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Just purchased Viking 33" 1973 Sportfish Convertible Pros and cons

Discussion in 'Viking Yacht' started by Logic444, Feb 12, 2015.

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  1. Logic444

    Logic444 New Member

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    Anyone got any info on the Viking 33 they can share? This is a boat that has had a lot of work and money put into it by the previous owner. I purchased it recently. I know it has 2 new aluminum tanks and aluminum hard top canvas and the interior was gutted and reconstruction was started. The motors might be seized so today I removed the spark plugs and sprayed each plug hole, i will repeat this step one more time in 3 days before trying to turn the motor. The boat has new paint top and sides. I have never owned one of this size so any input would be helpful.

    There was water that came out one spark plug hole on one motor all the other plugs were dry. The other motor was dry completely. I think one has a blown head gasket (hence the water in one plug). The transmission looks good on both sides. I think there might be a hydrolock on one cylinder with the water in it ( I am guessing) which might be the cause for a lockup. There is a water line that reached the bottom end of the motors but no water was present other than that one plug. The oil in the dip stick was grey on one with water and the other was pretty much blueish.

    I think i got a good buy. She's a pretty boat and I hope to get her running soon. Any idea as to the costs that went into the parts and paint that were put into it?



    Capture2.PNG 1891429_778445488892390_3015791624193790659_o.jpg
  2. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    No, the water is probably leaking into the cylinder from the salt water in the exhaust manifolds. If they're over 5 years old, change the exhaust manifolds and risers.
  3. Logic444

    Logic444 New Member

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    Ok! That makes sense. You seem very sure of yourself. Are you a mechanic Capt J? Can you provide a little bit of details as to what it will take to get these puppies running assuming the motors are good?

    Thanks in advance.
  4. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    To a degree. I've rebuilt many gas motors many years ago. I don't get into rebuilding gas motors or even repairing them much anymore. I sub-contract it out. The #1 killer of gasoline inboards is bad exhaust manifolds/risers. Pull the exhaust manifold and riser off of the side that has water in it, chances are you'll see that or those exhaust ports in the cylinder head are all corroded from saltwater. Manifolds and risers should be changed every 5 years, yet are the most neglected item on the motor. I know of a good mechanic out of Fort Lauderdale.
  5. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    the weak point of those motors is usually the risers.

    a lot of owners neglect them because they are expensive and time consuming to replace every few years. Also they can look great from the outside and be toast on the inside.
  6. Logic444

    Logic444 New Member

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    A head gasket is more likely, it would take a lot for the manifolds to take on water and seep through the heads.
  7. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    No, the exhaust manifolds/risers are the most likely culprit. They leak into the exhaust port and then leak right into the cylinder from any of the exhaust valves, even ones that are closed given enough time.
  8. RT46

    RT46 Senior Member

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    I agree with Capt J, most likely the risers.

    is the engine raw water cooled or is there a heat exchanger?
    If there is a heat exchanger then you would not have raw water in the cylinder.


    You could try filling the cylinder with mystery oil and let it sit for a few days and then try to bar the engine over.

    But, most likely it is stuck and the heads will have to come off and the bearings may be washed out depending on how much water is in the oil.

    You are most likely looking at a rebuild or long block replacement.
  9. Logic444

    Logic444 New Member

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    Yes it is raw water. I sprayed the spark plug holes with WD40 then again 4 days later. I'll attempt to turn the motors in another 3 days. Once i turn the motors i'll see whats going on too.
  10. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    On Gas motors. Even if they're fresh water cooled. Mercruiser manifolds and risers are still raw water cooled. Cruisaders have freshwater cooled manifolds, but still have raw water cooled risers. Saltwater can get into the cylinders either way if you have bad risers, or manifolds on Mercruisers and a lot of the smaller brands (PCM etc.)
  11. Logic444

    Logic444 New Member

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    thanks for that Capt J. Looks like i got some work to do when i go to move her Thursday. I am itching to know if the motors will turn over and to also see whats going on with the one cylinder this way I can begin budgeting for a repair or rebuild.

    Any advice from the forum on how to tow the Viking myself from the marina using my 22ft open fisherman? I have never attempted to try this before so any input is appreciated. The tow will take place by boat and in the bay following the markers and route i have precreated on the GPS. I also checked the depth based on low tide conditions. Thanks in advance.
  12. Boatman Bob

    Boatman Bob New Member

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    I owned a 1973 33 many years ago. Great sea boat, excellent in a following sea. I had Crusader 454's full fresh water cooled. 13 knot cruise at about 3000 RPM, but would get up and go at 3500, but eat gas like I owned the station.
    Well built, good hull and gel coat. Kept her in the water year round, and it eventually grew blisters. I sold it when I bought a 40 Silverton. Viking was a much better built boat.
  13. Blane Tatum

    Blane Tatum New Member

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    How Nae Nae happened upon this thread we will never know... She was trying to find pictures of '73 - 33' Viking and the forum popped up...

    We are now the owners of the '73 - 33' Viking...

    It has been through two more owners with repairs started but far from completed...
    It has survived a major storm and a category 5 Hurricane with minor damage...
    We purchased it knowing full well it will have to be gutted and rebuilt with 'New engines' and interior, including wiring and plumbing & all cables etc...
    This by far is the most extensive rebuild I have taken on, and i know it will take a year or more before completion...
    With the advancement of materials that will never rot or decay (at least in my lifetime), I believe it will turn out well.
    It came with Mercruiser 350's , found a dealer with marine 383 Strokers ...
    Strokers are $3500 each, but i can get 350's for $1700 each and I looked at Competition cams and they offer a high torque cam for Marine use at around $200.00
    (still contemplating)...
    Diesels would be nice, but with the overall costs we are looking at, we are going back (close to) as originally designed...
    The Transmissions will be rebuilt (Borg-Warner velvet drives) ...
    The boat was inspected and was found to be in sound condition (hull wise) (Stringers were my biggest worry)...
    Props and shafts were replaced previously (never turned an ounce of water since replacement), along with new Bow railing, Bimini top and frame...
    It sits in a slip in a fresh water river (which is a plus)...
    We are in for the long haul... beginning the interior removal this weekend (not much left...) and then a fresh coat of epoxy paint over the entire interior hull...
    Plans are to get it where we can overnight on her and do things on the weekends...
    Anyone know where to locate any manuals (service or owners) on this vessel ?
    Please advise...
    Also...
    Prayers needed... :)
  14. rob fairchild

    rob fairchild New Member

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    Any updates on the *new to you* Viking?
  15. Blane Tatum

    Blane Tatum New Member

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    Rob,

    I decided to replace the flooring and found the stringers were not in 'Good' shape as I was told... should have seen that coming. So I have currently removed the stringers from the front to the bulkhead and am preparing to replace that section first, just about ready to go back. Weather here has been rough lately and hoping for a break soon...
    Also have the port engine removed (looks like a car engine had been used) and will remove the starboard engine soon.

    I have found multiple leaks that have to be repaired before continuing with any other repairs, due to thieves taking equipment and leaving holes to damage from two storm and last years hurricane, although the damage doesn't look bad at all, during heavy rainfall the water is coming in steadily. (due to unforeseen circumstances, i wasn't able to get down to there to work on it for almost a 8 weeks... I have an automatic bilge pump set in the lowest point to keep the boat drained...guess what quit... found almost 2 feet of water in her hull... thank goodness someone called and to say that I should go and ck on it because rains had almost sunk two other boats and the Viking didn't look like it was sitting right... bilge was only 3 mths old...)

    I am in the automotive business and I have found the material is just not available for the vessel as it is for older vehicles... I even contacted Viking... twice.... not even a "kiss my ass" reply... Disappointed... wasn't expecting much, but any reply would have been appreciated.

    I haven't given up, I have found a lot of pic's and video on the internet...but it looks like the interior design will be of my own (lord help me).

    I am a fan of older boats and vehicles (also own a '66 Barracuda) and really like the lines and shape of the Viking, it appears to have been a well built vessel, but this one was poorly repaired by previous owners.
  16. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    The 33 had a short lived run and was replaced by the 35 .

    The 33 was the first boat Viking built that transitioned their production line from wood to FRP, so I am sure there was some growing pains experienced on the production/assembly of that "new" stuff. It was a bit difficult to get the proper balance at 33', was competing with the 33 Egg Harbor and various Bertram/Hatteras/Luhrs/Silverton's, just to mention a few. The Viking and the Egg had a "proper" salon arrangement, fairly challenging in that size of boat, hence the move to 35'. Viking does not seem to mention it on their website under the heritage section: https://www.****************/main/Heritage.asp
    But I am sure it shares a lot of DNA with the first gen 35.

    The big challenge is to get the balance right - engine placement and fuel tanks. I would even consider adding 2 feet to the cockpit, or maybe an integrated swimplatform to help balance the boat.

    First major decision - vee-drives or close coupled inboards, or for the modern era, outboards on brackets!
  17. rob fairchild

    rob fairchild New Member

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    Blane,
    Glad to see you are sticking to it.
    I'm currently in negotiations for a '74 - 33'.
    It seems to have been well maintained and has alot of recent updates/repairs.
    I'm currently a Marinette owner. '85 - 32' Sedan. As much as I love the all aluminum boat. It leaves little to desire when seas get over 2-3'. Which is common here on the Western basin of Lake Erie...
    We will see what happens with this 33 I'm looking at.
    Looking forward to following along with yours!
  18. Al Johnson

    Al Johnson New Member

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    PacBlue,

    I have a '73 Viking 33 convertible that I have never had in the water yet and was wondering how exactly you believe the weight should be realigned? I'm thinking about moving my engines forward and getting rid of the Vee drive and then relocating the fuel tanks to the area previously occupied by the engines. I have a swim platform, teak, but I don't think it adds any great amount of weight. The engines are currently out and under the wrench, also have a 4 cylinder gen unit between them that may need to shift back a foot or so to clear the engines.

    Thanks,
    Al
  19. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    This is typically a Naval Architect exercise and would require a Hull Lines Plan and some spreadsheet work to get the right numbers. Possibly talk to some of the local yards and see if there is someone who they can recommend, or try and talk to the Viking factory again. You also need to have someone calculate the Planing Area (the projected area bounding by the chines) and then identify the Centroid of that area for starters.
    A rough approximation is that the Center of Gravity for a boat like yours is approximately 40% of the waterline as measured forward from the transom. That is the "pivot" point when the center of the weight matches the center of buoyancy for your particular hull geometery. It does sound a bit technical, you have risk if you go at it solo, so get a local NA who can direct you to the right balance point.

    There is a Naval Architect paper you can google that gives a technical overview on the topic just for (casual?) reading:

    Dynamic Stability of Planing Boats by Donald L. Blount 1 and Louis T. Codega