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Winterizing

Discussion in 'Bertram Yacht' started by cjspga, Oct 20, 2010.

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  1. cjspga

    cjspga New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2010
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Smith Point Marina, Reedville, Va
    It's time to winterize the boat and before I attempted to do this myself I figured I should make sure I know what the heck I am doing.

    We have a 1973 28ft with 318ci Chryslers. can anyone explain to me just how easy or complex - winterizing the boat - is. She will be out of the water on the boat lift.

    Also, the Port motor runs a little hotter than Starboard - about 10 -15 deg. The guy down the inlet tells me it is probably the impeller and I should change them both. Does this makes sense to you guy's and again - just how big of a job is it to do - myself.

    Thanks for any advice you can give. - Chris..
  2. m2m

    m2m Senior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2006
    Messages:
    108
    Location:
    newport ri
    It's realtively easy to winterize the engines. Just close the thru hull, take the top off of the sea strainers start the engine and pour anti freeze (-50 is fine) into the sea strainer and keep pouring until a good amount comes out of the exhaust then open the thru hull. Note do this while the boat is in the lift. Next drain you water tanks by running the faucets until no water comes out, dump a couple of gallons into the water tank and run the water again until you get antifreeze coming out of the spigots. If you have a head dump a couple of gallons into the head and flush , this will clear the sanitation lines and winterize the holding tank. I also like to dump a gallon of antifreeze into the deck water fill in case there is a low spot in the fill line that may hold water. Use the non-toxic antifreeze for all of the systems.
  3. Mark I

    Mark I Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    Messages:
    123
    Location:
    Long Island/Pompano Beach
    Yes the impeller change makes sense.

    Also, do an oil change before layup and check the condition of your antifreeze in your heat exchangers. Change if necessary.
  4. Mullide

    Mullide New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Most manuals call for fogging the carb until the motor stops. I have tried this several times on several boats, but I have never been able to kill the engine with the fogger. The engine just keeps on running. Manuals would have you pull each spark plug and spray the fogger into the cylllander. While this can't hurt, I have found it may not really be necessary. This is a great time to replace oil and filters, water separator, fuel filter, belt, and spark plugs.

    Replacing impellers is a good idea. It can be difficult the first time, but you will be much more confident knowing where they are and how they work. I believe it to be worth it to do this yourself at least once.

    Also, take a good look at all hoses and clamps below the waterline. It's a great time to replace any that need it. The knowledge you will gain of the systems and the location of parts is very valuable.
  5. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,432
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    You have to shut the fuel supply off when you are fogging the carb, in order for the motor to shut off. Or it helps. I would also add to put a very good fuel stabilizer in the fuel system, and run engines for 10-20 minutes after adding the stabilizer so that it works it's way through the entire fuel system.