For others dreading the process of replacing the steering ram mount plate here are before/during/after photos. Turned out to not be as bad as I expected. I soaked the ram mount bolts with PB Blaster a couple times and let sit during the week before. The ram bolts were double nutted and I was able to unscrew the nuts on all the bolts but one. The one broke below the fixed head, but I was then able to pull the remaing bolt out the bottom. I didn't remove any hydraulic lines or the steering arms, but suspended the unit in place with straps looped over a cross beam that luckily resides above the ram location. The new plate is marine 5052 Aluminum. I use it on underwater parts at work so not concerned about it's life in the ocassional splash here (5086 would be better but is more difficult to source). I used a sawsall to cut the plate to boat bolts below the nut and drove them out of the wood crossmember. Then after removing lots of flaking steel the old plate was used as a template to match drill the new plate. Everything aligned fine going back together. Total work time was 3-1/2 hours, including fabricating the new plate (and lots of cycles in and out of the fishbox wells switching from side to side).
I assume you still have all your digits and not much blood spilled. Hope you don't mind some thoughts; I notice you used synthetic washers between the SS nuts and alloy plate. Any Tef-Gell between the ram and plate? Acorn nuts may save you from cuts or scratches on those exposed bolt ends. Working on your own boat is always rewarding.
The new bolts are all 316 Stainless. There is copper anti-sieze on the bolts where they go through the aluminum. Washers and nuts are Grade 5 Ultra Corrosion Coated steel (Black gloss, there is excess anti-zieze from my fingers on the nuts), intended for wet environments (not the pricey blue coated bolts for submerged use).
That ram is in Horrible shape. I haven't seen one with that much exterior corrossion in decades. I would buy a spare and keep it on board.
Nice repair! I would have added some penetrating epoxy to that block of wood before installing the new plate.
I thought about some coating on the wood beam but figured the builder must have left it that way for a reason as it and the beam in the ceiling above the ram are the only unglassed ones. Leaving it uncoated any moisture can get out, sealing one side might make it hold moisture? It has worked for 30 years. Was definitly solid when I was driving the old bolts out with a drift and 2 lb sledge.
LFS/Go2Marine.com SKU Description Quantity Price Each Amount 204717 Cylinder Boot, K22, HP6006 2 48.84 97.68 Got them in May, don't know if still have stock