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1970 53' Hatteras Yacht; full refit.

Discussion in 'Hatteras Yacht' started by Pascal, Nov 11, 2015.

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  1. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    2000, 3700.. both are going to leave some water in the bilge.
    IMO, put in the 3700s, raise the float about 1/2" to remove any air lock issues,
    Then, ad some low water pickup diaphragm pumps to remove the last E/R bilge water.

    Yes, some extra cost.;
    The performance (hopefully never needed) of the 3700s, and very low bilge water with the diaphragm pumps.
  2. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Wonderful pictures. Luv your helpers.
    Thx
  3. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    We have 6 3700 on the 70 johnson I run and they ve never air locked. After each pump instal I test them using a hose to make sure they actually work :) so far so good ... I always mount the switch a little higher, seems to do the trick The 3700 will suck a lot of water fast so they will suck air more easily than the 2000. Mounting the switch a bit higher leaves more water in the bilge but ensure the switch shuts the pump before it can suck air
  4. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    A+
  5. chesapeake46

    chesapeake46 Senior Member

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    Looks like you put a lot of thought into the job. Really nice.
  6. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I am feared I missed something. Are the new engines already in?
  7. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    No they re not...they are ordered and will go in in the next few months.

    Too much other stuff to do first including safety / survey critical stuff that will be needed for insurance... Like the electrical system, bilge pumps, sea cocks and thruhulls, and more... Not putting in new engines unless I know insurer won't bail out in case of a disaster :(
  8. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Good CYA.
    I brought that up wondering how the engines R&R was to happen now that the new galley has been built up.
    I'm assuming, the blocks will go out/it the after door way and thru the saloon deck.
  9. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Yes the will. I built the kitchen cabinetry so they can be removed. Stbd side counter tops is easier has it only has the cooktop with just one cable to disconnect. If we also have to move the port side counter out of the way, it s a little harder as I d have to disconnect the sink and move a air handler out of the way, but doable.
  10. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    New pump system. Total of 6 rule 3700 mounted on a starboard bracket with a high water float switch. Connected to pump panel with new 5 wire harnesses.

    Panel can be seen in the picture. Each pump has a circuit breaker, green led
    To show power on, override on switch, pump running and high water red LEDS. Same set up at the bottom for the two 2000 sumo pumps

    There is also a breaker for the high water alarm circuits, again with a green led to show system ready status

    This panel is fed directly from one of the battery bank.

    Helm isn't finished so the panel Instal is temporary (screws heads showing)

    Having the pump and switches mounted on starboard allows me to attach the whole thing high in the bilge (bulkhead or stringer) and let's me take out the whole unit for maintenance

    Attached Files:

  11. wayneCCC

    wayneCCC New Member

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    Thank you for the picture and description. This looks like a very confidence inspiring set-up.
  12. jhall767

    jhall767 Senior Member

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    If you are installing Auto-off-on switches on those pumps you can wire a Red LED in for run status and a Green LED for power. I like to install them so that I can see the "green board" as I leave the boat.
  13. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    After limited progress, mostly ripping old wiring and , due to a busy schedule, I finally took a big step with a complete redo of the air con system.

    These boats were set up with 4 remote condensers in the ER and 5 air Handlers. Adequate by early 70s standards... a few years back i added an extra condenser and air handler for the galley but it was time to upgrade. The condensers were about 15 years old, and the air handlers or various vintages. 3 compressors were done.

    I didn't want to stick with individual compressors and decided to go with chillers. More reliable, easier to maintain and better redundancy

    I went with Flagship Marine, based in Stuart fl. All made in the USA, well most of it..., commercial grade and very simple. No proprietary electronic boards and controllers and complex stuff. All off the shelf components. Well built too with sloped drain pans on the AH, heavy duty pans and frames, etc.

    I just finished installing two 36k btu chillers and 4 air handlers (nr 5, for the bow stateroom will be installed after it is gutted and redone later this year

    Running the chilled water thrunthe boat can be challenging but with the engine rooms amidship, I had very short hose runs

    Flipped the breakers on yesterday... so far so good. Worth the effort and the money. IMG_4830.JPG IMG_4831.JPG
  14. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Air handlers IMG_4867.JPG IMG_4868.JPG
  15. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    IMG_4922.JPG IMG_4923.JPG Chillers in port ER

    Circulation pump (march) and 20 gallons holding tank are in the genny room just forward of ER

    IMG_4922.JPG
  16. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    First DD coming out!

  17. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    The re-birth of your MY is in full swing. Imagine the stories that DD could tell!

    Great job, good luck on your repower with Cummins :)
  18. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    And the second one. A little harder as the main i beam could reach over due to a galley counter. They had to swing it in the center before pulling it out.

  19. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

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    Nice, what type of Engine Controls are you going with?
  20. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    I keeping the cable controls. They work and we're replaced at some point.

    At least for now. I may convert to Morse electronics in the future. Not sure