1989 43 Covering Board and Rub Rail Replacement

After gluing up the Starboard side similarly to the Port... The transom board was dry fitted. We built a new hatch cover for the transom door out of teak. the old one was badly water damaged and deformed. That new piece was wedged into place and temporarily secured. We used wax Fillets to fill the seams (Hinge side and inboard side) in this new door hatch where we didn't want the epoxy to stick when gluing up the covering board. The hinge was also preliminarily laid out and a new stainless backing plate for the hinge was fiberglassed into place. There is a pretty good crown across the transom so lots of clamps were needed. We left a big notch at the quarter on both the Side boards and the transom board that enabled us to pull the seam tight in that area. Again... lots of ooze to chase for about an hour after clamping down tight. It was dark by the time I stopped cleaning up Oozing glue!



After removing the clamps, the covering board at the transom door hatch was cut with a hand saw. A new coaming board was cut and fitted to match the existing (painted) coaming boards on both sides of it. All coaming boards will be primed, faired and painted as a final step.



All overhangs were trimmed appropriately and block sanded. Surface got a quick preliminary sand as well



Coming up next - Hinge will be fitted and rub rail removal and installation will commence.

Stay tuned!

I replaced it all with new and my old stuff was in pretty rough condition and I think all of it went in the dumpster already. I was told that they don't still make the identical plastic rail that was on the boat from the factory in 1989. The stuff I used has almost identical overall dimensions...The difference is that it has a recessed groove that the stainless sits in which makes the stainless about flush with the white plastic once complete. The plastic rail part number that we used is RVO - 105 - check out the rubrails.com website.