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1997 Viking 43C Restoration - Looking for suggestions

Discussion in 'Viking Yacht' started by petrel, Nov 30, 2019.

  1. ranger58sb

    ranger58sb Senior member

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    Ours would look slightly better if the hatches were actually wrapped.... but that would have taken too much unexpected/unplanned carpentry (shaving hatch edges, shaving surround edges, catching all the sawdust, etc.) during installation. He ended up cutting the Soundown to fit the actual dimensions, and then folding just the carpet layer down around the edges. We have one small bilge hatch that came wrapped from the builder, and that one looks a bit better... but not enough better to have made us do all the extra work at the engine hatches.

    -Chris
  2. petrel

    petrel Member

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    I've got three factory hatches in the companionway. I'm going to take a look at how that carpet is installed. I sure like the idea of being able to pull any hatch in the salon, if necessary.

    Since it is a restoration (and a boat!), I don't have any illusions about everything below decks functioning flawlessly afterwards. I want to be able to get to some of the more difficult spots, without either hiring a contortionist to do it for me, or tearing up the carpet again.
  3. petrel

    petrel Member

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    It has been a slow winter. Didn't get much done. While on a trip to FL I managed to get the fighting chair traded out for a rocket launcher. I also got the couch base hinged to act as extra tackle storage where the sofa bed used to be, so it is ready to be reinstalled.

    Motor is almost finished. Hopefully a fuel pump issue will be worked out tomorrow, so we can seatrial again and head up the bay for paint.

    IMG_B4C68271F59D-1.jpeg IMG_B4C68271F59D-1.jpeg
  4. Nils

    Nils New Member

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    That is what I did. Looks and works great
  5. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Finally got underway with two newly rebuilt engines and a freshly cleaned bottom. Boat really ran well, although I will not test top end until the motors have had a chance to break in a bit. Now we have about 5hrs SMOH Starboard, 4hrs SMOH Port! Went straight to the next boatyard where she is now being prepped for paint, and various small projects.

    I'm still deliberating on the flooring. After having had the floor out all winter, I'm sold on keeping the floor easily removable. Since deep drop fishing is our new passion, whether I go teak/holly or carpet, it must have another carpet dropped in to protect the flooring. Bottom fishing is messy business.
  6. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    When breaking them in you need to vary the rpm and not run at any one rpm too long a period, do not see any issue in bringing a newly rebuilt engine up to load/wot for short periods during break-in, would prefer it myself for proper “break in”.
  7. petrel

    petrel Member

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    I've been varying the cruise RPM from 1600 to 2100 for the few hours I have on the engine so far. Unfortunately, it will be a couple months before the paint job is completed and the break-in can continue.
  8. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Talk to some DD guys, I think you want to see wot for 15 seconds one or two times to properly set the rings.
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Those are the rare & famous DDEC 6V92TIABs, making over 100 HP per lung.
    IMO, go to loaded WOT once to prove correct propeller tuning and never go there again.
  10. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Glad you chimed in, do you have a break in procedure recommendation on DD’s?

    I though the DDECs were the only ones rated to 625hp?
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    This is the DDEC 6V92TIAB.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 10, 2020
  12. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Break in procedures?
    No.
    Desire to keep a high strung block together?
    Yes.

    Thru out this models life, one serial number was all needed. No changes for the whole model run.
    It is the tidder todder of DDEC, 92s and high power out put.
    This engine will offer great economy and long life to 450 HP. Past that think rebuilds soon.
    Even though DDC does not offer a comparable engine life/cycle profile, just think ; keep High Performance duty cycle down. Cruise at 1950 to <2000. Even if you luv screaming past that, please recall my works, keep HP duty cycle down.
    The more you stay off of 500HP or more, the longer your engine will last.

    So, This is why I suggest a different break-in schedule plan than PacBlue. Be in no hurry to rob life from your engines.
    Last edited: May 10, 2020
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Keep the biggest K&N air filter you can mount on that turbo.
    Clean it often.
    Ensure more than enough cool air is getting to your engine room.

    In case you forget what this engine is about; Blowing in the max amount of COOL air possible.
    TIAB
    T
    Turbo; Great big liquid cooled turbo blowing a pile of boost air pressure into your engine.
    I Intercooled; The first sea water splash cooling the air after the turbo, before the blower.
    A Aftercooled; Sea water then passes thru it's first heat exchanger. Here it cools coolant from sea water for an internal air box air cooler. Further cooling the compressed air after the blower, rite before it enters the lungs.
    B By-Pass; The blower (supper charger) is already high gear driven. Before it slows down the air charge pressure from the turbo, it is allowed to free spin and offer the least air pass thru restriction. Now as RPM increases more, the turbo is in charge of air box air pressure with two air coolers ensuring cold, dense & compressed air in to the lungs. Jets engines rely on some of these same principles.

    Next;
    92s start at 15:1 compression ratios. Lets have 30PSI of dense cold air injected into that lung before the piston port closes.
    I do not know the number but I know the final compression ratio is scary high.

    I do not recall a waist gate on the turbo. Hence; IMO the more power on RPM, the taller the pressures on the engine lungs increase.
    This is what blows out liners.

    You kids know I luv 2 strokes from DDC. I also luv happy owners.
    Regarding this hand grenade, keep your foot out of it always when possible.
    Think of the 6V92TIAB as a 500HP engine with some emergency HP.
    Last edited: May 10, 2020
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    The last thing I want to do is dump on Petral's thread with out some help.

    We have 3x3 foot office carpet squares that help us get to our 12V71TIs. When one gets stained or warn, back up squares in the shop are on stand by.
    After 12 years, 4 squares were replaced when the steering system leaked fluid on them thru the salon aft bulkhead.
    Kats have done some kat things on a couple of squares. With soap and water, it washes off quickly and drains dry overnight.
    Got 20 3x3s left as spares.
  15. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Trust me, I'm not interested in dropping more money in that hole any time soon. Once we are done with paint, we plan to experiment with the wheels. We want to be able to cruise in the 1900-2000RPM range with less load on the engines.

    I am going to see if Viking can give me the original wheel specs, compare them to what I have, and work it back from there. I don't mind losing a little speed for a bit more longevity.
  16. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    While the DDEC's should give you load information, heat is the killer on these engines and you should balance your Load requirements with Exhaust Gas Temperatures. You want to get the factory Engine Exhaust Temp data per rpm and keep them monitored.

    My experience with DD's are that 1950 rpm is the max cruise setting for longevity, that means that for a 4+ hour run I would never exceed that rpm given my Exhaust Gas Temperatures are dialed in also. If I need a shorter burst of speed I may bump them up to 2050 rpm, but less than an hour at that setting. That approach has worked for me out West with 6V-92's and 8V-92's, but speed has never been a priority.

    Contact Johnson & Towers with your Engine Serial Numbers and they can pull the start-up sea trial data that gives you the factory prop spec, but an owner outfitted boat has gained weight over time and most likely needed a pitch reduction during the process.
  17. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Thanks
  18. petrel

    petrel Member

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    J&T did not have the information. However, they did refer me straight to the gentleman at Viking who had the information at his fingertips.
  19. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Glad to hear you got the numbers, nice to have the baseline.
  20. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Work at the yard is moving along. Riggers, antennas, electronics, etc. have been removed, along with the hardtop.