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Donzi 54 Questions

Discussion in 'Donzi/Roscioli Yacht' started by DOCKMASTER, Apr 27, 2012.

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  1. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2012
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    Location:
    Ketchikan, Alaska
    Recently purchased a Z-54 and have some questions if anyone can help. I thought I was getting the original manual with the boat but no such luck.

    1. Anyone know where I can get an original manual describing systems and their operation?
    2. I was told the boat holds 1400 gallons of fuel. Does anyone know the capacity of the cockpit tank and the engine room saddle tanks?
    3. Did these boats come original with engine waste heat plumbed to domestic hot water?
    4. There are P&S water tank fills but I don't see a valve manifold anywhere to draw from one or the other tank. Do they have a built in crossover so they automatically draw and equalize?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Location:
    Point Pleasant, NJ & Morehead City, NC
    1). Saddle tanks are 360gal each and the cockpit tank is a 670gal tank.

    2). As far as I know they didn,t come standard with engine heated hot water only hot water by way of the hot water heater.

    3). The isolation valves are in the companion way machinary space where the water heater is. If they are both open the water will equalize in both tanks.
  3. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    Location:
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    Thanks Donzi 54. Where is the companion way machinery space and how do you access? Is this forward of the engine room bulkhead thru the door?

    Also wondering how accurate you find the fuel gauges to be? Seems like the sending units must be toward the rear of the tanks based on difference in reading when running vs. sitting or idling.

    Lastly, forgot to ask how you transfer fuel between tanks? Seems like it is best to burn fuel out of cockpit tank first then run on saddle tanks. Do you find this the best method?

    I've only had the boat a few weeks now after a long shipping ordeal but I totally love it! The more I find out about it the more I like. They sure build these well. I picked the boat up from shipping in Victoria, BC and had to cross the Strait of Juan De Fuaca in a bit of sloppy weather. Man is it a good sea boat compared to what I'm used to!
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Most sportfish run best draining the cockpit tank last, at least if they cruise at 25 knots or more. You can use the trim tabs to lower the bow and it lifts the stern at the same time.
  5. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    Capt J - I cruise more like low 20's, 25 knots would be high end of my cruise speed. Curious why it is better to use cockpit tank last? Doesn't this make the boat "plow" harder? Seems like the boat picks up speed with the tabs down. In my mind this tells me that weight off the stern (cockpit) first would be better? I'm not disputing whay you're saying, just trying to understand it better.
  6. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    less weight in the bow area allows the bow to ride higher with less drag in the front 1/2 of the boat. Then by using the trim tabs as well, you're lifting the stern as well, so the entire boat is riding higher with less drag......
  7. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Location:
    Point Pleasant, NJ & Morehead City, NC
    There are two machinery spaces in the companion why leading to the state rooms. If the carpet is not cut out then lift up. The one right at the bottom of the stairs is where the hot water heater, fresh water pumps, water filtration and water tank manifolds are located. The other is where the HVAC compressors and vacuflush pumps are located. There is also a machinery space in both the master and vip state room floors.

    The saddle tanks fuel gauges will vary a lot between running and stopped. Those tanks are around 8ft long and they placed the senders at the far ends. If they are at the forward end (like mine) the gauges will show less then what is in there do to the fact that the fuel will be forced aft while running (I wish mine where to the rear). I will burn off my side tanks first and switch over to the aft tank when my displays show approx 300 - 325gals fuel used.

    I don't think any of the 54's had any fuel transfer pumps added. I do as Capt J had mention feel the my boat handles much better with the side tanks emptied first. Also when at the dock with most of the fuel in the aft tank the weight there allows the boat to ride in the water with a little bow up attitude allowing for any water to drain aft from bridge and bow after washing or rain. Also any collected water in the bilges will drain aft to your bilge pumps better.
  8. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    I agree. Well said.
  9. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    Thanks guys, that helps a ton. Appreciate all the help.

    Donzi54, my vacuflush pumps and both gray and black tanks are in the spaces below the deck at the fwd end of the companionway. However, I have not found any tank gauges for the black or gray. Does yours have them? I found the water tank gauge with a P&S selector for the gauge inside the washer/dryer space but have not found black or gray tank gauges.
  10. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    My Viking seems to like to ride better with the weight in the front tank.

    My Post with almost zero deadrise rides much better with the weight in the rear tank if there is any kind of following sea.

    Surprisingly,
    1. The Viking pounds a little more than the Post (I never would have guessed that)
    2. Both are wet boats, The Post might be slightly wetter, but that is really hard to judge....they are both wet and require the strataglass in the down position up top.
    2. The viking tracks much better and handles the following seas like a rock star.
    3. The Post in a following sea can be an emitional event, i dont use tabs in any kind of following sea and I try to keep the rear tank full if possible to help keep the stern down.
    4. The Viking will make you seasick bobing like a cork when drifting or at a open water dock.
    5. The Post is rock solid at drift, at dock, or at anchor.

    both are SF
  11. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Your grey water will go directly overboard.

    Your black water may have a tank gauge in one of the heads, but not necessarily.
  12. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Location:
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    Black water tank gauge was a series of colored lights at top right of breaker panel. There should also be a switch located next to it for the black water pump. If ever you use the black water pump for pumping out make sure the sea cock for the black water is opened. It is located in the machinery space where the water heater is.

    The gray water is pumped over board automatically when the tank level fills.
  13. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Member

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    I don't think I have the tank level lights but I'll look again. On my panel there is a switch for the black water pump and an identical switch for the gray water pump. I'll have to fill the gray water tank to see if it pumps automatically. Seems like it should but I'm surprised Donzi even installed a gray water tank instead of directing the gray water straight overboard. I wonder if I can line the system up to go straight over instead of going to the tank?
  14. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Location:
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    Both shower and head sink drains plus all the air handler condensation drains empty in your gray water tank. The galley sink and the clothes washer are the only ones to drain staight over board. The system is pretty reliable. The gray water tank has a Groco pump inside of tank under the bolted on plate where the discharge hose is.
  15. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    They do it so you don't hear noise at cruise through all of the sink drains and such from the ocean passing by the thru-hulls.

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