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Burger Teak deck repair or replace?

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by TGUN, Aug 26, 2023.

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  1. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    I am New to this forum but here goes. I own a 81 ft 1972 Burger RPH. Teak decks are failing. Looking for advise on best way to either restore the existing decks or replace with something better.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  2. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    I replaced the worn teak in my cockpit with Flexiteak two years ago. I’m very happy with the result. In fact I added more and did the flybridge, swim platform and gunnels.
  3. SplashFl

    SplashFl Active Member

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    IMO the less exterior wood (of any kind) the better but not familiar with your boat so can not offer specific opinion. When teak failed in previous spt. fish I replaced it (cockpit deck) with a pre made fiberglass deck as under the teak was plywood that was also failing. In current boat, tore up all the teak, refinished the fiberglass that was under it with the end product Awlgrip with combination fine & course non skid. After reviewing video's of the Rybovich yard, it appears there is nothing better then teak if your looking for longevity and the look of wood.
  4. classic

    classic Member

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    Tom,

    I know some will get upset with me but when you have an older yacht don't change anything. bite the bullet if you can replace it don't change it. it will hurt in resale I don't how much teak you have can't you do it in sections.

    best of luck.
  5. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Stick to the real stuff. Problem with non skid is that everytime someone steps on it, they track dirt… we have a teak aft deck on the boat I run and non skid top deck and foredeck. Constantly have to clean up footprints on the non skid.
    f3504x4ps likes this.
  6. SplashFl

    SplashFl Active Member

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    I solved that issue with Gray Awlgrip on the bridge.
  7. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    Much depends on what you mean by failing. If there is water coming through the deck; there is real trouble ahead. I know of one Burger of the same size and vintage that was horribly deteriorated after spending a lot of time in Mexico with lots of sun and rain. That boat was brought to San Diego and went to the yard to have the teak removed and the deck painted. It was the proverbial Pandora's box because the construction method is very difficult to work around. On this yacht, the teak deck was laid with black deck mastic like the material that makes up the black separation stripes on the deck, and was then screwed into the underlayer and the screw holes are bunged with teak plugs. What becomes a problem is the removal of the teak from the underlying marine plywood deck. Attempting to scrape the teak off will certainly take some layers of plywood with it. Another thing is if there is water intrusion into the plywood, there could be rot and the need to replace the plywood. That can turn into opening the headliner underneath When looking for someone to do the job, I would suggest finding the most experienced and qualified shipwright to do the job. A careful approach with foreknowledge of what lies beneath will save time and expense. A low bid can spiral out of control with lots of collateral damage. Regardless of installing new teak or fairing and painting, an additional deck layer must be applied. The teak actually is integral to the strength of the deck.
  8. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    I am inclined to agree with you about keeping it original. I have done this throughout the boat including brightwork. Lotsa work but truly beautiful.I wanted to ask if anyone has sanded the decks flat again removed the fasteners(screws) counter sunk and screwed back in flush and new teak plug. My decks seem to have a lot thickness of wood left. Just the plugs have fallen out due to sanding and cleaning over the last fifty plus years.I know this will be time consuming but I'm committed and have the time.Your thoughts and advise is welcomed
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2023
  9. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    AGREED!
  10. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    The sundeck of your teak is plywood, and that's going to be rotting given leaks. Below that is aluminum plating that does not create a complete layer. I stripped my deck, removed the plywood, cleaned and coated the aluminum, and then re-decked with marine plywood (resin coated) and topped it with Nydacore panels that had fiberglass pre-laminated. We cut the panels into place and then ground and fiberglass taped the seams. The edges were sealed with 5200, and all was fared and painted with non skid. The result was a dry deck, no maintenance, and far less heat transferred to the staterooms below. I love teak decks. I don't like the maintenance, and mine was shot.
  11. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    IMG_5365.JPG
  12. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    you could remove a few screws in various spots and try to see how much teak is left.

    another material to consider is Coosa. The aft deck on my 1970 Hatteras 53 had issues including delamination and bad core. Instead of cutting the upper layer, dig out the core etc, I sanded the paint off, epoxied a layer of glass cloth, 3/4” coosa, more cloth than then painted. Basically building a new deck using the old one as a mold. Turned out pretty good. Personally I would not use plywood with so many non rotting options nowadays
  13. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    IMG_5296.JPG
    Bethany1 likes this.
  14. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    If the teak is shot, really good chance the substrate plywood is gone as well. The teak is not going to be salvaged if the plywood needs to be replaced. You can strip the ceiling in these areas and inspect the plywood from beneath, as you can see from the photo. I simply made the decision to actually spend less, do it right, and avoid the battle of care going forward.
  15. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    What year and model is your boat? Had not idea it was built like that. I willl need to investigate further it seems. Thank You
  16. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    I will do that and let you folks no what I find. I like your Nydacore panel idea. its lighter then Coosa board. How did you fasten down the Nydacore. Could it be used in place of the marine plywood?
  17. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    Mine is 1980. I saturated the ply in resin, bedded it w 5200 as well as fastened it with screws to the aluminum. Provided a solid and complete surface to bed the nydacore with 5200. No fasteners. Glassed the seams.
  18. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

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    ….butted the sheets together with cabosil, used same to infill under the cleats or any other gaps. Took the opportunity to have the windlass refurbished. New hatch, new teak trim for both.
    SWF likes this.
  19. PPD

    PPD Member

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    I have one soft spot by the port aft deck wing door that I will have to cut into. Thankfully a previous owner removed the teak decks on Antilles and seemingly did a solid job glassing the deck back in and painting it, other than the color. When I cut this section out I will probably use coosa - it's a small section. Bow Deck 1.jpg
  20. TGUN

    TGUN Member

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    Are you strapped down good for the storm?