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Teak - switching from oil, to natural..a few ?'s

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by Fletcher500, Feb 5, 2017.

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  1. Fletcher500, Feb 5, 2017
    #1
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    We have a 3 year old, 44 ft. power boat with exterior teak along the swimstep, and inside the cockpit.

    I have been using Simco, Natural oil, and it looks great for about 2 weeks, then it fades out. The attached pic is the same day after cleaning/oil, but just wanted to show the boats teak.

    It's not a high end boat compared to other 44 ft boats, so the teak thickness is marginal.

    I have read through some teak care articles on the web, but I wanted to run this by this Forum because I know a lot of folks on here deal with teak care, and on boats much more $ than mine.

    1. No hard brushes to remove the Simco stain? A soft sponge, and the weak Oxylate or equivalent solution?

    2. Considering this is not thick teak, is it ok if I lightly sand with a rotary sander?

    3. Can I sand every couple years?

    4. For cleaning it every couple months, what are people using? I have seen salt water mentioned a lot. Any other products out there?

    5. If I follow the above protocol, will the teak have a nice light brown appearance, and not go grey/silver?

    6. Am I reducing the life of the teak by not oiling?

    Thanks in advance.

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  2. Capt J, Feb 5, 2017
    #2
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    You could lightly sand it, but you're going to lose 1/16-1/8" of teak.......closer to 1/8". I would try wetting the deck, using a 3M doodle pad, and sudsy ammonia. SPread it, let it sit 5 minutes maybe 10 (keep it wet), then scrub it across the grain......rinse very well, then use Gary's Golden teak with the same procedure......See how it comes out.
  3. menkes, Feb 6, 2017
    #3
    menkes

    menkes Member

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    from a 40 years of experience in the Mediterranean sun I can contribute to your problem the following:
    1. The best kind of teak is Burmese teak (Tectova Grandis), I hope that is what you have.
    2. the natural colour of Teak is dark orange, not brown.
    3. The best Teak oil is Deks Olie D1 & D2 from France.
    4. First time treatment is scrubbing the teak with medium hard brash across the grain with clean sea water, then you paint it with D1 with 5-6 coats until it stops absorbing the oil, let it dry for few hours.
    5. Between treatments you just wet it with clean sea water every time you can.
    6. Continues consecutive treatments, every six month you scrub the teak with medium hard brash across the grain with clean sea water and then give one or two coats of D1 or better D2

    Don't send it because you might damage the rubber caulking.
    A bit Little disturbing, but worth the effort
    Fell free to call me in private for any questions you have
  4. AMG, Feb 6, 2017
    #4
    AMG

    AMG YF Moderator

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    If you like the natural teak colour, the best is to just keep it clean! Use a 3M Doodlebug, blue or brown, with fresh water across the grain once a week. This is the only secret. Add no oil or coloured stuff...
  5. justold, Feb 6, 2017
    #5
    justold

    justold Member

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    Just a question , where do you find sudsy ammonia ? I have not been able to find it for several years .
  6. Capt J, Feb 6, 2017
    #6
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I get it at any grocery store and it comes in 1/2 gallon plastic containers.
  7. Fletcher500, Feb 6, 2017
    #7
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I know there are different ways to approach this, so its good to hear all sides.
    I will avoid sanding it for now.
    As noted, I am trying to avoid oil, and want to keep it natural.
    If I go the natural method, clean it every few weeks, no oil, will I reduce its overall life span?
  8. AMG, Feb 6, 2017
    #8
    AMG

    AMG YF Moderator

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    If your teak is not very thick, I think it is better to keep it natural and cool instead of dark and hot as it becomes with oil. Should your teak be of a lower quality and dry out, you can always add some oil later...
  9. SeaEric, Feb 6, 2017
    #9
    SeaEric

    SeaEric YF Historian

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    after.jpg before.jpg I like the sudsy ammonia cleaning, allow it to dry, followed by Star-Brite Teak Brightener applied with a wide nylon paint brush. The result is a natural blonde teak color. After and before photos.
  10. Capt J, Feb 6, 2017
    #10
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Yeah, that's how it comes out if you use Gary's Golden Teak 2nd, same as photo's above.
  11. PacBlue, Feb 7, 2017
    #11
    PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Nice work, the perfect result!
  12. Fletcher500, Feb 7, 2017
    #12
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    I have never had teak on past boats, so this is very helpful. I was using Semco oil, and it was not holding up long, especially in the aft area shown where the swim shower is. Between the warm water and sun, the oil is bleeding off the teak.

    So the starbrite No. 2 and other noted Gary product are not oils correct?

    Looks like you still reatain the natural teak color, and some protection from the elements with these?
  13. Capt J, Feb 7, 2017
    #13
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    No they are not oils. The sudsy ammonia cleans everything but turns the teak like a whitish color similar to the second or before photo posted in the pics above, the Starbrite #2 or Gary's Golden teak (which I prefer) then reacts with the teak and turns it the golden color. Doing it this way, you lose almost no grain when you clean the teak compared to all of the 2 part systems like Snappy.

    It's actually marketed as Golden Teak concentrated (the Gary's is in very small letters)
    http://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/product_p/104157.htm
  14. Fletcher500, Feb 7, 2017
    #14
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    Gents, thanks again. I appreciate the input.
  15. SeaEric, Feb 7, 2017
    #15
    SeaEric

    SeaEric YF Historian

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    To be clear, the product that I use after the sudsy ammonia is Starbrite Teak Brightener aka Step 2.

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  16. Capt J, Feb 7, 2017
    #16
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Ohhh and to add, you do either step 2 directly after rinsing the ammonia off really well.
  17. SeaEric, Feb 7, 2017
    #17
    SeaEric

    SeaEric YF Historian

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    I let the deck dry in between.
  18. Fletcher500, Feb 7, 2017
    #18
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    Is Sudsy ammonia or Gary no. 1 strong enough to remove the Semco oil that is on there now?
  19. Capt J, Feb 7, 2017
    #19
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Most likely.
  20. Fletcher500, Feb 10, 2017
    #20
    Fletcher500

    Fletcher500 Member

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    I decided to go the Starbrite 1 and 2 method. My nephew, with the good lower back, is going to become an expert in teak maintenance, even though he doesn't know it yet.
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