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Strut bushing

Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by biodon, Nov 12, 2009.

  1. biodon

    biodon New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Messages:
    34
    Location:
    Lake Ozark, MO
    Where can you get new bushing for the prop shaft support strut and how do you get the old bushings out?

    It looks like the bushing is metal with a rubber surface where it contacts the prop shaft. The rubber appears to have longitudinal grooves to facilitate water lubrication.

    I'm going to weld in new pipes/logs where the shafts go through the hull. The originals are thin in spots. How much clearance should there be? Mine are so rotten, I can't determine the original inside diameter.
  2. Savasa

    Savasa Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2008
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    167
    Location:
    Iqaluit, Nunavit, Canada
  3. 9lives

    9lives Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2004
    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Lake Superior
    The cutlass bearing is not welded in place but rather pressed and then a set screw holds it. When I reshafted our Aluminum 41 Regal from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 I cut the tubes off the struts and welded on new tubes. The new tubes were purchased from Mc Master Carr of all places. I used the old 1-1/2" shafts with a machined bronze bushing that matched the Id of the tube and the od of the old shafts, which was also the od of the new cutlass bearing. This held the tube as close as possible to the correct alignment during the welding phase. The intent was to not have to line bore the bearing after welding. After we were all done welding and ready for the new shafts to be installed we pushed them up into the correct position and found that even when supported by the end coupling on the engine end, and a centering bushing on the shaft log the strut bearing had been drawn out of positon by the heat of welding. Luckily it was still within the limits of the engine mounts, but it surprised me how the port side moved and the starboard had turned out perfectly! The good thing to know is that today I no longer worry about a shaft shearing because of the Cats' torque when in swells! There are more than enough things to be worrying about on a lengthy cruise without the ones we create by pushing equipment like shafts to their limits! As to shaft log clearance I believe I had 1/4" minuimum. This is also somewhat dictated by the packing glands available for the new shaft diameter. Best of luck with your project. Ps I also bought the johnson cutlass bearings from Deepwater.
    Mark

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  4. q240z

    q240z New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2007
    Messages:
    285
    Location:
    zsedr
    On my aluminum Roamer, I used a hammer and chisel to remove the old cutlass bearings, then used a 1.5" SS flue brush on a drill and Alumaprep to clean out the bore. After coating the bore with Devoe 235 epoxy primer, I pressed the new bearings in using the hydraulic cylinder from my engine crane and blocks of wood. The epoxy will hopefully keep a watertight seal to avoid crevice corrosion between the strut tubes and bearings. There was so much aluminum oxide between the two when I found the boat that you couldn't turn the shafts--the cutlass bearings were squeezing down on the shafts.
  5. biodon

    biodon New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Messages:
    34
    Location:
    Lake Ozark, MO
    I wondered if bushings could seize that way. I wanted to put bronze bushings in the rudder logs, but refrained for fear rust between the bushing and the hull could squeeze the bushings.
  6. Oneiros

    Oneiros Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2006
    Messages:
    299
    Location:
    lulea Sweden the land of the midnightsun
    Hi
    I`m going to turn new bushing made of plastics.have alredy mount so i can grease them.the stud should bee much higher so the water cant get in.