Antifreeze 2 Alarm Condaria chiller

You may also explore if you need an AMOT valve. I assume the boat is in Vancouver based on your location? Many of these systems are designed to work in warmer raw water temps. The colder water you are in causes high pressure in the system and can give weird alarms. I had to add an AMOT valve to the raw water side of my ice maker and my ac/heat chillers.
I’m not super familiar with your system but I’m guessing for heat it is a reverse cycle. You may also find these don’t work great in cold water. This is why most folks go to a diesel style boiler in the PAC NW and north of there. For many chiller units you can add supplemental electric heaters in the cooling loop but I’ve heard they don’t work great and use a lot of power. This is why I decided to go ahead and put in a full diesel fired hydronic zoned system that is completely separate system from my chillers. It works gan

What Condaria chiller are you talking about?
If it's similar to this one, which is how their more popular models look like, I'm not sure of which alarm you are referring to.
In fact, there's no such thing as an "Antifreeze 2" alarm.
Beware: both CLP and CHP are reported as "Antifreeze alarm" in the manual, but that's a translation mistake.
The only alarm which is antifreeze-related (sort of) is CLP, that is supposed to go off if sear water temperature is under 10° C (=50° F).
If that's the condition you are boating in, you can forget warming up the boat with the reverse cycle of the chiller, and consider what Dockmaster already said ref. separate heating instead.
But both the CLP and the CHP alarms can also be due to inadequate raw water flow - due to a restricted intake/pipe, pump not working as it should, whatever.
OTOH, if you are referring to the "AL1" or "AL2" led alarms on the control panel, right under the LCD display, that's yet another kettle of fish...

You must be talking of another system.
On Condaria chiller-driven systems, 3 bar would be off the scale, and borderline to dangerous.
The manual specifies 1 to 1.5 bar for the cooling circuit - BTW, it isn't actually just fresh water: it's supposed to be mixed with a specific antifreeze & corrosion prevention liquid.

BTW, based on the recommendation of one of their factory engineers, I like to run mine also below 1 bar, the rule of thumb being that the lower the pressure, the better for preventing leakages.
Some pressure is only necessary to avoid the circulation pump cavitating, which can happen with very low pressures.
Here there isn't a specific number/limit, because it depends on each installation (pipe lengths, head, fancoil type and number), but my system works just fine with as low as 0.5 bar.

All that has nothing to see with the OP problem, anyway.
And I suppose he must have already troubleshoooted it long ago, since his post is of 2+ years ago...

56' boat, centralized twin compressors chiller, 7 fancoils.