Teak Trim Caps - Cockpit

What year is your Post ?
Do you get any dark streaks from the teak caps after alot of rain ?

I sent you a PM.

That dark mess is from wet wood, I'm afraid.
Before you re-paint the boat, you'll want to see in what shape the core is.

It looks like you have a great looking Post. My feeling is that the teak on the boat is part of its character and should be kept. If you have any place on the boat where you want to remove the wood but want to retain the color, I mixed an Awlgrip color called Fire Me Teak. Merritt Supply can mix it or give out the formula. I painted a strip on the front of the bow that had been painted black when I refinished my teak side rails. From 20 ft. away it looks like teak wood

I removed this on my post 2 seasons ago. My teak was also in bad shape and deteriorating. You can expect to find a bunch of rotted core. On mine, it appeared that there was no effort to seal the core aside from the teak trim and the sealant Post used when attaching the trim. It would have been MUCH better had post completely encapsulated the core with glass.

Its a challenge because it is a horizontally and vertically curved area. I opened mine up, and then used whatever i could (screw drivers, files, etc) to scrape out the fully rotted sections of mushy wood. Then i let the area dry for 3 or 4 weeks. Next I brushed on epoxy to all the exposed wood. followed by thickened epoxy, and pieces of marine ply coated in epoxy and cut to size to fill in all the jigsaw puzzle like areas. When that all cured i went back with thickened epoxy again and built up the area and applied a layer of fiberglass mat (here i made an error). after it all cured, i sanded, filled, sanded, filled, sanded..... until i had the right shape to prep for paint.

The error i made was going too light on the fiberglass mat. i was concerned with making the radius' so i wanted to use light weight mat. i wasn't concerned with structural integrity, i really just wanted to seal the core, so i felt it was sufficient. Well, now i have a couple of stress cracks in various parts of the overhang. If i were to do again (which i'm going to have to eventually) i would build up the area with more mat...over build it.

These pics don't show the rot, but here is a in process pic and one after

Your end result looks pretty nice.

1. I just dug out the rot. The water intrusion seemed to be mainly from where the teak cap was and creeping up in the direction of the bridge deck. I just dug until i hit solid wood all the way across. Some spots were solid to the teak, some areas i dug as much as 6-10" up.

2. I left the the sharp corner. I considered rounding it like the newer posts, but in execution, decided against it.

3. That is just the teak trim painted with one-part paint. The previous owner painted the whole bulkhead with one-part and its starting to peel in multiple places. If you look beneath the starboard bulkhead window you can see a spot where the paint has completely peeled. That's on my list of future projects.

I did a very similar repair around the drain plug of a go fast I once owned. I used a product called CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). I removed the female side of the plug from the transom, dug out all the rot (4" diameter around the plug), filled most of the space with marine ply that I treated with the same product. Reinstalled the female side, drilled a 1/4" hole at the peak of the space and injected epoxy until it flowed out, gel and paint--vwallah

Excellent product

Was that product made by a company called Smith's ?

rotdoctor