MTU oil?

As to brands, I say if it meets the specs use it.

That said, I'm a fan of synthetics.

If you're talking 2 stroke outboards, I just ran good quality 2 stroke oil. It's been a while since I've had a 2 stroke outboard.

But I know people who only use synthetic in their 2 stroke land toys.

I sense some confusion here.

Detroit Diesel = two stroke

MTU = four stroke

outboards = two stroke (but the rinnnnggg-ddinnnggg-dinnggg kind that has oil added to the gasoline)

Dave, I'd call your local MTU rep to be sure, but Chevron (and others, certainly) offers an applications brochure that includes MTU high-speed (>1000rpm) marine diesels.

Good luck!

http://www.chevronmarineproducts.com/docs/StemToStern_Brochure_v0108.pdf

That is why I asked if he meant outboards or not.

Amsoil makes a synthetic that works well in 2 stroke diesels. It's there "Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (ACD)"

Hi,

Those 183's are really an automotive engine that has been marinized.

They are tough old roosters and take a lot to cause problems.

My personal favourite when running 3520 Hp MTU 16V396TB94's was Exxon XD 3 40 Extra, I have also run it in CATS and experienced significantly reduced oil consumption as compared to a multi grade 15W 40.

Both my Grandfathers used to work heavy trucks from the 1920's and 30's (some of them Steam trucks with solid rubber and wooden wheels). Oils in the engines and gearboxes were changed seasonally depending on weather and temp. Lighter oils were used in winter and a heavier oil in summer, with different weight oils in gearboxes. If a heavy load was called upon a heavier grade oil was put into the gearbox for smoother changes.

With the advent of multigrade oils in the 50's and 60's, this negated the seasonal changes of earlier years. The 'W' in multigrades means Winter Viscoscity. That covers most diesel engines in smaller pleasure boats (up to 1000hp) within the 15W/40 range of useage/temps.

In a marine envirorment, where temps and humidity are mostly stable, a straight 40W with inhibitors, as suggested by K1W1, is an excellent choice.

I like the Chevron (formerly texaco) extra heavy duty 40w........

They're good engines overall, but smoky on startup and stinky at trolling speeds. If you ever yank the injectors, anel the copper washers (gaskets) before installing and you may be lucky to not have any fuel leaks but typically you have to reseal several injectors once they've been taken out to stop the fuel leaks. Parts are very expensive. The overflow sensor for the coolant was $383 (my cost 3 yrs ago) and is the size of a spark plug and just detects water on its copper probe.

You really need to use what the manufacturer says to use.
For years MAN went back and forth on single weight versus multi-weight oil in the D28 engines. Some years they said use one, then they would change their mind and say use the other.
In the D2842 engines I had, (which are pretty much identical to the MTU engines Dave has) I used the Texaco Ursa Super Plus. Which I dont think is manufactured anymore. But, it was on the list of approved fluids, which was most important in the bottom line.

Dave,
ALL 8v/92's smoke, no matter what you do to them!!

Chevron bought out Texaco, The Ursa Super Plus which I used exclusively in DD's is now branded Chevron extra heavy duty or super heavy duty (something along those lines)

With the exception of turn them off or don't start them

Oh, you've been to Fort Lauderdale too.

I used to run a pair of very old MTU's with straight through exhausts. I too had to walk around my neighbours and ask them to shut all doors and windows before start up. The smoke was so thick, you could cut it with a knife and fork.

Once I took my girlfriend to lunch up in the hills over looking the marina. Yep, the one thing you could see and hear was that bloody old boat on start-up from miles away.

We use Shell Rotella in our MTU 2000 series

I've always been a fan of Amsoil. We use it in many applications.

Here is some fun (tech-head) reading on the topic, which may or may not apply to your specific case.

Thanks PB, thats really interesting.

So in result form, does this mean a good semi-synthetic beats an old fashioned multi-grade?

Do the inhibitors do anything for prevention of wear or do we just need to change it a bit more often?

As for the '4 Ball test'. Nope, me neither but I once saw a stewardess do a similar test with lube.