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Can’t get my props off

Discussion in 'Props, Shafts & Seals' started by 993RSR, Jun 4, 2020.

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  1. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    Hauled today at 11:15 and the shop worked till 2:30 trying to remove my props. They would not budge.
    First they used a puller with two threaded rods into the hub and a torch. Destroyed the puller.
    Next was a chain puller and torch. The hub fittings failed on the chain puller from all the torque.
    We are trying to avoid driving my shafts into the gears with a sledge.
    Any tips?
    Fortunately these props perform fine and there is no emergency to get them off so I went back overboard.
    These are 5 blades with two threaded holes on 2 1/2 shafts.
  2. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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  3. mapism

    mapism Senior Member

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    I suppose that if you are suggesting it, you know it's effective.
    But can you explain a bit (or point to some references about that) how it works?
    Their website ain't the clearest I've ever seen...
    Btw, according to it, it seems that they don't make metric sizes.
    Do you possibly know if that's really the case?
    TIA!
  4. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    When prop shops bore the taper into the prop hub or some times try to clean up the bore, just a micro amount of chatter will leave some lines in the hub. Like a course rifled-bore. I hate this when it happens, I have refused propellers when discovered quick enough.
    Thru my years, these wheels can really get a grip on the shafts taper. It takes work, a dam strong tool, lots of heat and an ice block or ice bag sitting on the shaft leaning against the strut. Hopefully saving the cutlass bearing (usually not) but keeping the shaft cooler than the prop's hub.
    Your on the hill, fix this issue now. A diver will never be able to get them off.
  5. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    You are heating the prop hub to expand it, has to be done with the right torch, but it is an effective last resort. Just like Ralph says, plan on new cutlass bearings and sending the shafts out for clean-up and checking the taper.
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    You are heating the prop quickly, B A Rosebud torch at least. The bronze has to heat up and expand quicker that the shaft.
    Just sitting there with a pussy lil bic lighter is not getting anything done. The ice bag on the shaft does help but it all has to happen fast, tension already on the wheel and a safety chain to keep it from launching off towards somebody's leg or toes.
    Better yard folk know all of this... If not, it's not a better yard.
  7. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

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    On the big fishing boats, we just put a small dot of gelignite behind it and blow the F**ker off.
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    There were times I was looking for something like that in the old yard.
    I understand that can not be done out of the water, it needs the shock of the un-compressable water against the wheel.
  9. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

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    Yep, but remember to keep the nut on the end of the shaft or the divers could make Pay-Day a whole lot more expensive.
  10. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    Thanks for all the suggestions. I did buy a PropSmith but the props currently on the shafts only have 2 drilled and threaded holes.
    Initially we had two small torches in use then graduated to acetylene. No luck.
    When the props were removed at Seminole the tech used two threaded rods, plate and a torch.
    Sounds like we need more heat quickly with the prop loaded up with pressure and safety chain.
  11. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Haven't tried hydraulics to remove? Had a set replaced in the water in Coinjock, 9pm one night...diver tooling as I ate my prime rib...they wouldn't budge. Hydraulic wedge was used, and they popped off at about 3000 pounds. Prime rib was delicious.
  12. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    The hydraulic puller is next on the list. Investigating what brand, style accessories. Call into Treasure Coast
  13. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    What kind of shop or yard are you dealing with? I ve seen it in the past... yards used to dealing with smaller boats often lack the tools or experience to deal with larger wheels

    a prop smith is a must have on board.
  14. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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  15. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    Bert Jabins is the yard that pulls the boat and the contractor who is doing the prop swap has done the swap on this boat twice before.
    PropSmith will not work as we only have 2 threaded holes in the old props. We have one for the new props
  16. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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  17. 993RSR

    993RSR Senior Member

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    What do you think?


    49 props3.jpg 49 props1.jpg 49 props 2.jpg
  18. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    The video is HERE
  19. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    Yes, that kind of setup with a port-a-power puck between the shaft end and plate, like THESE guys have. I would forgo the hammer option and try to get two large rosebud oxy acetylene torches on it, one on each side. Try to get the heat in an area away from the puller rods, lest they warm up enough to stretch.
    Don't forget the safety chain . The props get rather damaged when they fly off and land on the ground. If you can have a prop nut on along with clearance for the puller rods, that's better than a chain. It depends on the size of nut and hole spacing.
    Been through this several times on larger yachts I've run, and as you said; deliver heat quickly. Done with enough fast heat, the shaft won't even get very warm behind the cutless. Haven't melted a bearing with this method yet.
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
  20. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    If they were already removed once, they weren't installed correctly the last time they removed them which is why you have the problems you have now. Either the key ways are too tight, and/or the props were not lapped to the shafts. Check key way fit in both prop and shaft and massage the keyway a bit, always lap the props to the shaft (spinning them on the shaft without the keyways with valve grinding material).