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kohler 6.5 generator in 1995 carver mariner 330 won't start- any ideas?

Discussion in 'Carver Yacht' started by crashgtr, Jul 6, 2013.

  1. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    If you have timed spark and compression you can try holding your hand over the carb inlet while cranking it over, this might dislodge what if anything is stuck in the pilot jet.

    Once you have done this try to start it normally once you can determine if the float bowl is full. I wrote this last bit because this basic check seems to have been missed by the team effort so far.

    Carb cleaner cleans the parts not the internal passageways.
  2. snelltyke11

    snelltyke11 New Member

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    Me Too

    My 1993 Mariner with same equipment; I have found that I have to hold the start toggle longer than I would like. But I have noticed that the starter will disengage when genny reaches running RPM. I'm told that this is normal because we don't have a fuel pump primer switch like a Westerbeke.

    Attached Files:

  3. Phillip J

    Phillip J Member

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    Mariner's Marina, Seneca, IL
    I feel your pain Crash. I finally found a mechanic by me that found a solution and fixed my problem. I was burning through Stater solenoids by the dozen. There are so many relays in the control box that if just one of those becomes faulty the whole system suffers. Mine was the relay that de-energizes the starter solenoid. replaced it and it still didn't work. Replaced the motherboard and still didn't work. My mechanic spliced in a momentary push button starter switch and its now working great. Still don't know which relay is bad but not going to worry about it, ran it twelves hour yesterday on a full load, Both air conditioners ran fine all day. **** Kohlers, always seem to give people fits. Good luck.
  4. crashgtr

    crashgtr New Member

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    nj
    gen worries

    Phillip J,
    how did you find a good kohler gen service guy?

    All,
    Here is the latest. The carb is getting gas but seems that we can't get it to turn over. We did replace the oil pressure sensor and that did not help.
    As soon as you take your finger off the switch it cuts out and never really engages.

    Seems like some kind of electrical issue but we checked the panel and there is voltage coming in and there is spark coming off the plugs.


    Does Anyone have a service manual for the 6.5?
  5. garyohv

    garyohv New Member

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    I have a pdf for 6.5cz but how to send?? It is somewhere online.
  6. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Click on crashgtr's name and attach it to a Private Message.
  7. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Can you try giving the switch side if the coil 12v or whatever the normal voltage is and bridge the starter?

    This will by pass the ignition switch, you will have to pull the wire off to stop it if it starts
  8. garyohv

    garyohv New Member

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    Repair Sequence

    1. Confirm ignition is good: Use Starter Spray (or fuel) into throat of carb. If it fires up...ignition, relays, and most safety switches good.
    2. Inspect ADS (antidiesel solinoid on carb), filter, and carb and fuel pump screens.
    3. Confirm fuel at carb: Disconnect fuel line at carb, turn on, and observe fuel flow and pressure (3 ft lift). If good, disable and plug fuel pump.
    4. Hang a fuel bottle 3 ft high and connect to carb (bypasses fuel pump relay). Test.
    5. Inspect float valve (stuck closed). Some hit it to dislodge it. Or apply 10 psi air to fuel inlet. Air, or fuel, pumped into carb fuel inlet might dislodge float valve, pressurize the float bowl, and push gas into the jets flushing them (close carb overflow).
    6. Open the fuel bowl and inspect the float valve. Clean jets.
    7. Last: Rebuild carb.
  9. Maybe Knot

    Maybe Knot Member

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    "As soon as you take your finger off the switch it cuts out and never really engages."

    I know this is an old thread, but I just finished the same issue with my Onan 6.5 You have a bad bridge rectifier. A $20.00 fix
  10. trmnewt

    trmnewt Member

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    Rochester
    I had one on a Carver 355, and it wasn't mechanical. My mechanic had to "flash the coil". Apparently the rotor loses its magnetic field and if it doesn't generate current, the engine surges and/or turns over, starts and shuts right down.