My 41' 1987 Convertible Viking shows a little moisture on the fore deck where the rail mounts are bolted through the deck. My marina glass person says that they are bolted in such a way that he will need to get at the nuts under the deck to reseat the mounts. Does anyone know what the trick is (if there is one) to unbolt and reseat and bolt the mounts without disassembling the entire cabin interior walls underneath the bolts?
No. Are you sure they're not screwed? Viking is usually pretty good at providing access to things that need access.
Or, machine screws into an alloy plate under the cap. Some brave tech will have to try to remove a screw to determine this. It will probably twist and break off short. Hopefully enough of the screw will help determine if it's a machine screw in a plate as I suspect. Then all stanchions will have to come up, broken screws (re)drilled, and taped for new screws. All re-bedded (Tef-Gell on the new screws) and re-secured. If the stanchions are secure and rails tight now, I'd try a crack sealant ( http://www.captaintolley.com ) . It's not UV stable and this would need a taped off and formed sun proof sealant bead around the joint like Life Caulk.
Thanks, they tell me machine screws with bolts (not part of a plate). I agree with your point, that this is unlike Viking.
Thanks for the tips. I will pass on to the tech. The rails and stanchions are very secure so I like the crack sealant idea.
I believe there is a video on line that shows the multitude of uses of butyl tape and it's proper method of use. I have a friend who was a yacht builder and he swears by it.
I have heard of other yachties who swear by it also...and it doesn't shrink or dry out...if it does start to leak, you only have to snug up the bolts a little and it seals again
Keep in mind, when it gets real old, it starts oozing and makes a mess. 40 years later, our ole Bert is still oozing that stuff where it was used. Been there, fixed that. 3M still has the best products.