Salon Window Replacement - Sliding to Fixed

My winter project, delayed from this crazy winter, was to change the three window setup to two fixed. I planned it to be as simple as I could and did it all myself. I don't feel it was all that hard if you are comfortable doing your own projects.

I didn't have to build anything new or modify anything structural. I used the same single track that POST did and used the outermost track all the way around. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get the pics to show good detail. Sorry.

Steps:
1. Removed the trim panels above the windows
2. I did NOT remove the large header piece that is screwed and bedded into place. Not needed.
3. There is a small 1/2" square trim piece on the header that holds the center and front top window tracks in place. This trim has screws and bedding compound holding it. A chisel, hammer, and screwdriver got it out in an hour or two.
4. The top tracks have nails in them and adhesive. You can try a dremel to cut them out or chisel or break the windows out. Doesn't really matter. You want the glass and tracks out all the way around.
5. On the bottom especially, I cleaned up the whole track area, epoxied it to seal from water, and painted all the way around.
6. I was able to reuse the single track I had because I had replaced one whole side several years ago so it was still decent. If your's is original, you will need to buy new. It is very brittle from the UV.
7. I installed the bottom single track and the front and back track all about a 1/4" from the outer edge.
8. Split the window length in half and made templates from Home Depot hardboard. I ended up using a 1"gap between the windows in order to install. The aft window has to go in first because of the 3-4" corner piece overlapping the window. The front piece then goes in and needs this inch to slide forward into the track. The tops tracks are not really doing anything at this point but sitting on the glass. You will need to make a new trim piece to screw into the top rail to hold the track in place. I used screws against the track to hold it in place until I can make the new trim piece.
9. My theory with this install is that the windows go in and come out (if ever broken) with the top tilting in.
10. Local glass company made the glass from the templates with 1/4" laminated.
11. Once the new glass was in and the top track held in place, I used 4 tubes of Boat Life Black silicone to seal the 1/4" gap around the whole window. To me, this was BY FAR the hardest part of the project. Getting caulk to look smooth is so darn hard. Definitely blue tape around the fiberglass when caulking and remove the tape before it sets. Nice clean line. You can tape the glass too but a razor blade cleans up the glass after it had cured pretty easily.
12. The 1" center gap - to make it watertight for now, I taped a piece of wood with waxed paper covering it on the inside. Caulked from the outside and smoothed with a putty knife. The waxed paper actually worked to remove the board pretty easily. That was a total guess.
13. I'm planning to install a piece of aluminum 1/8" bar stock, black powder coated, on the outside with silicone to protect the seam. Any other ideas?
14. Bought 5% window tint from Ebay and tinted the windows on Saturday. A bit of a challenge but not too bad.

Cost - the glass was $1500. Seemed high to me but who knows. Paint, epoxy, track, tint - $3-400. So around a $2k job doing it yourself.

Hope this helps anyone thinking about tackling it. Mark

Few more pics.

Last pic, I have two 30" stainless weatherstrips that I had replaced 5 or so years ago. If someone needs them as a direct replacement for what you have now, let me know. I can mail to you. Still is decent shape.

If I understand you correctly, then you are installing the glass from the outside? Can be done, but you will have to build some kind of mounting lip all the way around to seal the glass too. At 12'+ long, that would be a heavy, huge piece of glass to work with. I also thought using the current track setup allows some give and flexibility. Mounting a single piece inside the opening seems to me like it could crack easier. You also have to think about making it look decent from the inside. You may have to fabricate panels to cover the new mounting lip all the way around?

From the inside, this way turned out nice with the windows tinted dark. The caulk blocks the light from getting behind the aft sloping area. So from the inside it looks like the glass is blacked out around the opening. All you see is the caulk line slightly.

Shawn - how did you handle\cover the seam? Inside and outside? I just ordered aluminum 1/8" x 1.5". Hoping I can black powder coat it and silicone on. Not structural, just covering the seam with something shiny black that will hopefully last a while.

If you were referring to my question, I only meant the vertical seam between the glass. Did you just fill with caulk or actually cover it with metal\plastic inside and\or outside?

You are referring to using the single plastic track on each window edge? I have about an inch to cover so that may not work. I also want to have it black so it all blends. Thanks for the response. I'll keep that in mind.

For anyone with the sliding salon windows, I still have these two stainless weather strips in my garage, that I may throw out soon. Good shape if you need replacements.