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engine overheating at 20 rpm+

Discussion in 'Carver Yacht' started by K Knestrick, Jun 25, 2017.

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  1. K Knestrick

    K Knestrick New Member

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    Jun 24, 2017
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    Location:
    Tarpon Springs FL
    New owners of Carver Mariner 3297, starboard engine overheats above 20 rpm, slow down, temperature drops. I've cleaned the sea strainers, is there any other thing I can try before calling mechanic?
  2. 30West

    30West Member

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    What engines? What year? Raw water cooled or coolant cooled with heat exchangers?

    Is plenty of water coming out of the exhaust? Your risers should be warm to hot, but not too hot to put your hand on.

    If low water flow in exhaust, check the intakes under the boat. If those are clear I'd check/replace the impellers, and backflush the raw water side of the cooling system looking for debris. You could have rust in your exhaust manifold blocking cooling water.

    More thoughts when I know what engines and how they are cooled... How mechanical are you?
  3. chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    Last time I had a gasser and had that problem it was the exhaust manifolds rusting up and clogging.
    Mine were Chryslers, 360's I think, and the risers were done.
    Same symptoms, I could run at cruise with no problems and overheat as soon as I backed down to idle.
  4. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    "Above 20rpm"?? Typo. Do you mean 1200 or 2000??

    What kind of engine, year, and if gas are they raw water cooled or fresh water cooled.

    Without any useful derilqs start with the basics. Strainer and impeller.
  5. K Knestrick

    K Knestrick New Member

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    They are original 1986 engines. 260 merccruisers,
    Coolant cooled with heat exchangers. I can't see the water coming out exhaust, it's under swim platform. I haven't checked manifolds, but I will.
    I'm not much of a mechanic, but how hard can it be to backflush raw water side of cooling system?
    Thanks for your help.
  6. K Knestrick

    K Knestrick New Member

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    They are 1986 original 260 Crusaders, gas, fresh water cooled with exchangers. Sorry I didn't give full info at first.
    Oh, and I meant 2000. It started to overheat when I got to about 6.5 mph. Thanks for helping
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2017
  7. 30West

    30West Member

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    I'm going to guess by your location these have been running in salt water. That engine runs raw (salt) water through the exhaust manifold, it is normal to replace the exhaust manifolds and risers every few years when run in salt water. It will take moderate mechanical skill and tools, probably should look for a mechanic.

    You really need to be able to check for water flow from your exhaust, every time you start engines. This is not an option, unless you have money to burn on new engines every so often. I have sensors and alarms for water flow, but still check the exhaust. Check the oil and other fluids, check bilge, start engines, check gauges, check water flow, then go out.
  8. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Inboards or stern drive?

    If inboards you should be able to look at the water flow out of the exhaust. Sterndrives discharge underwater (it s been 20 years since i he had a stern drive boat... )

    I would first replace the impellers and also make sure there are no impeller pieces stuck at the heat exchanger inlet. Unfortunately some mechanics or owners just replace the impeller and don't dish out the pieces...

    Next would be the risers and manifolds. 6 to 8 years is plenty in salt water. There not expensive and in theory easy to replace but it it s been a while the bolts will hard to remove and could be corroded. Unless you re really mechanically inclined have a good mechanic do it. Also I m guessing the access on a twin 30 footers is gong to be right. Not an easy job if that's the case
  9. ranger58sb

    ranger58sb Senior member

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    Typical troubleshooting on the raw water side would be:
    - cleaning the sea strainer (which you've done),
    - changing the impeller (fishing out any broken vanes or other pieces while you're at it),
    - backflushing the intake thru-hull (in case something is clogging that)...
    - and then if necessary cleaning the heat exchanger (often that means removal and either mechanical and/or chemical cleaning)

    There's a way to flush the raw water side of the heat exchanger in situ, using products like Rydlyme or Barnacle Buster... and that could address other segments of the raw water cooling system, if you have any (oil coolers, fuel coolers, aftercoolers, whatever)... in case there's a clog somewhere else along the line.

    Probably useful to check the freshwater side: Thermostat working? Coolant levels OK?

    And then with gas engines, as folks have said, it's typical to replace the risers and manifolds periodically. Gas owners in our club often recommend every 5 years in salt water...

    -Chris
  10. timvail

    timvail Senior Member

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    speaking re impeller changes on generators and mains. what is the consenses re changing impellers when running is fresh water only. we operate the boat about 4to 5 months a year with around 75 to 100 hrs. the yard wants to see them changed every couple of years. i was doing that but noted not much diffwrence between the new impellers and the ones we replaced.
  11. chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    That is cheap insurance if you've only got to do it every couple years.
  12. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Problem is that up north impellers take a set when they sit for months. In round year use I ve gotten as much as 4 to 5 years and over 1000 hrs on impellers