Diesel 6-71

You did see from the pics he was keeled cooled.
A star gear pump sometimes needs some help in priming, That is why I suggested opening the last injector tube. While there, checking the rack for any stuck injectors.

I can not fly in without my tools. My heavy crew is working in Port Canaveral for a long while.
I do hate Norfolk.
Lets get that starter back on and ensure the main will go over and build oil pressure.
It may just take a bit to get her running.
If more problems or if you can not find a local tech, I can be there in two weeks by van. I'll sneak in and my name is John if anybody ask.
Lets ensure it spins and some other things before we get that desperate.

Did I ever tell you; I do hate Norfolk.

Come on down.

Send some pics.
Most big starters and solenoids are ground isolated and need their own Battery-Negative straps.

Got your pictures. One was just the side of the engine. The second pic does show you have an isolated ground starter.
Get me a few more pics of all the contacts on the solenoid and I'll draw up a schematic.
Don't just start clamping wires on, lets take our time and try to get it correct the first (couple) of tries..

Lets also try to find that model & serial number. Need to ensure the starter spins in the correct direction.
Check post #45 above.

Hey Lepke
Your pic in #45 is the throttle to governor connection, not the governor shut down connect.
I do have a feeling that the idle screw has been backed out so far and when the throttle is pulled way back, the engine does die.
This is not the preferred way but we start working with what we have.

It could. But on that big stud I see in the pic. Your already strapped wrong.
I'm trying to retire. Don't call early but call when you get to the boat. I'll have my phone close (if I can find it tonight and charge it). If I miss you, I'll call you back.
,Ralph

That stud in the pic should be battery negative.
I need to see the solenoid to figure the connects to it.

On my boat, there is a Delco in-term solenoid. The thought is a real heavy B+ current does not have to travel from the engine to the helm, then back down to the starter. A smaller current is needed up and down to this remote solenoid (If you really have one), then, this gives a solid bang of voltage to the solenoid mounted on the starter.
Like a jig saw puzzle, we will figure it out.

Yep, The later starter motor.
The negative battery strap goes on that post on the back of the starter. The positive strap goes to the top post on the solenoid.
Wire with yellow strips is your engage wire, to the starter switch, starter button or in-term solenoid's out-put post.

I think you may have to ad a second negative strap from the starter (B-) to the block if the block has been used for a common negative path for senders and grounds to other options.

Next concern, It may just be the angle of the camera, Are the starter noises the same length? The older starter looks like it may have a longer reach inside the bell housing, Typical of a Allison wet flywheel.