the left of the stairs going down into the cabin. Thanks in advance for any subject matter expertise!
  2. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Mar 14, 2008
    Messages:
    11,173
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    My guess would be that the leak is probably at a connection or even a hose, not the heater, but pulling it is the same as in your home. Please be sure to cut power to it before messing with it. If you must pull it measure it. It may fit out the front or possibly by removing a back panel.
  3. KevinMC

    KevinMC New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Kent Island, Md
    Thinking it could also be the pressure relief valve leaking, which as I recall on my 94 Luhrs, was also on the backside of the HW heater. If you can reach around and exercise the handle on the valve, it may possibly close. You might need an extension mirror to see behind the heater. In any case this is not an ideal situation, so if you must remove/replace the HW heater, my recommendation is to get a hot water heater with all the connections on the front side. Everything is more visible that way, and it makes winterizing much easier with the bypass kit. Here's a pic of my replacement HW heater, with the water connections, and engine connections all on the front side. I needed to extend the original water line connections from the back to the front of the heater (these are the braided hoses in the pic). Also mounted it on a piece of Star-board to make for easier slide-out removal after disconnecting all connections.

    Hope this helps you!
    Kevin
    DSCF0021.JPG
  4. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    11,173
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I see you even have a strap for pulling it out. Nice, well thought out setup.
  5. DRL

    DRL New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2020
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    6
    Location:
    Cape May
    Yeah, the Pressure relief valve is facing front along with a drain valve, neither is the culprit. Problem is the water connections are on the back and they are inaccessible. Will definitely reconfigure with all connections on the front. Was just wondering if anyone ever dismantled the cabinetry...looks like a bunch on internal mounting screws that connect the panels which need to be removed to open up access. Will have to be an early winter project, not going to let this get in the way of stripper fishing!! Thanks for the post and pics...great forum!!!