Zincs?

I used a 6 x 12 plate without slots. I had two stainless studs through the hull that I drilled the plate to match.

And since you're in Jersey - I'm in Jersey, maybe we could make a deal
I still have at least one plate, several shaft zincs and a bunch of rudder and trim tab zincs left from my boat. 1 3/4" shafts

My 46 1991 uses the CAMP DP-1. Here are the dimensions. http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Camp_DP1_Divers_Dream_Zinc_Plate.html
I know the water is cold but you might have to jump in.

Huh? I've always used stainless studs that were bonded and never had a problem.

https://mgduff.co.uk/support/fitting-instructions/wooden-and-grp

Post built it with stainless studs and I continued with them. I used bronze were it was appropriate, all the hardware when I replaced my rudder ports and other below water items etc.

The link above does not suggest you cannot use stainless studs to attach the 'divers dream hull plate.
And near the bottom it would seem the writer contradicts himself.

Bronze and Stainless Steel Rudders, Rudder Hangings and Shaft. Brackets should also be bonded to the main anodes.

Trim Tabs should be protected with separate anodes.

Do not bond the same anode to ferrous and non-ferrous metals or stainless steel. Steel Rudders must be protected with separate anodes.

On my boat the transom plate was bonded to everything, including the prop shaft which was connected to the trans with a cast iron coupling.

A few years ago, I switched to Zimar zincs, over Camp. I have found them to last longer and be better quality for a comparable price. Agreed on a 6x12x1/2 diver plate: https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/sp50-zimar-plate-zinc-anode

The reason to not use SS studs vs bronze is simple crevice corrosion. If the SS studs are wet in the hull, they will simply waste due to depleted oxygen corrosion. The same occurs where the minute amount of water is trapped in the thread area where nuts thread on studs. In a practical sense, it takes years for there to be appreciable damage or the incidence of a diver twisting off a weakened stud. That is why wooden boat fastenings are either silicon bronze or galvanized. The fastenings all waste over time in wet wood, but SS is lost faster.
If the SS studs are really bogged in with a good adhesive sealant, (5200, e.g.) there will be no water to corrode the portion going through the transom or hull. Stainless is a very good electrical conductor, as are either steel or chrome, the primary SS ingredients. Stainless is very susceptible to corrosion in areas where the oxygen has been depleted in the sea water or the water is stagnant. One area where it is becoming more common is on stainless prop shafts behind dripless seals on vessels that don't see much use. There's a downside to most things, so run your engines at least twice a month to force water into the shaft logs.
Zimar makes very nice zincs and corrode in a much more uniform way than others. I've used them in the past and was very impressed with the appearance. I have heard that some "zincs" are actually alloys of different metals so they may be effective in different salinities in intertidal areas. Seattle has many boats shifting locations between the lakes and the Sound, and it used to be that "zincs" were changed to aluminum anodes, but that practice has declined because "zincs" seem to be effective in the lakes. The measure of zinc effectiveness is basically marine growth. If there is growth on the anode: it's not working. That can be because of poor bonding continuity, or the wrong anode material or metallurgy. An alloy anode of a mixture of zinc and aluminum will work well in salt or fresh. The down side is they "work" faster and must be changed more in salt water. Expect restrictions on zincs in the future, since there is often cadmium in zinc anodes, which is a restricted heavy metal.

ALL hardware for transom plate zincs is always stainless due to strength and corrosion resistance from what I've seen. The stainless bolts are 5200'd into the transom with one nut and washer that's never touched then the zinc and then another washer and nut. I have never seen a problem with it effecting how the bonding wires transfer to the zinc mounted on the other side.