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Rudder Boxes

Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by Redhook98, Jul 9, 2008.

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  1. Redhook98

    Redhook98 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Colonial Beach, VA
    Well, after the large amount of water noted during my maiden voyage (as outlined in a previous post), and another trip a few weeks ago almost sank the boat.... I figured it was time to seriously look at the rudder boxes.

    I had the boat pulled after attempting to loosen the packing nuts. Torqueing the nuts would flood the bilge, so I rightly figured there was something amiss.

    Both ruddeer boxes were shot (as also stated in a previous post). I did not realize how badly until I started to pound out the rudders and the port box went through the hull. DOH! Suddenly my idea for $2.00 worth of packing and refloating the boat was not a viable alternative anymore.

    Rust was from the inside out. Not from issues outside the hull. Apparently these have been leaking for a LONG time. I knew there may have been an issue when I saw they had mounted zincs INSIDE the bilge. No, really.

    Contacted a local marine wlder to check out the hull. (Still no survey here). Except for the area aft of the struts, the hull is in great shape.

    He is going to re-plate the entire area aft of the struts, from edge to edge, build stainless-steel rudder boxes, and recondition my rudders. All for the one time only low price of $2500.00. Reasonable???

    I will probably disconnect my CAPAC as well and just replace the zincs. ALL of my zincs were isolated from the hull with barrier coating and paint. They last a long time that way! What do you guys do for zincs/CAPAC?????? Do any of you have both zincs and use the CAPAC??
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2008
  2. alloyed2sea

    alloyed2sea Moderator

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2004
    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Alex, VA
    TO zinc,...

    ..., or not to zinc.
    Use Sealloy bars from Marinette Yachts (http://www.marinette.com/) myself.
    Here, upriver on the Potomac, the water is fresh.
    At Colonial Beach, perhaps a bit of salt, no?
    In any case, sealloy is actually lo-grade aluminum: just "noble" enuff to sacrifice itself to the hull; especially in region where the Nibral props & low-grade Iron rudders play a role.:eek:
    See them here:
    http://www.marinette.com/rparts08a.htm
    Bolted them to the "keel" with SS fasteners in that area, and up front where something strange was happening.
    Then, cut small sections and atttached them to the rudders & trim tabs as well. Really work great.:p
    Recommend SS rudders if the wallet allows (my next upgrade): otherwise, go to http://www.chrisparts.com/rudders_struts_etc.htm - ask for Jim Wyck -- and go from there.
    Marinesalesparts.com is also a good (expensive) choice.
    Hope all goes well.
    Cheers!
    Eric
    "Tin Tonic"
    (whosestarboardside454isstillintheshopgettingrebuiltgoddammit)
    PS - Also know a very (very) good mobile welder who redid my rudder posts; if you'd like to know just private message me.

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  3. Redhook98

    Redhook98 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Colonial Beach, VA
    Eric,

    Good to hear from ya. When are you going to come down and check out the boat?

    I used Sealloy on my Marinette. I moved from a 32-ft Marinette to the Roamer.

    Yes, I am in brackish water here. I have 8 Martyr CM-25's that I am installing on the keel (back to back using SS hardware). I will probably keep the CAPAC hooked up as well to see how the combo works out. One of those silver-silver chloride test kits should tell me if it is working properly or not. New zincs on the shafts and the rudders. The trim tabs never had them and have zero corrosion/rust on them. Why change as good thing.

    Does the CAPAC autmatically adjust for conditions? (i.e. water temp, zincs on hull, etc)????

    Is your CAPAC still hooked up? Is that what is causing your issues up forward? Mine dipped in to the high protect area and bubbled paint. But taht may have been because of the extra non-attached zincs in the proximity of the CAPAC anodes.

    My rudders actually appear to be SS already. The rudder shafts definatly are. The pitting on the rudders themselves is black and looks consistant with SS rusting. They are being reconditioned for me. In good shape except for the leading edges. Again, the zincs on the rudders were isolated with barrier coating. Doh!!!

    Should have it back in the water in a few weeks. Painting the hull and striping this weekend. The rudder box work, rudder conditioning and replating should be done next week sometime. As for the bare steel, will probably just put a good etching primer on there, and then several layers of botom paint. Nothing to fancy. That is what I did on the areas of the hull I took down all the way.

    Your welcome to come check it out and render your opinion anytime your this way. I am located right in Colonial Beach. There is another Roamer here that looks about 46-ft or larger. Beautiful boat! Will snap a couple of pics later and post.