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Restoration of Another Aluminum 37

Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by davidopie, May 3, 2010.

  1. davidopie, May 3, 2010
    #1
    davidopie

    davidopie New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2007
    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    I have followed the progress of many of my Roamer sympathizers as pieces of recreational boating history are saved and restored. Congrats to all.

    My Roamer has been 'under construction' for almost 6 years. (Career and other factors delayed progress). The boat is now approaching completion.

    Remaining tasks:
    boot stripe
    bottom paint
    sacrificial anodes
    Props and rudders
    deck hardware re-bedding
    and ... and many details.

    Completed tasks:
    stripped hull and painted
    painted deck, cabin top and hard top
    removed interior to be stripped and finished
    New upholstery
    New wiring
    New aft deck with nautolex (completed this last weekend)
    New glass all around
    Rebuilt original gauges
    Many other things... too numerous to mention.

    I had somebody do the painting and I have done the rest (i.e., bought a sewing machine and did the upholstery, re-laminated the counters, etc.).

    BTW: Homer - I think you visited this boat a few years back when it was on the South River.

    I will post pictures of the job's history soon.

    I have a question: I need to install the thru-hulls for the air cond. water pick-up. I am planning on using backing plates on the bilge side of the thru-hulls. The strainers have screw holes. In order to screw the strainer to the hull, is there a problem with using a backing plate on the exterior of the hull for the strainer?

    My plan was to bed a piece of fiberglass to both sides of the hull (using 3M 5200). Then I could screw the strainer to this fiberglass backing plate. On the bilge side, I could screw the seacock to the plate. IS there another way of doing this?
  2. Marmot, May 4, 2010
    #2
    Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2007
    Messages:
    3,311
    Location:
    9114 S. Central Ave
    Yes, there are several ways to install a through-hull and all of them are far better than what you describe.

    Weld a round doubler either inside or out, whichever allows full access to perform a high quality, full penetration, weld. Then bore the hole for the pipe and weld it externally and internally to seal the hull and doubler. This is critical to prevent water from reaching the space between the doubler and the skin.

    You can use a threaded pipe and attach the seacock that way or you can use a flange and bolt the valve on. In any case, keep the pipe short and use stiffeners if necessary to provide enough strength that you can stand on the thing without breaking it off or deforming the hull.