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Repowering a 54' Donzi Sportfish

Discussion in 'Donzi/Roscioli Yacht' started by DOCKMASTER, Sep 5, 2019.

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  1. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Looking like she is coming right along Adam. Nice
  2. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Real nice progress, love the attention to detail, the upgrade to the main electrical panel and the resilient mounts under the genset.
  3. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Those resilient mounts under the gen are secondary. There are resilient mounts inside the cover too so it is double isolated. If memory serves Northern Lights calls them auxiliary mounts or something like that. Suppose to further reduce vibration and therefore reduce noise.
  4. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Yes it will, that’s the right way to mount a genset, give it another layer of quietness. I also like to do the same with lift mufflers, putting them on resilient mounts before mounting them to a platform.
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    The new NL options include an alloy box (Jem) and second set of mounts.
    Just installed another 12 & 20 set. Not the answer to all but it does help over the usual set up.
    Down in your installation, should work very well.
  6. mapism

    mapism Senior Member

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    Impressive job indeed.
    Apologies if you already addressed this point and I missed it, but why did you need to cut the aft e/r bulkhead?
  7. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Apologies if you already addressed this point and I missed it, but why did you need to cut the aft e/r bulkhead?

    It's not the E/R bulkhead, it is the aft salon bulkhead. The window opening wasn't large enough to get engines out and in so we had to make the opening taller and a bit wider.
  8. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Speaking of the aft bulk head. Is that small cut out for a fish finder that you had mounted? And where you able hide all wiring inside of the back of the sofa?
  9. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Yes, the opening is for a Simrad NSS-12. It networks in with the other 3 on the bridge. This has been a great addition we did a few years ago. It is used mostly when we are trolling. We put it on split screen and show fish finder/depth and chart plotter. This way we can see what's happening and what's coming to work the downriggers. The bottom counters in our area change rapidly and excessively. This reduces the need to constantly yell down from the bridge.

    When we originally installed it we brought the wire down through the bulkhead where there is a fairly deep void but then had to take a long route to get up to the bridge. The long cable causes it to lose signal occasionally. Now that everything is opened up we will be running a much shorter cable directly over to the port side, up the pillar, above the headliner and straight into the bridge console. The cable will now be half as long. The void between the aft bulkhead and the interior panel is something like 6" deep there. I think Donzi did this to make it easy for them so it could just be a simple flat panel inside.

    I have also asked the team to see if we can fabricate and install a cable chase from the port pillar above the headliner and into the bridge console so we have future ability to run cables if desired. Nothing definitive yet but I really want to do this if we can. The stbd, aft pillar is packed with cables and steering hoses because this is the only way to get in the bridge console unless the headliner is down. I hope to never have to mess with the headliner again. I'm already nervous about getting it restored and looking good.
  10. mapism

    mapism Senior Member

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    Aha, copy that.
    I assumed it was in the e/r 'cause you said that the access cut was "refitted and glassed in", but now I see what you meant, of course.
  11. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    It would be easy enough to create a wiring chase with either pvc pipe or marine sanitation hose. Sanitation hose may be easier as the bends are less sharp so wires tend to follow easier.
  12. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Pipes are ID. Tubes are OD. A 3" pipe can be perhaps 3.5" OD based upon pipe schedule. A 1/2" tube is perhaps 3/8" ID.

    A 3" Thru hull system is not a 3" pipe. In fact given screen restrictions it wouldn't even flow 3" without the output port pinch.
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
  13. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    If spec calls for 3" flow you must oversize the thru-hull to achieve the flow.
  14. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    I'm late to this debate and now choose to shut up.
  15. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    LOL! I sure hope this debate is over and done with. If folks want to continue it I suggest starting a dedicated thread. :):):)
  16. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    You are correct Capt J - a hose is the way to go, just not sure there is enough depth here to do much good. I'll let you know what we come up with and try to get some pictures of whatever we do.
  17. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    Ours is network to the tv in the salon, just not easy to see during the day without salon door open. I may have to look into the way you did it.
  18. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    That's pretty creative. But my TV is on a lift and I keep it retracted in the cabinet whenever we are underway. It also doesn't face the cockpit and with window tint wouldn't do much good.

    Lew, let me know if you want any more details or pictures on this to help you if you decide to do the same.
  19. Donzi 54

    Donzi 54 Member

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    When you can send me a close up shot inside and outside of that cut out and a measurement from the freezer lid. Looking at your earlier salon pictures I think our built in sofa may be a little different on the back then yours Thanks
  20. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Finished the 9kw other than a few final dressing items. We blue fit the new Veem props to the new shafts. Pretty much a perfect fit on both the props and the couplings. It’s nice when everything is CNC machines with standard spec’d tapers. We final torqued the coupling keeper plates and safety tied the bolts.
    Please, please don’t everyone start yelling about the prop nuts. This is just temporary to draw them up for the fit. We will switch the nuts around for final install. BF2C41C0-F217-41E8-8E1F-E6B79B8F207C.jpeg 835D86D6-A5A3-4F22-BCD1-E472FB9D3B96.jpeg FB87E39E-D18F-4C81-A943-C41A2E72FD7B.jpeg D3CBC170-BF4F-4F5F-99E4-ED6B419C8CD1.jpeg 908BF5AB-552B-4D08-91A7-046D2869F56A.jpeg