Discussion in 'Ocean Yacht' started by Boomer, Dec 28, 2018.
Where would the best place be to wire them to in the engine room?
Most old analog meters run off the starter switch on the helm, whether the motor is running or not. Hence most engine hours never match correctly.
New digital hours are recorded off the ECU.
If you have switched alternator sense, a second wire to your alternator (not tach signal), you could tap there. I'd say 9 out of 10 installs are self exciters and only one (battery) lead would be found.
Depending on the mfg and harness, You may find a switched B+ on a terminal strip near or close to the engine, in line of the engine harness, not connected to anything.
Since Detroits (Non DDEC) do not need juice to run, that is my first two guesses.
Interesting you do not have hour meters already installed.
Later hour meters I install are under the dash, taped to the key switch B+ that powers the volt meter or dash gauges (Usually purple wire). No need to bore a dash hole and you don't have to crawl into the ER to check hours.
I have hour meters built into the floscans but I think they are running slow and would like to verify readings with analogs...I have duplicate gauges for oil and temp in the bilge and figured i would mount next to them
I believe the new uprated Alts have lost that 2nd pole and all run off the same one.
Your bilge/ER gauges are usually mechanical. Meaning they do not need B+ to work. But, look them over. Maybe at least the back lighting is Switched B+.
If there is ever an issue with FlowScan displays, it's not the clock. Next time on board for more than an hour, turn your keys on and compare to a clock.
Keys on will not hurt anything unless it enables a low oil alarm.
Will check that idea in the morning...thank you
As I have a red coming off alternator to starter to battery, i figured to tap in there as alternator is always charging and will run the gauge? If alt not working, motor would not be running? Thoughts?
Wrong. That lead will always be hot from the battery.
Would you have the factory ships schematics? Could you get a copy?
Negative...no schematics...will look around for some...as the boat was refit in 2010, unsure what would be original and what was updated
I like this idea the best. Tap into the oil pressure gauge?
If the engine room mechanical gauges are mechanical, there is no B+ power to them. They work on an umbilical tube from the engines. The back lighting for them may be key switched on.
Now if the engine room gauges are electrical and work from the key switch, life is good. Tap on the B+ side of the gauge.
Send us a picture of the gauges back side if your not sure.
In re-reading your comment, yes, on the bridge, tap on any purple wire to the gauges. They are key switched.
Hang on, hang on;
Been a long day and a late cocktail to remember this.
Is your alternator belt driven or bolted on the back of the engine (direct cam drive)?
Leece-Neville (Prestolite) alternators required a key switch exciter line. Usually a purple or yellow with a purple strip (Not red stripe). This would be a good switched wire to tap on in the engine room for a hour meter.
Send a pic of the back of the alternator.
Belt driven...going with your first idea and mounting them under the dash on the bridge. Will be the weekend project..will look for purple wires and splice in
Most people wire them to an oil pressure switch, then they don't run when the motors aren't.
Decided to build a bracket and mount them under them helmet as capt. Ralph mentioned...installing this weekend on the new motor so I can keep accurate records on her