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Can someone tell me what this is, and how to fix or replace it?

Discussion in 'Bertram Yacht' started by BMY46-6, Aug 30, 2015.

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  1. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    Hi guys, I have a question about my 1976 Betram 46-6. In front of my Detroit 8v71 engines there is a red box with a lot of cables attached. I am preparing to start engines that has been submerged, and this box started to smoke. The box made a click sound when we set engine stop/on to on or stop, but after the smoke-incident it does not click anymore. It seems we have blown something on the printcard where I put an arrow (see attached image). Is it possible to fix this box, or do I look for a replacement? If it needs replacing, can anyone suggest a good replacement part, and where to find it?

    2015-08-30 00.16.46.jpg

    2015-08-30 00.17.10.jpg
  2. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

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    Do you mean the engines and this equipment has been submerged and you are attempting to restart the engines after no remedial work ?
  3. Ward

    Ward Senior Member

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  4. RER

    RER Senior Member

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    Voltage regulator. BTW those are electrical wires, not cables.
  5. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    Hi guys, and thanks for answering. I wrote that I am preparing to start, not trying to start. I have not done very much with the engines, but I was able to make one of them turn and both the turbos of that engine are spinning free. All injectors are moving when pressed also.

    I was originally planning to replace both engines, but I have only managed to find one replacement engine so far. So I wanted to try a trick to loosen the other. I had my frend standing on a 1m longwrench on the crank, and I gave the wrench a nice and hard hit with a hammer. The trick worked and my port engine is now turning.

    We are now planning to remove all injectors and poor some diesel in all cylinders, and then turn it much more before we try cranking it. And also change the oil of course. So finding out of this box is just one of many things we are planning to do before we start it.:)

    A special thanks to RER! Now I know what it is, and can start searching for a replacement.
  6. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Make sure you turn them in the rotation they are supposed to turn. I would remove the injectors prior to rotating the motor so that you relieve any compression in case there is water in the cylinder. You might be best rebuilding your existing motors in place rather than buying someone elses headache.
  7. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    I had to loosen it the"wrong" way, as its the port engine. But we only turned it about half way around that way. After that I have only turned it the "right" way.

    The replacement engine I have found is supposed to come from a military surplus outlet, so the seller claims it has never been used(!). It does not look very new though, but it was very cheap. :D

    I specially dont like the way the engine is mounted in the frame, as it seems to be a little rough on the balancer wheel. (Or what it is called) Here are som pics:
    2015-08-24 18.38.35.jpg

    2015-08-24 18.39.21.jpg

    2015-08-24 18.39.01.jpg

    2015-08-24 18.40.11.jpg
  8. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    And is this surplus military engine the same HP and compression as yours? Different DD's have different pistons and compression depending on whether they were TI's, Naturals etc. etc.
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Take your original serial numbers, and you newer engine serial number to a Detroit shop. They can tell you what parts are usable.
    From the style of the block air path covers, probably not much.
  10. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    I would advise having a large CO2 Fire extinguisher on hand when you fire up these engines, if the fuel control is stuck in anyway they will rev till the end. The CO2 sprayed into the intakes will stop them if the flaps won't.

    If the one really has had water in it the liner or liners that had water in will be toast at the very minimum.
  11. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    I thought that I only had to look for a turbo engine, and it is a turbo. The differences I see first hand is the balancer wheel, the strange exhaustmanifolds (or what they are) and the oil cooler. I dont remember the serial or model number now, but the model number ends on 99 on the new one and 00 or 09 on the old. (Hard to read). Other than that model numbers are the same. Thanks for the advice on taking the serial number to a diesel shop, I will do that and hear what they say. I was hoping to put the complete long block right in, with all my own marine parts.

    It is not very important to me that these engines perform at their 100%. I was thinking the new engine would be enough for me to safely drive the boat at low speed, and the other one I only need to work well enough to be able to use 2 engines in harbours. The boat will be used as a live aboard, and will not be moved around very much.

    I will not be using the original diesel tank for the startup, but a small tank I can close or disconnect if it schould rev out of control. I also have a large CO2 fire extinguisher in the engine room. The trigger for the fire extinguisher is up on the bridge. Do I need to close all engine hatches for it to work, or will it work also with the floor all open?

    And thanks again for all advices! I am new in the yacht game, and eager to learn. :)
  12. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    Does anyone know of a video of a Detroit over revving? I would really like to see and hear how it acts out.
  13. BMY46-6

    BMY46-6 New Member

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    Never mind, I found some when searching for "runaway detroit". :)
  14. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    I would suggest a portable extinguisher or remove the blower screen and have a handful of rags to stuff into the blower if it does run away. Turning off the fuel will not do much if she is really on a roll.

    This is what I was taught when doing my time and by being careful and not working on them for a long time have avoided any major mishaps with them although did once get a hot 8V71 going backwards for a short time.
  15. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Blowers may eat rags. Have a plate of plywood handy that will block air from entering the blower.
    Twinscrewzz likes this.
  16. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    And the air filters off so you can put it over the turbo inlets easily.
  17. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    A DD thats really going will run on its own oil via the blower seals, a big gob of rags or anything that will jam the blower breaks the blower drive shaft which is machined thinner in the middle for this to happen, not many run after that happens
  18. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Lots of rags at once. No fingers.

    Reminds me of a story.
    Owner could get his 8v71 to cough, chug, almost start but never really start, keep going and run. After a new starter I was asked to take a look.
    Yep, broke blower drive shaft I found by accident making sure the flapper was all open.
    I have heard of a few stories they will fail on their own. Usually on shut down and nobody knows till next use.
  19. Norseman

    Norseman Senior Member

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    Aye BMY, a fellow Norwegian?
    Hvordan står den?
    How did this happen?
    You salvaged a wreck or your own boat sank without you having insurance?
    Any boat submerged in salt water will be endless headaches from corrosion, mold, smell, rot and what not.
    Hopefully you got it for free?
  20. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Free boat??
    No such thing. You never end the payment$.