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1989 Viking 35 Convertible

Discussion in 'Viking Yacht' started by steveg_nh, Mar 28, 2018.

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  1. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Should have the sea trial the week of April 30, weather and marina permitting. Getting closer!
  2. ReelPlumber

    ReelPlumber Member

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    Let us know how it goes.
  3. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Closed on the boat. She ran great on the way to her home port. Now just going through it and tidying up and doing some maintenance. Posting soon on a bilge pump question.
  4. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    congratulations!
    good luck with boat.
  5. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Question on this boat too, for anyone that's had or has one...I noticed in the manuals left by the seller, there is a reference to an additoinal optional 75 gallon fuel tank. I noticed in my galley, there is a small panel to the right of the microwave. It has a fuel gauge on it, with a light for the freshwater pump, and the galley fan switch. Is this really a fuel gauge? It certainly isn't a fuel gauge for the main tank. I thought it might be for the freshwater tank, and a previous owner replaced it with an incorrect gauge, but it doesn't seem to fluctuate when I use or add water. If this is for this optional tank, how the heck would you switch to it? I don't see anything on the helm...Thanks!
  6. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    That is the freshwater pump system.
    The red light should come on when you turn on tap provided your on tank water. It indicates that the pump is running. The gauge may not be working the sending unit in the tank usually gets waterlogged and stops working. Yep the original senders have a cork in them that slides up and down. The tank and access is under my galley table on Port side on my 44, yoursy maybe different.
  7. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Thanks. Weird that is shows "fuel" on the gauge! I will need to investigate that.

    One last question - for a full holding tank, I don't see a guage for that anywhere showing the level. Just above the toilet flush button there is a light labeled "Do Not Flush". I assume when tank is full, that light will light? The boat has an awful sanitation smell that I'm trying to track down. My wife says she smells it something fierce, me not so much, but it is there. I found some gross stuff in the shower sump and toilet lines that I cleaned up, that helped, but didn't eliminate it all.
  8. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    I'm betting the PO swapped out the the water gauge when it went bad. Fuel gauges are easy to get , blank or water not so easy. Does the gauge show any level? If it does and you turn off the breaker for the pressure pump the gauge should pin to full.

    As far as the BLK water tank is concerned. Viking typically only put an indicator light in each head that said "Do not Flush" it came on at about 90-95 % full. Don't be late pumping , ask me how I know.
    What I did was install a new vertical lift sending unit , (think I had to make an adapter plate). I then used the wires from the light to feed a fuel gauge (It's true ) in the main head to give me full details. However, I disassembled the gauge first and whited out the word fuel.
    The gauge can be anything you can locate that looks good.
    The sending unit should be one designed for the tank it is in. It will have a guard around the float to keep the s*"" from plugging it up. If you can locate a capacitive version all the better.

    You won't be able to put an external type on the tank as it's fiberglass and glassed into the hull below the floor.
  9. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Thanks. I appreciate it. The water (fuel) gauge did more when I filled it, but stays at the last reading with the freshwater breaker is off. Doesn't pin. Doesn't seem to go any lower than 1/4 tank too.
  10. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Pull the sending unit and move the float over the length. Watch the gauge .
    The sending unit is probably threaded in at least mine is. It's a 1 1/2" pipe thread. So a big pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench is in order.
    At least that is what I have and since they're similar vintage yours is probably the same.
  11. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Awesome thanks!

    You are a wealth of knowledge...how about an assist with a possible clogged vent line on the blackwater system? Sometimes, when flushing the head, the pump runs, but water is not sucked out...Flip the seacock off (that pulls water to flush the head) and it will slowly drain the bowl of water.
  12. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Try forcing water in from the vent through hull fitting. I'm betting the screen is full of crap. Be careful as the blowback from the hose can get you pretty wet if you're not prepared.
  13. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Simple enough answer! :) I just need to locate the vent. I have all my manuals, I'll look there and see if it points me to the spot.

    Maybe I should do the same for the drain for my shower sump. The pump works fine but the water comes out fairly slow. Not quite a trickle, but nothing like, for example, the bilge pumps (certainly larger pumps) or the AC pump.
  14. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Yes cleaning out the shower sump system will be a good thing. Probably full of hair and soap, there is a plastic screen in the actual sump as well.

    The tank vent will be in line with the tank. Mine's just aft of forward head but I don't know your layout so can't say. It's a chrome fitting aiming down and aft , wherever it is.
  15. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    Thanks! I did clean out the show sump. It was a mess, and the screen had a science experiment in it. It was rarely used if ever in the last 10 years. It's working now, but draining slow. Thinking sediment dried in the drain line.

    I really appreciate your help and tips!
  16. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    Turn the shower on and go outside and watch the exit, that will tell you what going on. Should be 3/4-1" stream in short bursts as the sump empty's and fills
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    When it comes to shower sumps we use real Liquid Plumber Gel every other month if it needs it or not, on all of our sumps.
    Have learned some store brands do not work so well.
    Pump out what you can, pour in a half bottle, few hours rinse it out.

    It's our usual fix for customers boats.

    We did find on one customers boat, the above water discharge thru hull had a hair beard hanging from it.
    Cleared it out and that problem was fixed with out stepping on board.
  18. steveg_nh

    steveg_nh Member

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    I poured water from bottles down the shower drain, and definitely wasn't getting a good stream out of the boat. More like a slow pour than a 3/4-1" stream.

    Did you add the Liquid Plumber Gel right in the shower drain, or directly into the sump box under the cabin sole (in the hull)? I tried to blast water from a hose through the hose from inside the boat, and wasn't very successful. It still wasn't a good stream out of the thru hull drain.
  19. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    In the drain. Cycle the pump first so the drain cleaner wont pump out as you add it. Hour later quickly cycle the float switch so some drain cleaner gets thru the pump and into the hose a bit but don't let all pump out. In another hour do it again to further fill the discharge hose. Your trying to get the cleaner to the discharge thru hull with out pumping it out yet.
    That night, rinse all well with hot water.

    I've noticed 3 usual clog locations; the pump impeller, discharge / transition from the pump to the drain hose and the drain hose connect at the thru hull fitting. Unlike sanitation hose issues, never noticed an issue in the hoses low places.
  20. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Ah, Had one bug, someone put a splice in one line and it clogged with hair and stiff there.