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Schematics needed for electrical system; 2013 AZIMUT 48'

Discussion in 'Azimut Yacht' started by Bill Schatzow, Aug 3, 2019.

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  1. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    I have a friend that purchased a used 48'. I am an electronic engineer and know how to read schematics. It doesn't seem like the schematics included in the manual are a match for his boat. Most of the wire numbers do not match so it makes troubleshooting difficult. Reading here it seems that this is typical for this yacht.

    If some one can help to point me to where to start on some of his issues I would appreciate it.
    1. The autopilot on the flybridge is blank (no power ?). Doesn't appear easy to remove as it is screwed in from the back and it has no access panel. Any know how to get to the back? If no power, where is it getting it power from?

    2. The grill control is fried. I assume the breaker is in the engine room. Don't understand why the breaker would not have tripped first? Can't read the part number of the control. Does anyone have the correct part number or a suitable substitute?

    3. He had a light short in on of the cabins that took out a fuse. Never had a light fail shorted! Could not believe DC fuse box is in the Master bedroom with paneling screwed in covering it! Also manual has no mention of fuse or breaker box location. Does anyone know of 24v LEDs that will fit this boat, or do I need to modify the mounting?
    Thank you. I am not a boat guy, (I was in aerospace power systems) and never expected to see the lack of details in an expensive yacht.
  2. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Welcome to Yacht Forums.

    Welcome to the headaches of Muts.
    Sadly, there are no correct prints. It was ad-lib assembly and installs at the factory by different teams during construction.

    Lots of aspirin and an audible wire tracer will help you trace wires.

    There are some Mut fans here on YF that may pop in with some where & how suggestions.
    Give them time.

    Please search all the past threads and you will understand the difference between the boat and the manuals.
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
  3. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    Thanks. I have been searching. This is what frustrates me. It is unbelievable that a boat can be released from manufacturing without reliable repair manuals and schematics.
    Any idea how to get the autopilot out? It looks like it was bolted from the back prior to the flybridge assembly.
  4. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I m not familiar with Mutts (tried hard to stay away...).

    AP: some autopilot controls have little plastic inserts at the corners that pop up to reveal the screws. That said if it has no power I d look at the power source before assuming the AP is bad. Also most AP have a control box, and ECU, mounted somewhere, with a fuse. Usually it s the ECU that’s bad not the controls head

    Every grill I ve seen has a straightforward power feed (usually 220v) which goes thru a safety switch that shuts the grill should the cover be closed (thru a rod). The switch is a basic switch which should be easy to replace. Pull the switch and look for marking

    Ceiling lights are pretty standards, just measure the hole size
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    What brand of A P and Grill?
  6. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    The Ap is Raymarine st6002. From the installation instructions it shows two screws that are nutted from the back of the unit. I was told that power is feed to both the flybridge AP and the main from the same source. The main works. I wanted to get to the flybridge back to see if maybe the connector came loose.

    I did not see a model number on the Grill. The back side of the grill has a name plate that gives the rating. It says 240v AC, 6.5 A. I could not read the back of the controller. It says 240V AC 15 A. 6 wire, 2 from power, 2 to load and 2 to light. It is a 6 position switch 0 -5.

    I have not been able to find dimmable 24V LEDs. A lot of 12 V. Changing the incoming power to 12V is a mess due to had it is wired to a dimmer controller. I may just use two 12 v in series.
  7. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    Looks like the grill controller is a Invensys. Robertshaw has a universal replacement that amazon sells for $15.00.
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    The RayMarine heads use a plugin cable they call SeaTalk. 3 pin, semi flat that carries power and a data signal.
    They do come un-plugged if not properly installed.
    Also as any other electronic devise, they also die.
  9. YachtForums

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  10. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    Thanks. Can't get to the one on the flybridge without cutting a hole. The one that is a working has an access panel. What a crazy assembly!
  11. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    Sometimes have to step back and think "inside" the box. Can another device be removed, like the radar, plotter, engine control panel, etc. to enable reaching the backside? Sometimes, it's necessary to remove one item to access rear fasteners of another item to be able to access the third item. It may seem unnecessarily inconvenient from a service viewpoint, but essential to the designers aesthetic viewpoint.
  12. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    This is on the flybridge. I have looked and what little is installed here were installed from the back. There is nothing on this boat that was made with consideration of maintenance that is required.
  13. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    It was installed some how. Does the whole dash flip back or up?
    Send us some pictures please.
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    That's why service people usually do not like muts.
  15. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    If it was installed from the back there must be access. electronics are installed last so it s not like a water heater, generator whic would have been installed before deck or cabinetry

    There has to be an access hatch somewhere or a way to flip portion of the helm
  16. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    It looks like the dash is one large piece that is screwed and chalked. A lot of work to remove. Much less work to make an access panel. No assembly drawings, no schematics or schematics that don't match what was installed. I am new to looking at yachts and I can't believe that lack of requirements that there industry has. My experience was in aerospace and the flow down to my company from the jet manufacturers was tightly controlled. We were not allowed to change anything without detailed change notice. Which detailed the change, added a revision and changed all of the drawing packages.

    I am surprised that a class action suit wasn't filled against the manufacturer! I can't believe that this is a acceptable practice in the industry.
  17. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I tried to warn you that lots of aspirin would be required.
    Don't get to wound up or you may end up drying out in a padded room some where special..

    Try to call Marine Max and get thru to a warranty tech. Maybe they can offer some light.
    Warranty tech may need some pictures also.

    No telling what your going to drill or cut thru trying to blindly make an access.
  18. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    We pick on Da Muts because of threads like this.
    However, there some other mfg's that can test your nerve also.

    As long as there are meatheads out there without a clue and a fat check book, these types of recreational products will always be delivered as such.
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
  19. d_meister

    d_meister Senior Member

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    Too late to change the industry. As has been noted, the gear is installed somehow. Maybe reevaluate basic assumptions, i.e; fastened from the back. Maybe one of the devices is simply fitted with adhesive?
    Ralph is right; blasting holes through panels could damage what's inside. A lot of small components are gooped to surfaces. Not cool to run a hole saw through them or wires.
  20. Bill Schatzow

    Bill Schatzow New Member

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    I used an endoscope camera after removing the lighter outlet and can see the knobs on the device. This matches the st6002 installation instructions. Again it looks like everything was mounted to the flybridge prior to assembly. The main helm below has access panes to get all the instruments.

    I can see everything with the camera and there is not much there. Lighter, ST6002 and engine control. I was going to cut an access panel on the side below the st6002 with a vibrating saw that I can easily control the depth.

    If anyone has a better idea I would love to hear it.

    My friend that owns the boat has called marine max and as of yet they have not offered any ideas on how to remove the Ap.

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