Has anyone ever replace the sewage lines on a 50? My master stateroom line popped off and it’s as hard as a rock. Time for new just not sure what i am getting into.
New sewage lines are pretty stiff also. The white ones, you need to heat them with a heat gun in order to get them on the nipple. You just pull the hoses through, it's not hard, best to connect the new hose to the old hose and pull it through. Use ABA or AWAB hose clamps.......
I have replaced them before, always used lube. I am just thinking these are probably original and time for a refresh. Wondering is anyone has any specific advice on how frustrating replacing them in a 50 was/ is.
It depends what you're comparing it to and where the boat is located. If you have the chance to flush the holding tank several times (and pump it out) before doing the job, It's not terrible. The runs aren't that long. Given how stiff your hoses are, you're going to probably have to cut the old ones into 3' sections to get them in a contractors bag and off of the boat. I'd highly recommend having the yard do them BEFORE you replace the carpet!!!! That way if you drip any in the process of changing them, no harm no foul. And, inevitably you always end up dripping some no matter how careful you are. You're going to want to heat them well with a heat gun before taking the old ones off, and putting the new ones on, otherwise it's really easy to crack an old plastic fitting or the poly tank itself if they don't come off and go on easy. The odorsafe Sealand is easier to make bends with than the other brands. The smell is the worst part of the job.
I hired someone to replace ours and was happy to do so. We are in Rhode Island -‘s rates aren’t the lowest. To replace all the black water lines was $2500. Removing the lines to the heads is the hardest part as I believe the head has to come off the floor.
What is your description of "popped off" ? Where did it pop off? You say the master stateroom, so can we assume it popped of the head and not the tank? Is your master forward or midship? The waste tank is usually located forward. So if your facility is also forward you have a fairly easy run for that hose if it really needs to be replaced, rather than reattached. And Seth is correct the heads need to be unbolted from the floor to get to the hose end, but that's only a matter of undoing 2 lag bolts.
Not a Post, not a 50.... but I replaced all of our sewage lines. Common recommendation is to use either Trident 101/102 (one black, the other white, both stiff as a board) or Raritan's SaniFlex.... both types apparently equal in lifespan relative to permeation. I used SaniFlex and it's very flexible, very easy to work with. Slightly higher cost per linear foot, very minor detail. -Chris
Why are people changing out their sanitary lines? IMO, unless they are leaking or weeping an odor they are fine. On a dry section of the hose twist a clean rag around its OD as though you are trying to undo a tight jar cap. After a couple of twists pull the rag away and take a whiff. If the rag has a strong odor of effluent than the hose may be deteriorating. If no odor, why change it? Do it on as many areas of the hose you think sufficient to get a good "reading" BTW don't use the same rag for all the wipes
Thanks for the input guys especially for the price Seth. I’m hoping to get the yard to do it but they are not thrilled. My main concern is if there is zip tie type hangers holding it so when I go to pull it through it potentially gets caught. The line actually came off the toilet in the starboard side master head. Some urine on the floor, I have seen worse messes though. I have always replaced the lines when I buy and old boat.
Everything in the run should be accessible on your boat via through the toilet opening and center bilge access.
Why do you replace the hoses is they are not failing in some manner? Mine have been there since 1998 and I've had no issues? Just curious.
Well, I guess I never gave it much thought. Usually I have done new heads as they are tired then I do the lines for good measure trying to reduce/ eliminate smells. I guess if it’s not broke no need to fix but these like look pretty tired. Hoses, clamps, other stuff just makes me feel better about being fresh. I’ve done the vacuflush route trying to eliminate waste in the actual lines but I gotta say raritan has earned my business and then some. Great service, easy installs and when I leave the boat I flush a couple times to try and clear the line so the waste is not sitting in lines.
I use Sew Clean once a year. Expensive and I'm looking for a generic equivalent. Cleans the scale from inside the hoses. Crazy what bubbles up as it cleans. Far cheaper than replacing hoses and I would suggest that first before replacement. Unless you are getting odor through the hose. Most of us don't think about maintenance on the hoses but they do need it with the scale build up. Especially without a vacuum system to empty them.
Trac told me Sew Clean is the same as Barnacle Buster but without some of the extra "marine" additives that BB has. And they dilute at different proportions; IIRC one is 1:5 and the other is 1:4, don't remember which is which. Reviewing the MSDS for each may help you work out potential generic substitutes. I had good luck once clearing a complete scale clog using BB -- happened to be what I had on hand -- so that was good. Hose replacement for clogs usually not at all necessary. SC/BB is not at all useful for treating permeated hoses, though (nor is it advertised to do that). Hoses can permeate; that's failure. If yours haven't, good... but it's apparently not uncommon. When I replaced our hoses, it was partly because they were bordering on permeation (17 years old at the time), but more because I was also replacing the holding tank too (for more capacity) and changing the connection plan at the tank (from side mounted to top mounted). Making that connection change increased our capacity even more. -Chris
See above. For me, regular inspection and replacement of hoses leading from an open seacock are my targets. Especially checking for chafing in those unseen areas where inspection requires a scope and an unended arse.
The hoses are 20 years old, they're way past their expected lifespan just from an AGE and safety perspective. The OP had a hose blow off the draining end of the toilet and is super stiff and cannot even get it all of the way back on the nipple.
So your not volunteering to help beau? Haha. If I get them out I’ll let you know what kind of shape they are in that may be helpful you you in the future if you have any issues.
TY Alzira for that kind offer. Lemme know what you find. I have heard that running a bleach solution thru the lines and wearing house hold style rubber gloves and safety googles is a good precaution. Remember Jaws when they put that menthol (?) under their noses during the autopsy?