After suffering numerous random electrical issues since I bought the post a year and a half ago, I’ve been slowly working my way through every wire on the flybridge and replacing with heat shrink terminals. After 25 years every single wire has at least some corrosion on it. Post did so many things right on these boats but non heat shrink terminals in the bridge console seems unforgivable. Was this common in the 2000 era with other sportfish manufacturers? Is it common still?
Most of that birds nest is Not Post. I see; An updated VP wire harness. Quasi electrical expansions. Lots of repairs and mods. You are correct about shrink connects but I don't see its use on new boats today. In reality, Your birds nest looks pretty good compared to some new & old spaghetti messes I have witnessed. Relax, it's not a rocket, it's a great ole boat.
But as long as your in there; Fix that loose terminal wire. Figure why a red wire was wrapped with yellow tape, then bundled with another yellow wire. This would drive me nuts. I'm thinking you need some ole phart to help clean up some of that.
I had my bridge wiring cleaned up/re done and same thing with my 95 Viking. No heat shrink. Maybe heat shrinks are not that much better. Ralph?
Maybe heat shrinks are not that much better. In my opinion; it depends. I don't want to quote ABYC or CFRs. I don't think they discuss shrink devices much anyway. May I inject just some common sense. Often you can match or exceed most printed specs just by thinking about your project a little before tearing in. If it is a wet environment, use shrink connects AND still inspect often. Great example here is bilge pumps & black water pumps. Shrink connects slows down the damaging effects of the wet location, they do not prevent any wet damage. To many times I have witnessed green and failed shrink connects in the bilges. Fly bridges could be the next wet location to note, before the hot & steaming engine room. Spray, mist, rain, condensation & more is always in and around a fly bridge helm. In the OPs picture, Shrink is not going to help those terminal strips. BoeShield or like could help reduce the corrosion on these. Again, inspect often. When you have room, secure the wire bundles away from these terminal strips for easier inspections and services. Don't forget to use contact cleaner when servicing any connection and when finished; a new application of BoeShield or like over all. Now my pet peeve; Strain relief. There are mostly 4 types of terminal crimps. The cheap crimp that just smashes the wire conductor but does not capture the wires isolation. The better crimp that smashes the wire conductor maybe a lil better and also (when installed correctly) captures the wires insulation with a correctly sized crimp. The shrink crimp that smashes the wire conductor maybe a lil better and also (when installed correctly) captures the wires insulation with stiff glue. The naked crimp No plastic coating or jacket at all, just the lil metal tab/crimp that smashes the wire conductor. These also allow soldering the conductor to the crimp. I use these on installs using multiable conductors (NEMA183 wires or like), and ad shrink tube to firm it up. I have witnessed wire fatigue and failure it the cheap crimps. I have witnessed wire fatigue and failure it the better crimps when not installed correctly. I don't recall ever witnessing any wire fatigue and failure when shrink crimps or shrink tubing is used. Still, it is on a boat; inspect often. Other than proper sizing, strain relief is a big deal for me when selecting a terminal end crimp. Weather/wet resistance is a close third. I use shrink crimps and shrink tubing in any environment that vibrates or could be wet also. In the OPs picture, The wires from the terminal strips, bundled up into a harness alongside does offer some strain relief but not rock solid. Again, inspect often and sleep well.
IMHO as a 38 year veteran of the commercial marine industry, I don’t wire anything without using marine grade heat shrink terminals. The marine grade are shrink and have heat activated adhesive. I use these on my boats, vintage cars, RV - everything. They cost a few pennies more and take a minute to shrink but well worth the time.
Heat shrinks ARE that much better, in addition to keeping the connection dry and corrossion free, they also provide a secondary bite on the wire in addition to the crimp itself and help keep the wire from vibrating on the connector in rough seas.
Yup I got that one taken care of, but definitely in need of le ole phart attention soon… Cpt Ralph do you have a preferred brand of heat shrink connectors? I’ve been buying assorted packs of them on Amazon but I suspect I’m getting what I paid for…Chinese junk
I fear they are all chines junk. I usually pick up boxes or bags of Ancor brand but been experimenting with a cheaper line of SeaVolt brand with good results. When in doubt, slide some shrink tubing down also. I feel most shrink issues are also with the tool and the heater. Remember, all around heat is required. I have a variety of tools but just can't stand the idea of a torch or heat gun in the bilges. I don't work on many gas boats lately, but hydrogen, methane and other rapid flammables are still in diesel boats. As much as I would like shrink everywhere, I don't use it everywhere. The better nylon connects still work fine. Leave the cheap Homeless Depot vinyl crimps alone. What ever you install or already have in place, inspect often. Boat wiring is not plug (crimp) and forget.
Pacer in Fort Lauderdale sells good Heat shrink connectors of any type that they make. Very good quality and very good prices if in the business. Call them and then send resale certificate. Pacer Group - Marine Wire, Battery Cable and Electrical Parts
I get my crimp connectors from McMaster-Carr and have been happy with them. I also use a crimper that puts an actual dimple-crimp in, not just smashes the tube flat. Not "made" for plastic covered but I find they hold better. Personal preference.
Years ago, I researched the terminals Ancor sells. There was a whole history story about the founder not being able to access quality wiring supplies while in the Caribbean. From what I recall, the terminals were selected because they met Mil-spec, as there was no other category of "Marine Grade". The features required were that there is a primary crimp ferrule that crimps the actual wire and a secondary ferrule that crimps on the insulation, and that any seam be brazed to prevent splitting open during the crimp process. The terminals must be tinned. Another feature is that the insulator must be nylon as the common PVC can split immediately as well as later after becoming brittle from age. Further to the Mil-spec is that appropriate double-crimping tools must be used and that either crimping or soldering can be used for Mil-spec connections, but never both due to work-hardening. Proper crimping is preferred. As I was looking for an economical alternative, I put the Ancor terminal under magnified scrutiny and saw a small logo-type imprint. This was long before Google, Google Image Search, or Google Lens, so it took some obsessive searching, and finally found that the mark was owned by Molex. Rant: My peeve, and it ain't no pet, is when the Klein type crimpers are improperly used. The "dimpler" is specifically for non-insulated terminals and then from the underside so as not to open the split in a ferrule. The "dimpler" makes a hole in insulation increasing corrosion susceptibility. Older crimpers have the non-ins mandrel closer to the fulcrum, which is why that mandrel was commonly used on insulated terminals. Use good double crimping ratchet crimpers and always pull-test a crimp. End of rant.
