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The Upgrade woes...

Discussion in 'Post Yacht' started by PtJudeRI, Mar 23, 2015.

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  1. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    To start with, I never profess to be the smartest man alive; and if I demonstrate that here, please let me know.

    So, as it is with all boats, I have decided to begin updating/repairing/replacing systems that are in need of it. As it's been a long winter, I have been eager to start, with a nice long list in hand of things to do. Some were easy, like replacement hinges, and new mirrors on the heads. Other things have been more challenging.

    The dimmer switches for the salon lights- my 50 has two knob style dimmer switches above the ice maker to control the overhead lights. I pulled out the ice maker (more there in a bit) to access the switches, and I found two soldered doohickeys that look nothing like a light switch. Google tells me they are potentiometers. Ok. So I call Alpha, the company who made it. "Hey, I need a few of your B5k's with a 1.25" thread." "Sorry, we only sell orders of 500 or more." Really? Ok... So I try several other places. All tell me "that looks like a custom part. We can make it, but you'll have to order a few hundred..." That ends that for now.

    Maybe I'll try my luck with the ice maker. It hasn't been getting water to it, so I think the solenoid that controls the valve is shot. So I call U-Line. "Our website can give you all our authorized repair centers..." "You can't tell me over the phone? ". "Use the website..." So on to the website I go. Enter my zip code, and voila! 5 matches. First up, Wickford appliance. I asked if they service u-line ice makers. They do! Great, can I bring it by to fix? "Nope. We only service on site." "It's on my boat". " We don't work on boats..."

    Ok, so you fix them, but I can't bring it to you, and you won't come to me? "Sorry..."

    The next two numbers are no good. The fourth shop can do it, but their tech is out on medical, and they give me the name of a guy who they recommend. Great. Let's try them. I called, and asked about the ice maker repair. Sure, he says. I do them all day long. Great! Can I bring it by to fix? Sure, it shouldn't be more than a week. Awesome! Where are you located? "Sacramento..." Looong pause on my end of the line....


    Is it really this tough to get things done, or do I have a black cloud?? I'm also doing a new fridge and a new tv install, both have been real treats to disassemble so far....

    Anyone have a lead on the dimmer switches?
  2. lovinlifenc

    lovinlifenc Member

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    I found the B5k on ebay in various quantities. I bought a 5pack. Search ebay for b5k potentiometer to view the numerous offerings.
  3. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    I just did. None are as long as the ones I pulled out of the cabinet? Are you using shorter ones?
  4. lovinlifenc

    lovinlifenc Member

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    You could use any length shaft if you use an extension. Of course, as long as the mounting location and method would accommodate it.. This way you can get your project back together and move on to the next instead of searching endlessly for the exact fit.

    There are different approaches to this. Try searching for "potentiometer shaft extender", or "rotary switch extension"
  5. lovinlifenc

    lovinlifenc Member

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    I used them when I rebuilt an old guitar amp last year and found mine on ebay. I ended up epoxying the two shafts together using a copper sleeve.

    You would also need to make sure that if there are additional digits in model number that you use that to determine the specs. The specs should match on whichever you are buying.

    Have you tried mouser online? If you do have the complete model number then someone there should be able to find a solution that works.
  6. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    It looks as though I need to find a different way to mount it. The threading on these is almost 2"and the shaft 2.75 or so... So I need a way to rear mount the pot so it will stay put. The original used nuts on the threading to clamp onto the teak cabinet.

    The only writing on it is B5k. And alpha.... But alpha didn't even know a model #
  7. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Are these potentiometers dead? If not you could unsolder any wires going to them and with a test meter set to measure resistance (OHMS) rotate the pot through a full back and forth swing starting with it at one end, you will see the resistance either climb or fall. Once you have the maximum resistance figure you can use any potentiometer that has the same characteristics to get the same result.

    These guys seem to have a range for sale individually. http://www.jameco.com/1/3/alpha-b5k-potentiometer.
  8. Chasm

    Chasm Senior Member

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    Here is how I usually search for electronic parts.

    Specialized search engine: octopart.com
    Then buying where I have an account. Many of them sell single items to individuals, the usual suspects (Digi-key, Mouser, newark aka farnell aka element14, RS Components, TME, ...) certainly do.
    (Unless you live in Germany, then you often have to be a company or student to deal with them. No commercial register number and tax ID? No business.)

    If that does not help Google will usually find something. In case of partial part numbers the picture search can also help to ID parts better.

    I also search directly where I buy, local companies and even national chains are not listed on octopart.
    Then there is a small company which will source obscure parts in small quantities at acceptable prices.


    -----
    The potentiometer is not the full dimmer.
    There are more electronics behind it.
    -----

    The part is a potentiometer. Buying the same part as direct replacement obviously works. But any replacement which fits the electrical and mechanical requirements will do.

    One of the standard marking schemes translates to:
    B: linear
    5k: 5k Ohm resistance (5000 Ohm)

    It has to fit mechanically.
    Diameter and length of the shaft are important. Easy to cut down if needed, much harder to add. Also the type of shaft. (Round, flat side, knurled, ...)
    Mount type, is most likely panel mount (washer and nut). The diameter is dependent on the shaft and pretty standard but may differ.
    Then the electrical connection, probably solder lugs.

    Important but not too obvious: Power rating.
    The ones linked above are 1/8 to 1/2 watt. Without full part number you can try to deduce this from physical size. If in doubt use the higher rated of the same size. Prices are not that different.

    Then there are also additional features like integrated switches. Those are pretty rare but certainly a possibility with dimmers.
  9. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    Here are the images of the "switch". There is electrical wire soldered directly to the switch, which goes back into the nether regions behind the cabinet and into the aft bulkhead. Ill try to see if this leads to another component when I go down tomorrow. For now, everyone I emailed on this pot has told me that this is a custom part.

    It does have an integrated "On/Off" switch with it (the black section on the back) and the measurements are in MM if anyone was wondering.

    ADMIN EDIT: 5 oversize images have been removed. I have reduced one and attached it. Please read our rules regarding image size.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 6, 2019
  10. Chasm

    Chasm Senior Member

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    Long bushing, that makes things a bit more complex.
    That the potentiometer is ganged with a switch does not add much further excitement.

    If we ignore the bushing length for a moment, quite possibly:
    Alpha (Taiwan) RV24A01F-10-15R1-B5K-3

    Should tick most boxes including the markings and layout on the back, BUT the bushing is way too short. (6.5mm)


    At that point I would ask myself If I just want to OR of have to replace.
    Then I'd think about switching parts around. Usually thats not too hard. Bend open, switch innards, bend closed. If the new innards don't fit go back.

    3 of them from mouser.com within the US for ~$11 USPS snail or ~$15 UPS/Fedex, not too bad for an experiment. Start training with the additional new one. ;)
    Double check first if yours are really 5k Ohm tough. Where three pins are in a row the two outer ones should read about 5000 Ohm with a multi meter. (+/- 20%)
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2015
  11. about time

    about time Member

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    countersink the back of the cabinet with a hole saw, any length bushing will do
  12. jrp4783

    jrp4783 Member

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    What kind of fridge are you going to replace with existing one with? Are there products out there that will fit in the same opening? I'm thinking that's going to be my next thing that goes as the compressor is sounding a bit loud...
  13. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    I have been looking at a few from GE and whirlpool. The size is 28" wide, 64" tall, and 30-31.5" deep. Once you find something that fits, you're golden. I'm choosing one with no ice maker and wire racks. More freezer space, no chance of breaking the shelves, and it's cheaper.
  14. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    Finding a fridge to fit in the space is a big challenge.

    Ruby has recent experience with the fridge dance.
  15. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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  16. ruby

    ruby Member

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    It was a dance I don't want to be reminded of Lou, LOL..
  17. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    Did the fridge dance. Got it all installed, had to lift it on mahogany rails to make up for the shorter height.
  18. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    image.jpg
  19. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    Also got the new salon TV installed. Used the existing space with the teak bullnose to keep the lines somewhat normal. Added a DVD player and Apple TV. Came out quite good if I do say so. Now I just have to add the lexan below.
  20. PtJudeRI

    PtJudeRI Senior Member

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    Here is the TV setup
    image.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: May 17, 2015