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Post wiring

Discussion in 'Post Yacht' started by Greg Page, May 31, 2021.

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  1. Greg Page

    Greg Page Active Member

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    I've decided I really dislike the plastic wire chase box used, and I hate the bundles being wrapped in tape. It's impossible to trace individual wires or find where unused wires are dead ended (usually just cut but not capped) and impossible to remove them. I'm seriously thinking of ripping out all the plastic wire chase and installing Adel cushion clamps and unwrapping all the bundles so you can service each wire.

    I can see why prior owners have just left dead wires in place but it drives me crazy to have to leave them there.
    Am I the only purest or have others pulled all that out too? Too many years designing aircraft I guess.
  2. Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    Greg. I have removed a few hundred pounds of wire from the bridge console to the engine room over the years. I also have my original owners books and wiring diagram with color coding. If you think the it would help I can post them. My diagrams are cover the 91 43 and 46.
  3. Greg Page

    Greg Page Active Member

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    Any wiring information would be a great help. Please post or email me what you have. Our boat is an 89 completed in 90 so should be close to a 91.

    I'm starting with tracing and removing cut but not properly terminated wiring I see and re-activating the manual bilge pump control functions. I traced the forward pump, having more difficulty verifying where the aft pump is getting it's power from.
  4. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    I like cradle mounts for rewiring jobs. You can support the wiring harness with loose wire ties as you remove tape and dead ends. As you progress, you can groom the wire bundle and even install split-loom over it. You'll need to develop the outlook that wire ties are temporary until the project is done. You'll spend less time massaging the results into the configuration you like if you feel free to cut and toss temporary wire ties. I buy 8" 50# wire ties in 1000 quantity bags. Get some flush cutters so there aren't little sharp stubs to slice yourself up with when it's all done. Better yet, good cheap wire tie tools are great, as they cut flush and close. I just hate wire ties that are cut with diagonal cutters at an angle so they can do the most damage to people. That's just sloppy. I trim the little bad ends others have left with flush cutters as i work. Saves a lot of blood loss.
    Remember to rotate the wire tie for a nice clean look when done, with the buckle out of sight.
    Adel clamps are a pain to size, and a wire can get between the mounting tabs and become broken or shorted. And, they're always too small or too big. OK for hoses, though.
    Don't bother with adhesive-mounts of any kind, unless they have the boss for a screw in the center and you actually screw them in place. I've tried most brands, and cleaned with alcohol or xylene before adhering, and they'll be off in a month or two. If screwed in place, they are a nice low profile, though.
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2021
  5. Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    20210531_161320.jpg 20210531_161320.jpg

    Attached Files:

    Stainless45 likes this.
  6. Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    You should be able to zoom in on these files
  7. Greg Page

    Greg Page Active Member

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    Got it. Thanks.
  8. Greg Page

    Greg Page Active Member

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    I could use the aft bilge pump on indicator wire color/connection at the helm.
  9. Greg Page

    Greg Page Active Member

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    I missed the second page with the terminal strip assignments on my phone when I was in the bilge. That is exactly what I needed.

    BIG Thanks
  10. Davidoc

    Davidoc Senior Member

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    You're welcome.
    Greg Page likes this.