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Bottom Paint Removal

Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by CaptainRoamer, Dec 3, 2004.

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  1. CaptainRoamer

    CaptainRoamer New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2004
    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    Lake St. Clair
    I was down checking on the boat today where she is in storage. Crawled under to asses the bottom paint situation. She appears to have about 900 layers and I would like her to look like she left the factory. I really don't know where to start! Do I take it off with a wire wheel...stripper...what? What kind of epoxy/sealer should I use? We'd really like a "copper" color paint, is there one with no copper content? I need help, any info would be great. Oh and she's steel...all 37 feet...37 feet of paint that needs to come off! Additonally, we have to repair a few spots around the transom and decks...have some rust spots (just small)...please advise.

    Matt
    Steel Pleasure
    Windsor, ON
  2. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2004
    Messages:
    850
    Location:
    Alex, VA
    This is a job....

    ...., for Super-Roamerman!
    The answers you seek grasshopper are under your thumb (make that your right index finger on the mouse):
    http://www.geocities.com/alloyed2sea/TechnicalForum.html
    Even better:
    http://www.geocities.com/alloyed2sea/SavetheSteel.doc
    Now get back to work! :D
  3. CaptainRoamer

    CaptainRoamer New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2004
    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    Lake St. Clair
    Method

    I went to a seminar at the Windsor Yacht Club last night. Our steel hull needs to be sandblasted. I was told to use Interlux Interprotect 2000E- about 6 coats as an epoxy. As a antifoulant, I was told to use Interlux MicronCSC.

    This would definately work, however, there are a few problems...first, the boat will be difficult to have sandblasted as our 'neighbors' are very close...it was suggested we find someone to waterblast. Any suggestions?

    Second...the 2000E Epoxy is $80/gallon and we'll need 10 gallons (approx) + the cost of sand/waterblasting and the antifoulant. Is there a cheaper way/product that will still do the job right?? The total cost will be about 3k.

    Help.

    Matt
  4. ss6748

    ss6748 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2004
    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Pacific Coast
    Hello. I went through bottom paint removal twice. Roamers came out of the factory using this process: acid wash to prep the metal; multiple coats of vinyl-based underliner primer to insulate the bottom steel; multiple coats of bottom paint (use for your area.) The primer was gray so it would show thru when the bottom paint had worn thin. Original paint schemes came with permanent red, or light blue bottom paint colors. Hulls were white with red boot stripe and dark blue sheer stripe. This info cfame from Gite Van Kampen, Roamer's Holland Plant Manager in the 1960's. My Dad had gotten to know Gite while our 48' was being built. I also got to know him and he told me about this info. Infact, he told me a lot about Roamers.

    Now, my story: You have to be extremely careful and make sure everyone knows what they're doing. The firtst time our's was removed was on the service manager's recommendation. (We later found out it didn't have to be removed....the guy didn't know what he was talking about and was eventually fired!) They started using stripper but realized that it would take too long so they used grinders. They used the Interlux system but didn't acid wash the bottom first. They waited too long between coats so the paint didn't attach. The second time, the new new service manager recommended they grind again. They used (without telling us) zinc chromate as the primer and copper-based bottom paint. Paint still didn't hold and found out about the zince chromate when we moved the boat to California. The marine center out here zeroed in the problem immediately -- zince chromate -- not be used on steel under water! They sand-blasted the bottom, which showed all of the corrosion holes from the dissimiilar metals. We double-plated areas of the bottom so the boat could go back into the water. They used the Interlux 2000/2001 system. The paint stayed on in great shape for 4 years, despite sitting in saltwater. I have since hauled her and have her on the hard while we get ready to fix the bottom.

    If I can help in any way, please email.

    Jeff
    ss6748
  5. commish01

    commish01 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Panama City
    Hull protection

    I have a similar thread posted on another part of this site, so search it out and read on... my purpose in posting now is to tell you I am so pleased with my hull after one year in brackish saltwater conditions... I live on a small bayou with a regular influx of fresh water, but the bulk of my trips are to the island and the Gulf of Mexico... After blasting the hull last year we applied three coats of a two part epoxy and then two coats of the epoxy hard paint and then two coats of regular bottom paint... The colors were alternated to help determine, in the event of any damage, how severe a problem could be...
    She is out of the water right now with engine problems, but the paint looks terrific...
    I run raw water and whoever replace the starboard engine did not put in brass freeze plugs.... ugh.... big $$$$ for 8 $2 plugs.... should have been brass....In any event I am pleased with the results and look forward to many years of Roaming!!!!
  6. Dhowdodger

    Dhowdodger New Member

    Joined:
    May 27, 2006
    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Arabian Gulf
    wet garnet blasting leaves a nice finish on steel, and dosent travel to far to coat others. Two of my friends who have steel live aboards swear by Jotuns Jotamastic as a bottom paint, and flash coated on 4 coats before the anti-fouling.
    For the antifouling they used regular 'tanker' red Jotun or Hemple, about 6 coats.
    Jotamastic is ok above the waterline as well, but must be over coated as it does discolour in UV.
    Hope that helps.
  7. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2005
    Messages:
    7,393
    Location:
    My Office
    Hi,

    I justsaw this.

    Brass is not much good in Sea Water but it is betterthan plain ole steel.

    Where I did my apprenticeship we used to coat the inside of freeze plugs and the hole rims with Shellac as this will provide a barrier between the plug face and the water. You should also look at these as a regular maintenance item if you are running direct salt water cooling through the engines.
  8. Orestes

    Orestes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2005
    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    RI - Cove Heavan Mariina Barrington
    hull paints

    Anybody heard of "Rust Bullet, LLC" <Info@RustBullet.com>??? an aluminum /epoxy used in the NAVY
    How about Zinga (zinc/epoxy)???
    Should I use any of these below the water line or stay with straight epoxies?
    Orestes
    Romer 31
  9. Orestes

    Orestes New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2005
    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    RI - Cove Heavan Mariina Barrington
    bottom paint / blast

    All recommendations on bottom paints are so different and confusing. Some old-timers from RI recommended POR-15 products after a conventional blasting. I do not know if the do the job but I try to keep any mixings away (zinc based, aluminum based etc) let alone the most expensive ones. I am wondering if good old and cheap military epoxy surplus can do just fine. If is good of the battleships should be good for the Roamers too, they were build with same (surplus) steel

    Orestes:confused:
  10. Oneiros

    Oneiros Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2006
    Messages:
    297
    Location:
    lulea Sweden the land of the midnightsun
    hi
    Epoxy is the best way to do it
  11. Henning

    Henning Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Messages:
    942
    Location:
    Ft Lauderdale FL
    Use an Ultra High Pressure Water blaster. These units are the ones that are 11,000psi +. Most handy, cleanest way of getting rid of paint and rust.